OG Discrepancy Question

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ltcolchaz

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I just brewed up a recipe for a 'light' ale that included 4 lb Liquid Malt Extract, 2 lb Corn Syrup, and 1oz of Liberty Hops. There were no grains.

My post cooling hydrometer reading was 1.072, vice the recipe's expected 1.041.

Why would the OG reading be so high/off...in other words, what the heck did I do wrong?

:confused:

Chuck
 
My guess is either you didn't add enough "top off" water to get to your target (presumably 5 gallons), or you somehow gathered a sample containing concentrated wort before the wort dissolved completely in the water.

PS. Sometimes the gallon markers on fermenting buckets are off a little bit!
 
From "Brew Your Own"

Brew Your Own said:
Dear Mr. Wizard,
What’s the best way to take an accurate original specific gravity reading? I use a sampling thief to collect a wort sample from my carboy before pitching. The readings are different depending on how long the wort settles before measuring and how deep into the carboy I dip to collect the sample. Is this caused by picking up different amounts of sediment in the samples? Should the sample come from wort that is relatively free of sediment? Should specific gravity be measured before pitching?

Jack Van Overloop
Grand Rapids, Michigan

Mr. Wizard replies:
This question brings up some issues that I have experienced over the years and I have been somewhat surprised by my observations. I usually collect a wort sample from a sample valve placed in-line between the wort cooler and the fermenter. I do this because I want to know my wort density prior to pitching, since liquid yeast will lower the wort gravity slightly by diluting the wort sugars with the liquid in the starter. With that said, your method of sampling from the fermenter should work fine, as long as you take your sample before fermentation begins. Just keep in mind that the wort gravity is a bit higher before adding the yeast. This is only of importance if you are strictly tracking your brewhouse efficiency. Otherwise, the difference in gravity is trivial.

There are some oddities about gravity checks that I want to point out. But before I drift too far off, I want to point out one key piece of information for extract brewers — be diligent about mixing your wort and any topping-up water prior to checking your specific gravity. If the wort is not thoroughly mixed, the likelihood of having stratification in the wort gravity is very high. In fact, it’s almost a guarantee!

Let’s assume, however — for the sake of argument — you are an all-grain brewer and that the wort is thoroughly mixed. The puzzling part about this scenario is that the wort gravity changes depending on the depth of the sample. If you had pitched, I’d suspect that your yeast starter not being completely mixed in the wort was the culprit, especially if you used a large-volume starter. Liquids of varying density are more difficult to thoroughly mix than one would guess. The only other thing that could cause this difference is temperature variation, as temperature affects liquid density and the hydrometer reading. Temperature stratification in liquids is very common. If you are not measuring the temperature of your sample along with the specific gravity, you should.

I usually add some water after wort boiling to adjust gravity and want to know the wort gravity after the water addition to confirm that my calculations and water addition were done correctly. I collect multiple samples during the course of wort cooling and the samples do vary slightly from beginning to end. The variation is typically between 0.1–0.2° Plato or about 0.0004–0.0008 specific gravity units. The only conclusion that makes any sense to me is that the top-up water is not evenly distributed in the wort, even after pumping it to a whirlpool and allowing it to rest before cooling to allow the trub to settle.

Personally, I feel the best place to sample wort is from the kettle, immediately after boiling. At this stage, the wort is well mixed and nothing has been added, such as water for top-up or yeast. The wort gravity combined with wort volume is used to calculate brewhouse efficiency and this is the place to collect the data. Although suspended solids, such as trub and hop particles, should not affect the hydrometer reading — since hydrometers measure dissolved solids — I collect a sample and first allow the solids to settle, then transfer clear wort to my hydrometer test container.

This brings up the wonderful and exciting topic of hydrometers. For starters, don’t ever assume any measuring instrument is properly calibrated. A hydrometer should indicate that distilled water has a specific gravity of 1.000 (a Plato hydrometer should read 0.00°) at the temperature for which the hydrometer is calibrated. Most laboratory-type hydrometers read true at 68° F (20° C) and many homebrew hydrometers read true at 60° F. In most cases, the sample is at some other temperature and the hydrometer reading must be adjusted up if the sample is warmer than the hydrometer temperature calibration or adjusted down if the sample is cooler than this temperature.

