Quick question/survey on water adjustments.MASH and SPARGE

After grasping the concept, I’ve been doing water adjustments on the last few batches, using the “EZ water adjustment spreadsheet”. I was under the impression that by adding minerals to get my desired profile, my mash would always be at around 5.2pH. I’m usually lower, whether it be with dark beers or pale beers. So…

1. Those that are adjusting their water, is your mash always et 5.2pH after additions?
2. Are you adding salts to the boil or simply skipping this step?
3. The spreadsheet enables you to uncheck sparge water additions but I’m not sure how useful this is and when you would want to do it. Any info on this?

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=1692

If you don't know about that, that's what a lot of us use.

Nobody has some info on this??

The only add I use is the pH5.2 Stabilizer. I added it to the mash only, since I batch sparge. It's a buffering solution, so I don't even bother to actually measure it, I assume it's working.

I don't use any other water modifiers, but from my general chemistry experience, using different salts to get a certain profile doesn't guarantee a pH of 5.2 Adding a lot of basic modifiers, for example (like many carbonates), will bump your pH up. If you want to keep it at 5.2, use the buffering stabilizer.

I use 5.2 and I split the tablespoon to cover the strike water and sparge water. I think it works. Beer is better since I started using it. Be sure you are dechlorinating your water as well; it can make a huge difference.

nutty_gnome said:

Be sure you are dechlorinating your water as well; it can make a huge difference.

Click to expand...

Yep. I fill my hlt to the brim (about 14 gallons in a 15 gallon pot) and start heating, crush up a campden tablet and swirl around. I believe it has an almost immediate effect.

When I reach mash in temp I add in 3 tablespoons of PH 5.2 and use the water in the HLT throughout the brewing process.

I use the EZ spreadsheet. I don't think it's very accurate on predicting mash pH. I think the best method is to use the spreadsheet and then check the mash pH and then make some final adjustments (if necessarily) on the fly.

FYI: There is a new improved 2.0 version now available. It has several new features and it attempts to have corrected certain deficiencies with the original version. Particularly the mash pH problems.

I do add the salts to my boil as the spreadsheet suggests. My understanding is that it influences the flavor of the final product, enhances bitterness/maltiness etc.

As for the 5.2, in my experience it is not neccesary with the EZ spreadsheet. I brewed with and without 5.2 at the same time I was using the EZW SS. It made no difference in my efficiency.

Other than an understanding of the process, are there other reasons to be concerned with mash PH if you are getting good consistent efficiency?

pH is not about efficiency, it's about tannin extraction. If your wort gets too basic, (high pH), you will start pulling tannins out of the grain, giving you that awesome tea bag flavor. pH management is about making beers that taste like beer, not like tea.

shortyjacobs said:

pH is not about efficiency, it's about tannin extraction. If your wort gets too basic, (high pH), you will start pulling tannins out of the grain, giving you that awesome tea bag flavor. pH management is about making beers that taste like beer, not like tea.

Click to expand...

Not true! pH has an effect on the enzymes working in the mash and will most definitely effect your efficiency.

maida7 said:

Not true! pH has an effect on the enzymes working in the mash and will most definitely effect your efficiency.

Click to expand...

Huh, I didn't know that. Cool.

The tannin thing is true though too....

I treat my mash water separately from the sparge water. I add the mash salts directly to the mash, but add the sparge salts to the sparge water before heating. The proportions for both additions are about the same. I need both additions to add Ca and to adjust the pH. Without treating the sparge water, I either get excess tannin extraction, or I have to stop sparging early, and in either case, I end up with cloudy beer.
My mash pH is usually about 5.4, which I consider acceptable. If I wanted to reduce it further, I would have to add acid, sauermaltz, or more salts than I care for

-a.