cold crashing
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chickypad
lupulin shift victim
Just my opinion, but if the only reason you're transferring to the carboy is to cold crash I would just go straight to the keg. I do this with all my beers that I'm not planning to age. I put them in the keezer at 40 deg and hook up the gas. A week later I draw off the first pint or so of junk then they are crystal clear. Note that I leave everything in the primary for 3-4 wks though, so they are already quite clear going into the keg even without crashing. If dry hopping I do that with a bag in the keg, and leave it at room temp for a week before it goes in the keezer.
I agree with chickypad's advice in regards to kegging. My gas pressure really varies-I have two different taps with different lenght lines. I overpressure for about 2 days at 20-25PSI while cold crashing. Then I'll set them at 10 PSI for a day or two while pulling samples a couple times per day and adjust as needed. Once carbed properly by mouthfeel, I'll let it age without touching anything for at least 10 days. Just my process, maybe not the right way buy, it has worked every time.
chickypad
lupulin shift victim
Yep, everyone does this a little different. I tried force carbing at higher pressures when I first started kegging but found I had a lot of issues with foaming and line balance. Now I just hook up the gas to the pressure needed to achieve the volumes of CO2 that I want and leave it there for 1-2 wks. This works fine for me since I am essentially using the keg as a secondary and the beers need a little extra time anyway before drinking. I also like not having to keep adjusting the pressure, I will typically have up to 4-5 kegs in different stages of aging/dispensing on the same manifold (I only have one regulator so all the beers need to be at the same pressure).
I usually pick about 2.5 volumes. At 40-41 deg the pressure needed for this is about 13 psi.
Here is a link to a handy chart that plots temp and pressure:
http://www.homebrew.com/pdfs/CO2chart.pdf
I usually pick about 2.5 volumes. At 40-41 deg the pressure needed for this is about 13 psi.
Here is a link to a handy chart that plots temp and pressure:
http://www.homebrew.com/pdfs/CO2chart.pdf
Hockeyhunter99
Well-Known Member
i would definately go with 32-40 degrees
If you transfer into a keg to clear, add some gelatin and rack on top of that. Then after 24-48hrs, pour off the first pint and that will help clarity. I've done this with carbed and uncarbed beer in the keg. Both has worked awesome when I wanted that extra clarity after already kegging.
Given I have kegs, I have never cold crashed in a carboy...no reason to. Rack from the primary to the sanitized keg, seal with co2, vent, seal with co2, vent, seal with co2 to a pressure where you are sure the seal will hold. Then use the keg as your secondary/conditioning vehicle. Then, do your cold crash as close to 32 degrees as you can. (In reality, the beer won't freeze until about 28-29 degrees, depending on the alcohol level, but I'm afraid to get too close just in case my temperature is off and due to the cycling range of the fridge.) If you want to hurry the process, you can have gas applied at whatever temperature you need to get the correct psi. After a couple/few days, the crap will be at the bottom and you can draw a couple of yeasty, messy pints off.
An alternative to drawing off pints is to bend the beverage line slightly so that the very bottom of the liquid won't be drawn out. Your gunk will be there. Another alternative is to cut off 1/4-1/2" of the beverage line. Both of these methods (which I've used only on one keg) have the advantage that you won't clog up your beverage line or poppet. (Which I've done on one batch, and that was when I had a bunch of hop gunk.)
After a couple/few days, raise the temperature to proper serving temp and allow your carbonation to continue until its ready.
This, plus using Irish Moss, has really, really cleared up my batches as compared to when I didn't do this.
An alternative to drawing off pints is to bend the beverage line slightly so that the very bottom of the liquid won't be drawn out. Your gunk will be there. Another alternative is to cut off 1/4-1/2" of the beverage line. Both of these methods (which I've used only on one keg) have the advantage that you won't clog up your beverage line or poppet. (Which I've done on one batch, and that was when I had a bunch of hop gunk.)
After a couple/few days, raise the temperature to proper serving temp and allow your carbonation to continue until its ready.
This, plus using Irish Moss, has really, really cleared up my batches as compared to when I didn't do this.
You can usually tell in that it isn't hissing. (Most of my kegs will hold a seal w/o hardly any co2, but on a couple of them I make sure I put keg lube on the rubber gasket and pull up on the lid while I am adding co2.)
I wouldn't go to 40psi, but if your keg is near full (5 gallons), it shouldn't matter much (having 40psi) as there is relatively little gas to be absorbed into a lot of liquid. I usually have the pressure at somewhat more than my target psi, e.g. if my target is 12 psi maybe 20 for the initial seal. As you cool it (the keg), the co2 will be absorbed. After the initial seal I usually will just put the pressure at my target psi. I tried force carbing (quick carb) once and had a mess trying to get the final product at the right pressure and with the right amount of foam.
