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Old 08-29-2008, 08:29 PM   #21
Rezilynt
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Orfy, will this work? I've bastardized and added suggestions to a combination of instructions from my 2 LHBS: Feel free to delete if you do not think they will help.

1. Clean and sanitize all equipment being used the day of brewing. Namely, the primary fermenter (6 gallon carboy or food grade plastic bucket), airlocks and stoppers. Do this by allowing them to soak in a light bleach water solution for 20-30 minutes (do it in the bathtub). Rinse well and sanitize with an Iodophor solution (food grade Iodine…follow directions on bottle). Do not rinse, allow to air dry.

2. Put 2 gallons of clean, cold water in the primary fermenter, cover and set aside.

3. Put 2 gallons of water in the brew kettle and bring to a boil.

4. Remove from the heat and add 3 pounds of unhopped malt extract. Stir well to dissolve.

5. Return to the heat and bring slowly to a boil (watch carefully for a boil over…avoid this mess…keep an eye on it!).

6. Boil for 30 minutes, remove from heat and add the can of hopped maltextract. stir well to dissolve.

7. Shut off heat and begin to cool your wort as soon as possible in a sink or tub of cold water and/or ice.. When wort is about 75 degrees, or when wort is cool enough to mix with water to reach about 75 degrees, pour and strain the wort into your primary fermenter.

8. Pour the wort from the brew kettle into the primary fermenter that has 2 gallons of cold water waiting. Top the fermenter up to 5 gallons with clean cold water and cover immediately. When pouring the wort into the primary, aerate as much as possible. You can accomplish this by dipping a sanitized container such as a measuring cup into the wort
and pouring back into the wort. You can aslo por through a fine strainer. Create as much foam and bubbles as you can for abou ten minutes.

9. At this point, take a Hydrometer reading of the Specific Gravity by pouring a sample of the wort into the hydrometer jar and float the hydrometer in the sample. Take the reading where the level of your wort intersects on the specific gravity scale of the hydrometer. Write this reading down in your brewing notes. Do NOT return the sample of wort to
the fermenter.

10. Rehydrate the dried yeast (located under the lid of the can) in 1 cup of 80-degree, clean water for 15 Double check your temperature to be sure it is not above 80 degrees and take a hydrometer reading. Now pitch the contents of the yeast pack into the primary fermenter, cover, set-up the sanitized air lock and stopper assembly, and place the primary where it will remain around 68 degrees during fermentation.

11. At this point, your work is done for the day. Clean and sanitize your equipment and store it for the next time, sit back and watch the show.

12. Fermentation may take between 8-72 hours to begin…have patience, the yeast is going through it’s respiration cycle. Once fermentation begins, it will take approximately 5-7 days for it to complete. After 5 and 6 days take hydrometer readings. If no perceptible change in gravity occurs, fermentation is complete. If the gravity keeps reducing, wait. If you are unsure wait one more day. If you are doing a two-stage fermentation, now is the time to transfer your beer to a secondary fermenter (normally a 5 gallon glass carboy). When the transfer is complete, place the stopper and airlock in the fermenter and allow your beer to settle for 5-6 days. For better taste, you may also elect to let it sit longer. You can also choose to let your beer
sit in the primary or, if you are in a hurry you may now bottle.

13. Racking help: Insure that your secondary fermenter and “racking” assembly, (cane and tubing) have been cleaned and sanitized. If you are not using an Auto-Siphon: to get your siphon going, fill the tubing and racking cane with water. Place your thumb over the hose end, trapping the water. Insert the racking cane into the primary fermenter, which will be on the countertop and run the water off into a cup or the sink. The beer will follow the water and when it does, place the tubing
all the way to the bottom of the secondary fermenter, which will be on the floor. Avoid splashing the beer.

14. Bottling:
5 gallons of beer is 640 ounces. This requires 54-12 oz. bottles, 40-16 oz. bottles or 29-22 oz. bottles or any desired combination. Use Non-screw bottles only. Clean and sanitize them along with a matching number of caps.

15. Repeat step #9 to attain the Final Gravity reading. Subtract this reading from the Original Gravity reading and multiply by 105, this will give you the Alcohol by weight (ABW) of your beer. Multiply this number by 1.25 to attain the Alcohol of Volume (ABV).

