Electric Brewing Supply 30A BCS Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > building my first MLT
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 12-13-2009, 05:45 PM   #1
400d
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 584
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default building my first MLT

ok, I have a 30 quarts cooler that I want to convert to MLT. This cooler doesn't have a factory made valve, so I have to drill it, and this is my biggest concern.

It seems to me that it has double walls, and if this is true, than I believe it's going to be very difficult to make it leak-proof...

my first question: is it worth to do it with only 30 quarts cooler ( I make only 5 gallon batches), and my second question is, how to do it without destroying the cooler

thank you all!

__________________
Brew me a river...
400d is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-13-2009, 05:47 PM   #2
klyph
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 1,809
Liked 38 Times on 34 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

How thick are the walls? As long as they're stiff enough, you should be able to get the gasket to clamp down on the inside wall and make a seal. That's the critical point, where the spigot seals against the inner wall.

__________________
10 gallon electric system
Stovetop 110v single vessel 5 gallon system

Primary: saison
Secondary: nada
Conditioning: macaroon stout
Drinking: store bought
klyph is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-13-2009, 05:47 PM   #3
MultumInParvo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 791
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts

Default

A 30 quart cooler will work well for all but rather big beers. As for the double walls, how thick are they?

I drilled a cooler since it didn't have any valve. It was double walled, but they were close together at the point where I drilled. I just simply pinched them together when I was tightening, and there is no leaking.

__________________
MultumInParvo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-13-2009, 05:48 PM   #4
MultumInParvo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 791
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts

Default

Oh, and here is the page I was talking about: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-...-needs-123585/

__________________
MultumInParvo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-13-2009, 06:18 PM   #5
400d
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 584
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by klyph View Post
How thick are the walls? As long as they're stiff enough, you should be able to get the gasket to clamp down on the inside wall and make a seal. That's the critical point, where the spigot seals against the inner wall.
two seperate plastic walls that are probably 3 milimeters thick. between them, I'm afraid there might be some insulating material, but I'm not sure.... the space between the walls is approx. 0,25 inch wide....
__________________
Brew me a river...
400d is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-13-2009, 06:27 PM   #6
mitch171
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Finger Lakes, NY
Posts: 512
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts

Default

Another option is to not drill a hole for a valve. I just made a copper tube that comes off my manifold that goes above the water level. I then forces braided vinal hose on it while it was heated up. During the mash the hose and copper tube fold on top of the grain. When I want to take the wort off I just get a syphon going and all is well. I have done this for 3 batches with no problem, one of the batches being a pumpking ale.

__________________
mitch171 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-14-2009, 02:16 AM   #7
klyph
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 1,809
Liked 38 Times on 34 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

I don't see the problem. You might have to get a slightly longer spigot piece, but other than that it should work.

__________________
10 gallon electric system
Stovetop 110v single vessel 5 gallon system

Primary: saison
Secondary: nada
Conditioning: macaroon stout
Drinking: store bought
klyph is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-14-2009, 02:20 AM   #8
BA_from_GA
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 462
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

you could always get some food-grad silicone adhesive and seal your inside fender washer against the cooler wall with it. Just a thought.

Good luck, and enjoy the process, I just finished my MLT today.

__________________

brewing lots, rather not keep it all updated here


inhbc.org

BA_from_GA is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-14-2009, 02:48 AM   #9
Wade E
Beer Buster
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Wade E's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Middlebury, Ct.
Posts: 881
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts

Default

Most coolers are dble walled. if its under 5/8" thick all together where the fitting goes then a normal cooler fitting will work, if its more but not more then 1 1/4" then you need the extended version fitting, heres a link to a place to get either.
http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop1.html

__________________
Brewing
Wade E is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-14-2009, 03:09 AM   #10
Ohio-Ed
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Ohio-Ed's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,072
Liked 19 Times on 18 Posts

Default

If there is a gap between the inside and outside, and you try to fit a bulkhead through both I think you will have problems. Over time, as you open and close the valve on the end of the bulkhead, unless it is solid it is going to "wiggle" and you will risk leaks.
I read a thread here sometime back about cutting the outside plastic and insulation larger than the inside plastic. Then mount your bulkhead to the inside plastic so there is no "wiggle". I think the thread I read also mentioned adding another layer of plastic to the exterior of the inside plastic to increase the structural integrity.

Good Luck
Ed

__________________
Ohio-Ed is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need Help Building a CD BleedsDogFish General Chit Chat 1 12-12-2008 09:46 PM
Building a Bar bconsidi Equipment/Sanitation 2 09-03-2008 05:19 AM
building AG Set-up??? Getnit All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 13 12-15-2007 03:04 PM
Building a Wet Bar Lepoc2635 DIY Projects 9 07-27-2007 10:03 PM
Building my first MLT Turkeyfoot Jr. Equipment/Sanitation 8 07-17-2007 06:05 PM