This trivial issue gets nasty when you step back and carefully look at the problem. For example, I have a sample of wort and plunk a hydrometer in it and the reading is 12.5° Plato. Having a good idea the sample is warmer than room temperature (68° F in my chilly, imaginary room) I grab a floating thermometer from the bench and plunk it into my wort sample and determine that the wort temperature is 78° F. I can go to a table and determine that I need to add about 0.5° Plato to my reading. No problem, right? Wrong. When I put the thermometer in the wort I changed the wort temperature, since the large floating thermometer was cooler than the wort sample.

One way to get around this problem is to measure the gravity and the temperature at the same time. You can do this with a separate hydrometer and thermometer or you can buy a hydrometer with a built-in thermometer. These little guys are nice and range in price from about $15 up to $160. I like accuracy and have some of the expensive models. These are really cool because they are big and you need two. They also set you back $320 if you want to measure both wort and beer. The low end measures 0–14° Plato and the upper end measures 12–26° Plato.

Last year, the lower-end hydrometer was broken (not by me!). I ordered a replacement. It came in a few days and we were back in business “spindling” beer samples — so we thought.

A few months later, it was obvious that something was amiss and our beers were not fermenting as dry as they once did. After wasting a lot of time investigating everything but the bloody hydrometer, I decided to check it and discovered that it was not reading true. I couldn’t believe that this expensive, impressive-looking instrument was not properly calibrated.

I called the supplier and was assured that this had never before happened and was sent another instrument. To my amazement, this one was worse than the first. I called back again and was told that this just couldn’t be true. After all, these expensive items are purchased by the world’s largest brewery and they had never had any problem. I politely suggested that if they didn’t fix their quality problems, the company I work for would not be buying these units in the future. Finally, I was sent a third. This particular unit was far worse than the first two. In the end I resolved the problem by simply subtracting the error since hydrometers have a linear scale.

The moral of this story is that instruments cannot be trusted for accuracy, no matter their price. The corollary is that most things assumed to homogenous are not and multiple samples are usually required to get a reliable estimate of the average.
 
Thanks guys...I am betting it was the lack of top off. I wasn't thinking when I took the liquid...before I topped off the fermenter. DOH!

CHUCK
 
No worries! You are well ahead of the typical beginning brewer in the fact that you actually used your hydrometer correctly...and it saved you from making a big mistake!
 
In this same vein, I have read about taking hydrometer samples during fermentation to determine if the process is done (thus far I have only just watched the airlock activity). What is the best way to accomplish this, or tool to accomplish it with?
 
In this same vein, I have read about taking hydrometer samples during fermentation to determine if the process is done (thus far I have only just watched the airlock activity). What is the best way to accomplish this, or tool to accomplish it with?
I use a turkey baster (sanitized of course!). I pop the stopper off the carboy, place it in a dish of star-san while I use the baster to extract about a half-cup of beer. Then the stopper goes back on. Takes less than 30 seconds. This is assuming that I feel the need to do a check.

I usually leave the beer in primary for 3 to 4 weeks, so there's really no point (for me) in taking readings along the way. One at the end is enough.
 
It's a pretty common issue for ANYONE topping off with water in the fermenter (and that includes partial mashes, extract or all grain revcipes) to have an error in reading the OG...In fact, it is actually nearly impossible to mix the wort and the top off water in a way to get an accurate OG reading...

Brewers get a low reading if they get more of the top off water than the wort, conversely they get a higher number if they grabbed more of the extract than the top off water in their sample.

When I am doing an extract with grain recipe I make sure to stir for a minimum of 5 minutes (whipping up a froth to aerate as well) before I draw a grav sample and pitch my yeast....It really is an effort to integrate the wort with the top off water...This is a fairly common new brewer issue we get on here...unless you under or over topped off or the final volume for the kit was 5 gallons and you topped off to 5.5, then the issue, sorry to say, is "operator error"

More than likely your true OG is really what it's supposed to be. And it will mix itself fine during fermentation.
 
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