16. In a sauce pan, bring 1 pint of water to a boil and add ¾ cup of corn sugar or 1 1/4 cups of dry malt extract (not table sugar). Boil for 3 minutes. Pour this mixture into your clean, sanitized bottling bucket.

17. Now repeat the siphoning process of your beer, from the secondary fermenter into the bottling bucket. The bottling sugar (syrup) will mix evenly throughout the beer and give you consistent carbonation in each bottle.

18. Bottle and cap immediately using the siphoning method, allowing 1-1 ½” of air space in each bottle. Again, avoid splashing.

19. Store the bottled beer at room temperature, preferably in a dark area, for 10 - 21 (Suggested) days and allow to carbonate. Cool and drink!

Tips and fine-tuning:
- Try to boil and cool the largest possible volume you can manage.
- Varying the fermentation temperature will result in different
flavors. fermentinging warm (up to 72 degrees) will produce fruity,
estery qualities.
-An LCD stick-on thermometer will allow you to monitor fermentation temperatures.
-Always be sure to sanitize every piece of brewing equipment after your brew session.

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Last edited by Rezilynt; 08-29-2008 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Formatting issue
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Old 08-29-2008, 08:58 PM   #22
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Thank you Rezilynt
looks good to me.

Comments from others please.
I don't do kits or extract.

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Old 08-29-2008, 09:19 PM   #23
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You are welcome. I would only use this for a pre-hopped canned kit though.

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Old 08-29-2008, 09:44 PM   #24
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"14. Bottling:
5 gallons of beer is 640 ounces. This requires 54-12 oz. bottles, 40-16 oz. bottles or 29-22 oz. bottles or any desired combination. Use Non-screw bottles only. Clean and sanitize them along with a matching number of caps."

Does this mean no P.E.T. bottles?

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Old 08-29-2008, 09:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBHause View Post
"14. Bottling:
5 gallons of beer is 640 ounces. This requires 54-12 oz. bottles, 40-16 oz. bottles or 29-22 oz. bottles or any desired combination. Use Non-screw bottles only. Clean and sanitize them along with a matching number of caps."

Does this mean no P.E.T. bottles?
Nope, sorry, just didn't think of them.
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Old 08-29-2008, 09:49 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezilynt View Post
Nope, sorry, just didn't think of them.
No worries, just making sure
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Old 08-30-2008, 04:15 AM   #27
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Austin Homebrew Supply kits instructions seem to be pretty good. I could scan one and post it for you all to see if you want.

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Old 10-15-2009, 03:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
16. In a sauce pan, bring 1 pint of water to a boil and add ¾ cup of corn sugar or 1 1/4 cups of dry malt extract (not table sugar). Boil for 3 minutes. Pour this mixture into your clean, sanitized bottling bucket.
Hi everybody! First post so excuse the noobness.

Is this step absolutely necessary? The bottling bucket part, I should say. Can I just add the corn sugar/DME mixture straight to the primary? Why is this step (bottling bucket) needed anyway? For clarity of the brew?

Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:41 AM   #29
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Because the primary will be full of gunk (Trub) which you do not want in the bottles.

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Old 10-15-2009, 03:09 PM   #30
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hi all, my first post.

I only recently discovered that home brewing is doable. Unfortunately I live in Cyprus and there are no home brew stores. In addition, few people ship and its very expensive.

Thankfully I found a UK store and Coopers Micro Brewery is on its way to me. It looks much superior than Mr. Beer. There is a hydrometer, carbonation drops (instead of sugar) and a themometer on the fermenter. Anyone have any experience with Coopers?

Anyway, Coopers manual says 4-7 days fermentation and 7 days in bottle. So I guess they too follow the quick make theory.

I'm glad I found such great info on the net. I will follow your advise and ferment for 14 days and bottle for 14 days before trying it.

My only concern is that during the day, the temperature is around 32 degrees celcius.... But I am wondering, will the air temperature and the fermenter have similar temp? From what I read the fermenter will have higher temp than the air temp? Is that right? Any way I can cool down? I've been told I can try wet towels on the fermenter....

Sophocles

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