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Old 11-03-2012, 08:37 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by mccumath View Post
Chiller worked great with the new pump I implemented into my system this week. Solid 62 degrees coming out of the end. 3/8 refrigerator tubing works slowly with gravity feed, but is much better with some pressure behind it! Thinking about removing or capping the thermometer port. I know how efficient it is, and can easily measure the output temp upon leaving the pipe into the fermentor.

Still very happy with counterflow chiller! Thanks Tiber
Glad to help!
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On tap:
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Primary:
1. Dry Stout 2. Dry Stout 3. Cali Common 4. Cali Common 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none
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About 58 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Imperial Bourbon Barrel Oatmeal Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Oatmeal Blonde
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:57 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by Tiber_Brew View Post
Overall looks good. You might want to shorten up the probe port a bit, so you're not measuring low flow or still fluid pockets. I'm not sure how long the probe is that you have in mind, but make sure it's taking its data from wort that's flowing in the same uniform manner as inside the rest of the chiller. That way you'll get the most accurate and applicable temperature feedback that you're looking for.

Good luck with your build!
Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the shortest probe available from Howe Gauges on ebay, which is 2 1/2" including the threads. I'll mount it so the tip is well into the wort flow of the tee.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:08 PM   #133
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Default Just wondering?

I have seen many of these wort chillers that are 25 feet long and some that are 20 feet long. One question is, does the extra 5 feet make a difference. I am considering building one of these but only have access to 20 or 50 feet length of the copper tubing. I thought I would make 2 of them with the 50 foot tube and sell one, but no one seems interested, even at cost.

So, I was wondering if the extra length is good, maybe an alternative plan would be just as good. I thought I would make 2 10 foot long chillers and leave the copper tubing as one peace. I would take the warm water out at the upper half of the chiller and use new cold water for the lower half of the chiller.

Is there any reason this is a bad idea?

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Old 01-11-2013, 07:15 PM   #134
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Just thought I would update my build:

Installed on my brewing cart with a fabricated mount. Thermometer angled up for better viewing.


Rear view showing water inlet (bottom left) and outlet (upper right). Extended them to reduce the risk of dripping on the pump mounted on the lower shelf.


Final copper configuration.

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Old 01-11-2013, 07:42 PM   #135
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I will be using my new CFC tomorrow for the second time. Will get pix of my setup and post them.

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Old 01-11-2013, 10:01 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raymadigan View Post
I have seen many of these wort chillers that are 25 feet long and some that are 20 feet long. One question is, does the extra 5 feet make a difference. I am considering building one of these but only have access to 20 or 50 feet length of the copper tubing. I thought I would make 2 of them with the 50 foot tube and sell one, but no one seems interested, even at cost.

So, I was wondering if the extra length is good, maybe an alternative plan would be just as good. I thought I would make 2 10 foot long chillers and leave the copper tubing as one peace. I would take the warm water out at the upper half of the chiller and use new cold water for the lower half of the chiller.

Is there any reason this is a bad idea?
What is your tap water temperature in the summer? Winter?

Also, will you be pumping wort, or gravity fed?
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On tap:
1. Porter 2. Kentucky Common 3. IPA 4. Pils 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Dry Stout 2. Dry Stout 3. Cali Common 4. Cali Common 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none
Bottled:
About 58 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Imperial Bourbon Barrel Oatmeal Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Oatmeal Blonde
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:02 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raouliii View Post
Just thought I would update my build:

Installed on my brewing cart with a fabricated mount. Thermometer angled up for better viewing.


Rear view showing water inlet (bottom left) and outlet (upper right). Extended them to reduce the risk of dripping on the pump mounted on the lower shelf.


Final copper configuration.
Nice work!
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On tap:
1. Porter 2. Kentucky Common 3. IPA 4. Pils 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Dry Stout 2. Dry Stout 3. Cali Common 4. Cali Common 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none
Bottled:
About 58 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Imperial Bourbon Barrel Oatmeal Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Oatmeal Blonde
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:39 PM   #138
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I don't know what it is in the summer, it isn't real cold. In the winter time, a minute ago, it is 50 F.

I want to be able to gravity feed. I have arthritis in both hands and can't lift very high.

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Old 01-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raymadigan View Post
I don't know what it is in the summer, it isn't real cold. In the winter time, a minute ago, it is 50 F.

I want to be able to gravity feed. I have arthritis in both hands and can't lift very high.
50F will give you some room to work with, but if it's much warmer in the summer, you're going to want that extra length of heat exchange in your chiller. I'd recommend using at least the 25' length, build two of them with the 50' stock, and try to sell the extra one on the HBT classifieds.

If you can't or don't want to lift your kettle to gravity feed, I'd suggest getting a wort pump. They're a worthy investment if you brew even semi-often.
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On tap:
1. Porter 2. Kentucky Common 3. IPA 4. Pils 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Dry Stout 2. Dry Stout 3. Cali Common 4. Cali Common 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none
Bottled:
About 58 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Imperial Bourbon Barrel Oatmeal Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Oatmeal Blonde
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:33 PM   #140
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Does it make a difference and what "type" copper does everyone use ? What I mean by this is you have "types" L, K, M, ACR tubing etc.... As a hvac guy I know the differences between the types and wall thicknesses but what does this build call for ?

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