Switching to AG. Mash tun?

I have been reading and watching instructions and have noticed many different styles.
I have purchased a 10gal igloo cooler and the ball valve.
The variation seemed to the the false bottom as opposed to just a bazooka screen.
Is there any benefit to either?

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The false bottom allows even and steady flow of strike and sparge water through the grain without channeling. My efficiency improved by 10% when I switched to a false bottom.

Ok. I had heard nothing about the difference until now. Thank you! Also from what I understand flash sparging seems to maintain a better efficiency as opposed to batch sparging. So a false bottom and flash sparge and I am at least in the ballpark?

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I built a copper manifold/false bottom and picked up 10% when I went that route. I batch sparge mostly because fly sparging is a PITA! I got a couple of points when fly sparging, just isn't worth the trouble for me.

Copper manifold false bottom? How do you mean?
I saw some where people had fitted copper pipes with slits on the bottom, is that what you mean?

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scurvymeat said:

Copper manifold false bottom? How do you mean?
I saw some where people had fitted copper pipes with slits on the bottom, is that what you mean?

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Click to expand...

That's what he means.

scurvymeat said:

I have been reading and watching instructions and have noticed many different styles.
I have purchased a 10gal igloo cooler and the ball valve.
The variation seemed to the the false bottom as opposed to just a bazooka screen.
Is there any benefit to either?

Sent from my C6606 using Home Brew mobile app

Click to expand...

I am assuming you bought the 10 gallon vertical cooler.
Be sure to get a 12" diameter false bottom for that...the 11" will leak more grains through.

I'm not sure what flash sparging is...I think you're referring to fly sparging.

With a bazooka tube you'll only want to batch sparge, because the bazooka screen will create channels of water that will unevenly rinse the grain of it's sugars. With a false bottom the hot sparge water will drain more evenly, allowing you to do a much more efficient fly sparge.

Fly sparging takes more time but is the optimum method as far as efficiency is concerned. It's also just way more fun in my opinion.

I recommend a false bottom whether you fly or batch sparge. Some day you might want to fly sparge and at least you'll have that option with a false bottom. The screens are good as a temporary solution IMO. After a few batches they tend to get beat up from mashing in and stiring a lot. Once they get beat up from the mash paddle they tend to create stuck sparges, which means you'll have to go buy another screen. False bottoms will last forever and won't get beat up from the paddle.

I agree with BansheeRider, just get a false bottom from day 1. Though after 20+ 10 gallon brews my bazooka tube still looked brand new so I can't say I had that experience. I do wish I got a false bottom sooner though.

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Alright just ordered the false bottom. I am excited to get all this and do a brew. Thinking 5gal heavy porter. and yes I meant fly not flash, I am unsure why I had the word flash stuck in my head

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bbrammer said:

I batch sparge mostly because fly sparging is a PITA! I got a couple of points when fly sparging, just isn't worth the trouble for me.

Click to expand...

What's so difficult about continuous sparging? I usually multi-tasking while the sparge is running. All one needs to do is to match the mash tun and hot liquor back outflow rates and walk away. Granted, one usually has to go through the process a few times in order to find the best outflow rate setting for the mash tun. However, after that setting is determined, continuous sparging is less work than batch sparging because it is one continuous hands-off process.

Sorry it took so long to get back. Yes, I was referring to copper pipes with slits as my false bottom.