Why is there such a huge leak in my regulator?

This is my first time kegging so I suspect there's an obvious solution. I went to use a spare keg to put the co2 in just so I had a little trial before actually carbonating my beer. the problem is there is a massive leak right where I connect the regulator to the co2 tank (At the nut you twist closed). Any ideas?

BrewRI said:

This is my first time kegging so I suspect there's an obvious solution. I went to use a spare keg to put the co2 in just so I had a little trial before actually carbonating my beer. the problem is there is a massive leak right where I connect the regulator to the co2 tank (At the nut you twist closed). Any ideas?

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Maybe you need something like this?

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produ...12694&osCsid=fa18cc5c45b2670766362762fc65d458

I'm just not sure if the problem is with the hardware or if I'm just going it wrong. There is a little plastic circle thing (O-ring?) that came on the regulator that I didn't put anywhere I'm just clueless as to what to do.

There should be a white "plastic" (I believe teflon) washer that gets pressed against the valve when screwing the nut on. It should have came tethered to your regulator. Do you have this piece installed?

*edit*
As soon as I posted, yours came up above it. That is the reason you're leaking. You didn't installed the gasket. it should have a small ridge on one side. Now look that the regulator seat, there is a groove. Line the ridge up with the groove. Good bye leak.

Thank you! I got the leak problem down, got the beer in the keg and am about to carbonate it then release it a few times to get the oxygen out but it seems like no matter what I'm doing the PSI on the regulator just floats around 27, how long should I be putting co2 into the tank before it changes?

EDIT: If it's any help it's a Belgian White at room temperature to be cooled later in a minifridge.

It doesn't change- YOU turn it down. There is a screw on the front, or a knob. Using a flat head screwdriver, with the keg empty of co2, turn it down to where you want it. Then, turn on the co2 to the tank.

Also, I'd recommend chilling the beer first, because cold beer absorbs co2 faster and you can use a lower psi with chold beer.

Also, on the connection between the tank and regulator you may want to use some Teflon tape on the threads. Even with my washer in place and it tightened down I was still leaking a little. The Teflon tape cleared that up.

knotquiteawake said:

Also, on the connection between the tank and regulator you may want to use some Teflon tape on the threads. Even with my washer in place and it tightened down I was still leaking a little. The Teflon tape cleared that up.

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I don't think that Teflon is appropriate on that connection. Obviously it's working for you but you should look into getting a better washer to mate up with the two surfaces.

Teflon tape should never be used on cylinder connections or tube-fitting connections where the gas-tight seal is to be made by a metal to metal fitting . Use Teflon tape only on pipe threads where the seal is made at the threads. All other connections have metal to metal face seals or gasket seals. http://www.chem.purdue.edu/chemsafety/gaslaws.htm

Agreed with samc. Teflon should not be used on this type of connection.

what should be used? I put the washer in, tightened it down tight and I could literally hear the hissing gas escaping from the threads of the connection. This is all brand new from Kegconnection. So far I have been kind of underimpressed with the stuff I ordered there.
One of my two kegs had to have the seals immediately replaced and the top won't seal unless you do it just exactly right and then quickly put pressure in the keg. One of my picnic taps also leaks from the hose to ball lock connection as well.

You should tighten the nut more then I suppose. The threads are not the sealing surface on that kind of connection like pipe thread is. The gasket that goes between the tank and regulator tailpiece seals it.

If you've crushed your washer gasket, you may need to replace that. You could try a bit of keg lube on the gasket. Are you using lube on your trouble seals?

no lube... never needed that kind of extra help.
But seriously, no, I don't. I tightened that nut very tight, I got a wrench out and cranked it, the washer is still fine looking though.

Although the one thing is that there is a small very thin bit of plastic all the way around the main body of the washer, like leftover plastic from the mold that didn't get cut off. don't know if thats supposed to be there.

wow, it would have been awesome if along with the 1/2 opened bottle of starsan that spilled in the bag of stuff that Keg Connection sent me they had also sent some keg lube.

CO2 leaks are a pain in the arse sometimes, I just scrapped a dodgy regulator that had a small crack in the body, I swapped to my other regulator and bottle, had another small leak from a loose clamp on the gas line, and while on vacation I lost another 5lb of gas on a leaking purge valve that I failed to leak check after lowering pressure to bottle off a few for the trip. a quick lubing of the seal surface and snapping the valve a few times sealed it up tight. Try to spray all seals, connections, and parts with a spray bottle of Star San to make sure there are no leaks.

Have you emailed or called kegconnection? In my experience they have been really good at taking care of any errors/issues/questions with an order.

I probably will. I was just trying to make it work myself first because I thought maybe I was doing something wrong or needed to give it more time.

Alright so I gave it round two this afternoon. Since I have 0 experience in this I tinkered around with the regulator to try to make more sense of it. I solved the initial co2 leak, I tried a few methods and it's 100% A-OK. I just don't really have a sense of how to adjust the PSI. At first I though you just pumped in co2 for a little and the gauge would change which I learned was wrong. Then someone mentioned you adjust the nut/screw on the front of the regulator (Anyone know what this is called) and that would adjust the co2. I did that and I got it to 13, which is what I'm aiming for. So I connected the gasline to the keg and it's been on for a few minutes but the line doesn't feel cold so I'm not sure if the co2 in actually going into the keg.

1) Do I need the co2 constantly connected to the keg in order to keep it pressurized?

2) How do I know if the keg is pressurized and how long should I be leaving it connected to the keg?

The tank isn't pushing any co2 into the keg and I'm not sure why. I've checked for leaks and the tank is full (exchanged this morning). I knocked it over this morning while the regulator was attached to it but the only thing that happened was the plastic cover to the gauges came out. Could this have caused something to break which would explain why no gas is coming out and is it something I can fix at home?

1) You can disconnect the keg from the gas and it will remain sealed, it shouldnt leak out at all. but it may absorb into the beer over time depending on the beer temp. I hit my kegs after purging the oxygen out with 30psi and store them that way at room temp until Im ready to chill them, carb up and serve.
2) If you lift up on the center valve ring or small lever you will hear a hissing sound, this lets you know that it is pressurized and also helps purge the air out of the keg, I do this a few times for a few seconds each time to purge out the air. you leave it connected to the co2 for the duration this is needed to do two things, it carbs the beer over a 2-3 week time period, and it also pushes the beer through the tap for serving without lowering the carb level.

BrewRI said:

1) Do I need the co2 constantly connected to the keg in order to keep it pressurized?

To keep it pressurized - no , to get it carbonated to your desired PSI - yes


2) How do I know if the keg is pressurized and how long should I be leaving it connected to the keg?
Pulling on the pressure release valve will let you hear the gas escaping. If you are doing the set and forget method it can take 1-2 weeks, depending on pressure and temperature.

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