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hendenburg2 · 08-23-2012, 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TyTanium

Are we talking about filtering into to bottling bucket or dry hopping in the fermenter?

If in the fermenter, hop bags work just fine if you don't stuff them. Sure, it's probably not 100%, but still really good and removal is a cinch.

For not getting tons of hops in the bottling bucket, which I what I assumed you were talking about with the double strainers, a hop bag also works when wrapped around your autosiphon or on the output end of the racking tube...either way, it's submerged and thus no pouring and exposing the beer to oxygen.

yeah, you got it right. sorry for the confusion. the method that i came upon was born out a few problems - 1) how to mix in the priming solution without stirring up bottom sediment 2) get around clogging issues while filtering from the submerged end of the racking cane 3) limited equipment. how much of an impact does oxygen have? if you care to reply i'll start a new post so as not to derail this one.

TyTanium · 08-23-2012, 01:46 PM

No need to start a new thread; I think this still fits within the realm of dry-hopping technique.

Oxygen is bad. It's the enemy of finished beer. So anything that involves pouring, spashing, bubbling, etc should be avoided. To answer your questions, here's a pretty common practice:

1) Add boiled & cooled priming solution to sanitized bottling bucket
2) Lots of the hop junk sinks or remains floating on top, so hold autosiphon so the opening is in the middle of the beer; shouldn't be too much gunk suspended.
3) Place a sanitized hop bag on the output end of the racking tubing, placed at the bottom of the bottling bucket (many also put it over input; either way works).
4) Siphon the beer, any junk sucked up gets trapped in the bag. Allow the flow of beer to create a gentle whirlpool in the bottling bucket; this adequately mixes the priming solution
5) As you get near the end, tip the fermenter; you'll start getting more hop junk, but that's what the bag is for.
6) Pull out the bag, allow it to drip out, give it a genltle squeeze if you want and there you have it - primed, hop-free beer.

**FATC1TY** · 08-23-2012, 02:03 PM

I like to dry hop in the keg's actually. Well, I'll do a two part because I'm lacking in patience.

I'll plan to dry hop, and for instance, say I'm doing 2oz of something, same or different, doesn't matter. I'll rack to secondary, and put the pellets in the secondary loose. Leave it be for whatever time period I decide to pull it.

I will rack it to a keg, using a sanitized paint strainer bag to catch any hops still floating around in there, most have settled out.

I will take a fine mesh hop bag, put my other hops in there, seal it up, and suspend the bag from the string using a SS hose clamp on the underside of my pressure relief valve on the underside of the lid. Fits perfectly with no modification. Allows the hops to sit in the beer roughly 1/3 of the way into the beer, without opening or floating around. I'll put the keg in the keezer, and start carbing it while it's cooling, AND it's dry hopping.

I also have a cut diptube, and a screen over it as well, and I've yet to have a green dusty pour from my taps. First pull gets all the junk off the bottom when it cold crashes and is carbed, and after that it's ready to go. No yeast, no hops debris.

Some will claim they get a grassy flavor from hops being in the beer too long, I've yet to experience that, but I love highly hopped beers. You could also pull the bag after a week if you wanted, and still multi-task the whole process a bit quicker if you want without leaving the hops on the beer too long. If you drink it fast enough, the bag will be suspended in the keg above the beer after a certain amount is pulled, and will no longer touch the beer.

hendenburg2 · 08-30-2012, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FATC1TY

I also have a cut diptube, and a screen over it as well, and I've yet to have a green dusty pour from my taps. First pull gets all the junk off the bottom when it cold crashes and is carbed, and after that it's ready to go. No yeast, no hops debris.

what type of screen mesh? fine? how are they measured?

**FATC1TY** · 08-31-2012, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hendenburg2

what type of screen mesh? fine? how are they measured?

Not really what what type. Small round holes. It's not super, super fine. It's similar to what you will find online for a dip tube screen.

Looks really close to this actually, although I didn't get it there.

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_33_82_88&products_id=13 453

Couple that with cutting around a 1/4 inch off the tube, and a fine mesh bag for pellets that is suspended in the keg, I haven't gotten any junk in my glass yet!

Mickeymoose · 09-25-2012, 04:47 PM

I know it was stupid, but I put my hops in after about 20 hours of fermentation in the primary, did i waste them, or did I cause more problems by not waiting till primary fermentation was done?

TyTanium · 09-25-2012, 05:59 PM

Cause more problems? Nope, no harm
Waste them? Not entirely. You'll still get some character. Taste after fermentation.

**tomhen** · 09-26-2012, 12:28 PM

If you are serving out of a corny keg, use a nylon paint strainer bag and add hop pellets to that then tie it off to the down tube with a string long enough to let it drop to the bottom without going all the way so it doesn't clog the tube. You will see a huge hop nose (depending on variety) within days. Keep the beer on dry hops no more than 3 weeks as it will start to make the beer grassy.

Mickeymoose · 09-26-2012, 02:51 PM

Thanks for the replies, at least I didn't screw it up too bad! As far as hopping in the keg, if i don't kick the keg in a couple of weeks, how do you deal with it? i probably will kick my keg in about 6 weeks, will it be grassy by then?

Mickeymoose · 09-26-2012, 02:53 PM

Also, should i pull that ounce of hops after a week and just add another ounce for the remaining two weeks of fermentation?