setting up for 10gal batch

Right now I have 1 10gal pot that I would like to turn into a HLT I'm going to be building a 50-60qt mash ton, so I need a boil pot, I'm assuming that for a 10gal batch I need a pot that is at least 12-15gal any sugestion, Buget is a big factor the cheaper the better.

A keggle us a budget friendly option if you can find one. The keg holds 15.5 gal and when you cut off the top it should be plenty big. I don't have one myself but I know a lot of people use them.

yes thats a though i have too but i don't really have any of the tools to switch it to a pot

Good aluminum pot is always a bargain way to brew. Nice thick ones available online. Just boil water in it before 1st time brewing in it.

You may want to consider a larger mash tun. I recently moved to 10 gallon batches and on my last brew (33 lbs of grain) I had to mash thick and barely got by in my 52 quart tun. If you brew any bigger beers I would recommend a 70 qt mash run.

Thanks for the heads up on the mash ton, I most of the time I brew at least 15lbs of grain for 5gal I like dark browns to stouts. The one thing im wondering is that if I did a 5gal batch in a 70qt mash ton would I louse temperate due to the large head space

I do ten gallon batches on occasion,I use a ten gallon cooler and 15 gallon brew pot without any problems.I don't think I could you a high gravity ten gallon batch with this setup but that is no concern for me. I think for ten gallon batches you would be better off to go bigger than 12 gallon boil pot,I would do at least 15 gallons(bigger if you want to do higher gravity brews).

avm221 said:

yes thats a though i have too but i don't really have any of the tools to switch it to a pot

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You can get a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder from harbor freight for $15. That's really all you need. If you want to put a valve on it you can get a step bit and drill. Compared to what you will spend on a pot of the same size you should still come out ahead.

There's no substitute for a 15 gallon pot/keggle, whichever you can pull off. You're going to have boils in the 12-13 gallon range, depending on boil off. Even with that, you'll still likely need to use fermcap-S (or other foam control) in order to prevent boil overs. A valve is super handy, so I'd plan that. A sightglass is helpful (but optional, of course) to determine your sparge completion rates and also if you ever do 90+ minute boils, as it helps you gauge when to start your 60 minutes.

I had my keggles done by a local welding company...cost a bit of $$$, but totally worth having a proper setup done to my specifications, without having to lift a finger. Not a brew day goes by where I think twice about my investment. Regardless, I spent more on a new keg (couldn't source locally) and all the fittings then I would have a fully fitted Blichmann. (It's way cheaper if you can find cheap local kegs!) Spike Brewing offers some well priced kettles that I heavily considered, but I opted to go the keggle path so it could be built precisely to my specs.

I wouldn't even think about doing a 10G batch without a pump or a well thought gravity system. It's a lot of liquid to move...and if you have manual moving processes, you'll want to eliminate those. Also, make sure your boil kettle is high enough so you can drain straight from the valve into your fermenter, it's a dream for a process!

I would also second a larger MLT. These people who suggest 10G MLT's for 10G batches probably never drink a beer above 5%. My first 10G batch, with a measly 24lbs of grain, nearly overflowed my 10G cooler and required a double batch sparge. Next day I had a proper 70qt cooler on the way.

I have a pump, I'll have to find a 15gal keg to cut and add a ball valve to it, and find a 70qt cooler

I cut my keg with a dremil and about 10 reinforced cut off wheels. Came out beautiful! It did take about an hour though...

How much should I expect to pay for a 15gal keg