Having Trouble Hitting Temps

Okay, I'm new to brewing and have done four all grain brews in about a month and a half (go big or go home, right?)

I'm using a half barrel keg with an internal 5500W element for a HLT. I have a welded coupling with a screw in thermometer about 4" above the element. I'm mashing in a 10 gallon cooler.

So far, every time I heat my strike water up to my calculated strike temp, let it sit for 20 minutes or so to equalize, and fill my mash tun I hit about 10 degrees low. I swapped out thermometers and calibrated the new one at boiling and freezing, and still got the same results.

My first batch mashed at about 145 for 15 minutes until I got my temp up.

My last three mashes I've played a game of tag between very hot water and the garden hose trying to get my strike temp.

Has anyone had similar problems? Am I missing something obvious?

By the way, that first beer that had a low temp was still delicious, probably because it was mine

If your mash tun is not preheated, it will absorb a lot of the strike heat and your resulting temp will drop. Two options: preheat the tun with hot tap water while the strike water is coming up to temp, or overheat your strike water to compensate for the drop.

I used to fill my mash tun about half full with hot tap water and then rock it occasionally to pre-heat. This worked fine but I always had several gallons of water to disgard after. Through trial and error I found that if I heated my strike water to about 8 degrees higher than the calculator suggested, my mash was right on temp. Though 8 degrees works for my set up, you may have to experiment with yours.

Sounds to me like the answer to your question is contained in your question: your mash tun and grains absorb enough heat to drop your temp by 10º. I suggest that you take your target mash temp, add 10, and make that your strike water temp.

BTW, you're doing way better than me. I haven't been able to figure out my "regular" temperature drop - I think it's because I brew outdoors and the ambient air temperature has been all over the map.

It's not insulated, but I usually fill to 13 gallons so the water seems to hold heat pretty well. I don't really see a lot of temp drop on the dial.

I haven't tried stirring. The keg still has the sankey top so I'll have to use a long, skinny spoon.

My average calculated strike temp is around 163-167 for a mash temp of 152 or so of anywhere from 2.5-5 gallons.

I think stirring might help a lot. If I let a few gallons run out on the ground before I fill the cooler it seems to help get a higher temp. I may just sit out there and do it over and over and maybe get some sort of calibration.

buildingmotive said:

It's not insulated, but I usually fill to 13 gallons so the water seems to hold heat pretty well. I don't really see a lot of temp drop on the dial.

I haven't tried stirring. The keg still has the sankey top so I'll have to use a long, skinny spoon.

My average calculated strike temp is around 163-167 for a mash temp of 152 or so of anywhere from 2.5-5 gallons.

I think stirring might help a lot. If I let a few gallons run out on the ground before I fill the cooler it seems to help get a higher temp. I may just sit out there and do it over and over and maybe get some sort of calibration.

Click to expand...

Oh, I see now. You're using the Sanke keg as a hot liquor tank and mashing in a cooler. I thought from your first post that you were mashing in the keggle. Definitely pre-heat the cooler with some 190-200*F water for 10 min (then dump it) before adding the strike water. For a typical 5 gallon double batch sparge, your looking at around 3.5 gallons in the neighborhood of 168*F for a 153*F mash.

I'd suggest that you cut the top off that keg. It will be much easier to use. Do any of your buddies have a plasma cutter (easiest way)? If not , an angle grinder will do it. You'll probably burn through a few wheels.

I've noticed that the water under the element doesn't heat unless its boiling. I brought some water to 190 using my element and then opened the valve and the first 1/2 gallon was pretty cool to the touch.

I would skip the 20 minute stabilizing step and try stirring while you heat the water. I use a pump to recerc for the last few degrees as I heat the strike water.

BigFloyd said:

I'd suggest that you cut the top off that keg. It will be much easier to use. Do any of your buddies have a plasma cutter (easiest way)? If not , an angle grinder will do it. You'll probably burn through a few wheels.

Click to expand...

I can't cut the top off. I use it as a boiler for direct steam injection heating for cereal mashes. My fitting clamps to the top.

Sudstud said:

I've noticed that the water under the element doesn't heat unless its boiling. I brought some water to 190 using my element and then opened the valve and the first 1/2 gallon was pretty cool to the touch.

I would skip the 20 minute stabilizing step and try stirring while you heat the water. I use a pump to recerc for the last few degrees as I heat the strike water.

Click to expand...

I didn't think about the water under the element not heating but that makes sense. That might be why I have to run a gallon or so out before I get the temp I need. I could probably use a piece of PVC or something to stir it as long as I don't touch the element.

Sudstud said:

I would skip the 20 minute stabilizing step and try stirring while you heat the water.

Click to expand...

Worked like a charm. Heated to temp, and then stirred. Temp dropped about 4 degrees for 13 gallons after I stirred. Once I reheated and had a stable temp I pulled off a three step roggenbier mash hitting protein, beta, and alpha rests perfectly.

Looks like it's game on with no fear!

Thanks a lot for all the help everyone.