HLT question

Hello.
I am in the process of putting an all grain set up together. Is there any benefit to putting a diptube in my keggle HLT or can I just drain from the coupling with a valve on the outer end? I havent brewed all grain yet, but I am under the impression that the HLT is just to store/heat your sparge water. If that is so, it seems like the only downfall will be that I would have to heat maybe another gallon (or so) of water that would sit below the level of the coupling.

Do you mean cut out the bottom of the drain, turn it over and drain out the original hole? If so, yes. I couldn't use the coupler. 2" tri clamp fittings will attach to a sanke keg. You can buy one that has a 1/2" NPT thread.

I have a keg with the top cut off and 3 couplings on the bottom end of the sidewall with a ball valve, a temp guage, and a sightglass installed. I was wondering if it would be OK to drain from the coupling on the bottom of the sidewall or if the diptube would be necessary to drain the HLT to the bottom of the vessel.

I-Hop said:

I have a keg with the top cut off and 3 couplings on the bottom end of the sidewall with a ball valve, a temp guage, and a sightglass installed. I was wondering if it would be OK to drain from the coupling on the bottom of the sidewall or if the diptube would be necessary to drain the HLT to the bottom of the vessel.

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A short pc. of tubing from the inboard side of the ball-valve with a 90* down to the depressed center of the keg (similar to those used with false bottoms) would effectively siphon it within a few tablespoons of empty... otherwise flow will stop when the fluid level goes below the ball-valve

No need for a diptube. I just add an extra gallon of water when filling my HLT for my mash water. That extra gallon stays in my HLT after I drain my mash volume. If you have a sight glass, just make sure you remember that extra gallon of 'dead' space.

^^^ Extra water is much easier

ndinh said:

No need for a diptube. I just add an extra gallon of water when filling my HLT for my mash water. That extra gallon stays in my HLT after I drain my mash volume. If you have a sight glass, just make sure you remember that extra gallon of 'dead' space.

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helibrewer said:

^^^ Extra water is much easier

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Just getting ready to "calibrate" my sightglasses, and this got me to thinking.
Would it be better to start the markers with zero being top of "dead" volume and measure actual "dispensable" volume?

Also got to thinking about measuring MLT volume. Using inverted keggle, so no "lost" dead volume, but wondering if I need to include volume of HERMS coil and plumbing when calculating my mash ratio. Primarily 10 gallon batches.

Appreciate any experiences or observations.

MrNatural said:

Just getting ready to "calibrate" my sightglasses, and this got me to thinking.
Would it be better to start the markers with zero being top of "dead" volume and measure actual "dispensable" volume?

Also got to thinking about measuring MLT volume. Using inverted keggle, so no "lost" dead volume, but wondering if I need to include volume of HERMS coil and plumbing when calculating my mash ratio. Primarily 10 gallon batches.

Appreciate any experiences or observations.

Click to expand...

Yes, you should include the total liquid volume in your MLT "loop" when determining the mash ratio. For my RIM's system, I use 1.5 qts/lb in my system and that gives me a "consistency" in the grain bed of about 1.25 qts/lb after considering the volume tied up in hoses and the RIMs tube.

EDIT: you can determine your loop volume either mathematically (volume of a cylinder) or practically by charging your system then draining the external components into a bucket and measuring that volume.

In a keg, the bulkhead drain would nearly be at the 2.5 gallon mark. I find it wasteful to spend the energy heating an extra gallons that you wouldn't use. Even a hose barb with a short piece of silicone tubing is better than nothing if stainless steel tubing isn't in the budget.

helibrewer said:

Yes, you should include the total liquid volume in your MLT "loop" when determining the mash ratio. For my RIM's system, I use 1.5 qts/lb in my system and that gives me a "consistency" in the grain bed of about 1.25 qts/lb after considering the volume tied up in hoses and the RIMs tube.

Click to expand...

That makes complete sense to me.

Bobby_M said:

In a keg, the bulkhead drain would nearly be at the 2.5 gallon mark. I find it wasteful to spend the energy heating an extra gallons that you wouldn't use. Even a hose barb with a short piece of silicone tubing is better than nothing if stainless steel tubing isn't in the budget.

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And so does this.

Thank you gentlemen............

Bobby_M said:

In a keg, the bulkhead drain would nearly be at the 2.5 gallon mark. I find it wasteful to spend the energy heating an extra gallons that you wouldn't use. Even a hose barb with a short piece of silicone tubing is better than nothing if stainless steel tubing isn't in the budget.

Click to expand...

This is what I do in my HLT, I trimmed the tubing at a slant so that is lays almost flush with the bottom of the vessel....works great.

Bobby_M said:

In a keg, the bulkhead drain would nearly be at the 2.5 gallon mark. I find it wasteful to spend the energy heating an extra gallons that you wouldn't use. Even a hose barb with a short piece of silicone tubing is better than nothing if stainless steel tubing isn't in the budget.

Click to expand...

While I don't like the idea of heating the extra water, the first mark on my Bobby_M sight gauge is at 2 gallons. To make it easier, I fill more than I need and heat it, use what I can read on the gauge. Oh well....