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Old 05-08-2010, 03:44 AM   #21
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I sure hope you have a sprayer. Laying a coat of either stain or pain will sure be a chore for that number of units. They look great, makes me (almost) want to tackle my lumber pile.

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Old 05-08-2010, 04:43 AM   #22
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I would just put a poly on them "au natural". Stain doesn't look the best on pine (it blotches without a conditioner) - analine dye is the best for porous woods like pine and fir.

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Old 05-08-2010, 05:15 AM   #23
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Nice work!

I would recommend a penetrating oil. Danish oil or Penofin (using it on some reclaimed cedar for my deck). Nothing will ever peel off. Just add another coat if you ever feel the need. Maybe even try mineral oil?

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Old 05-08-2010, 07:21 AM   #24
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Will the Danish oil, or other oils, require a polyurethane too? I usually just stain wood, but this is the first time I've ever built anything out of pine that wasn't going to be painted. And is the oil really less susceptible to blotting on pine as opposed to stain?

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Old 05-08-2010, 07:30 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by dummkauf View Post
Will the Danish oil, or other oils, require a polyurethane too? I usually just stain wood, but this is the first time I've ever built anything out of pine that wasn't going to be painted. And is the oil really less susceptible to blotting on pine as opposed to stain?
Oil is very forgiving in my experience. It looks quite natural but is well protected. You will not need or want a topcoat. The oil will impede the adhesion of a top coat. Try some samples. Linseed oil may be another option.
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Old 05-08-2010, 07:44 AM   #26
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Thanks for the info. I'm thinking of taking the stain I picked up tonight back and grabbing some danish oil now.

I was googling the linseed oil and that seems to take way longer to apply the coats and supposedly doesn't protect as well as the danish oil, so I'm thinking the Danish oil might be the way to go....plus I've never used it before so it would be nice to try something new too

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Old 05-08-2010, 07:56 AM   #27
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Thanks for the info. I'm thinking of taking the stain I picked up tonight back and grabbing some danish oil now.

I was googling the linseed oil and that seems to take way longer to apply the coats and supposedly doesn't protect as well as the danish oil, so I'm thinking the Danish oil might be the way to go....plus I've never used it before so it would be nice to try something new too
From my experience, you wont be sorry with Danish oil. It is a bit pricey though. I think it will make the cedar pop. They may end up too pretty to put beer bottles in...carefull!

edit: do some samples
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Old 05-08-2010, 08:09 AM   #28
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Looking online it looks like it's $5-$10 per pint. Any idea how many pints I would need for 9 boxes?

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Old 05-08-2010, 08:31 AM   #29
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Looking online it looks like it's $5-$10 per pint. Any idea how many pints I would need for 9 boxes?
I would be guessing at the amount required. I have always bought it in a quart can. Last time it was less than $10 per quart. Just at the local hardware store. Cant remember the brand.
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Old 05-08-2010, 10:54 PM   #30
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I used danish oil on a sofa table I made a couple years ago. Turned out just fine and still going strong. You will probably need just the full pint to do all those cases for 1 application.

Keep in mind the oil will only make a nice surface pop. Won't do much for end grain and rough/unsanded surfaces. I think I read you were sanding these right?

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* My Bar Build
8-Paws Brewing Co.
On tap:
. SN Tumbler Clone
. Nierra Sevada
Secondary:
Primary:
. SN Tumbler Clone 10g
. Sycamore Oatmeal Porter 10g
. Nierra Sevada 10g
On Deck:
.
Kegged:
.

Being a perfectionist does not make one perfect.
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