Thanks you Flyguy , been preparing to go all-grain and this will speed the process ! Im going to out today and buying all the parts and building it tonight .
Thanks !
The Pol- That shelving unit you bought, is that what you use for your 3-tier system? Do you run your lines around the shelves or through them? It looks like it would be fairly easy to drill a couple small holes to run the lines straight through the shelves since they are made of MDF. Also, did that shelving unit come with wheels or did you have to add them? If so, what kind of wheels did you get to fit onto the legs of the shelf?
I had already drawn my three tier system out and was going to use wood but this seems much easier and less time consuming considering my construction abilities are on the low. I also like the fact that it can come apart easily and be taken on the road for whatever reason if I wanted to.
FlyGuy- Are these the same exact parts you can use to install a bulkhead onto a stainless steel brew kettle? I didn't know if any of them had to be different for temperature purposes.
Last edited by CollinsBrew; 03-22-2007 at 07:41 PM.
Are these the same exact parts you can use to install a bulkhead onto a stainless steel brew kettle? I didn't know if any of them had to be different for temperature purposes.
No, I think for a boil kettle, you would want to use parts that withstand the higher temps -- particularly the o-rings. They should be silicone in a boil kettle.
Also, the bulkhead has to be a bit different because you don't have the depth of a cooler wall to go through. On a kettle, therefore, you should actually need FEWER parts. That is my next project (once I locate a keg). I actually bought the proper silicone o-rings already, and I will design a bulkhead to fit the keg once I have a keg in hand. The basic design will be similar, though, to the cooler.
Thanks Flyguy... we used this design on our 48 quart Coleman Xtreme conversion.
For the most part, it worked, but with some slight modifications, including a longer nipple (heh... I said nipple) and some flat rubber washers to stave off some leaks.
Also.. anyone having a hard time finding stainless washers should check with Ace Hardware. That's what the guys at the Depot told me... LOL .. and sure enough, they were there.
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I figured that about the o-rings. Would I need to just find a smaller nipple to put through the kettle? That would be easiest I guess but wouldn't using more of the SS washers work the same with a kettle as with the cooler/mash tun to make a tight fit?
Yes, you should be able to find a smaller nipple, and then elminate the washers on the outside. I used those only to tighten up the fit of the bulkhead. Just use as many or as few washers as you need.
You might also want to consider using 1/2" components instead of 3/8". They might be more stable on a kettle.
Does the external o-ring on your setup acutally make a seal? I have a Gott cooler, and it was manufactured a little different. There open space in the hole between the inside and the outside of the cooler. I was thinking of filling it with plumbers putty. I question whether an o-ring in my configuration would actually trap any liquid that is leaking around the brass nipple.
I bought a Gott cooler as well for my build. Assembled everything, filled it with water and have a small leak. Looks like its coming from behind the washers. Any ideas what could be done to seal up the leak? I was thinking about maybe just putting a bead of silicone around the washers on the front???
The sealing should probably be accomplished on the inside. This will prevent wort getting into the gap between the inner and outer plastic walls. A good mechanic would diagnose and rectify the fit up issues. I, on the other hand use a lot of RTV.
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