Called retailer with keg ?'s; Not so sure they know what they're talking about

Actually I'm sure she was wrong on at least some stuff, if not everything.

Here's what I have
Homebrew Kegging System

I called yesterday after researching the best way to reduce foaming issues. It went something like this:

Me: I have a kegging system I purchased from you guys and was wondering what you recommend to reduce foam.

Her: Do you have the picnic tap or shanks?

Me: Just the picnic tap. I was thinking about buying something longer and thinner than the 1/4" 3 foot line that came with the kit.

Her: The picnic tap needs the three foot line.

Me: oh...well I wanted to increase the resistance so I could run it at a higher pressure from the keg.

Her: You just have to play with the regulator to get a good pour. Picnic taps only use a 3 foot line but shanks use 7.

Me:.....ok thanks.

Wow. I guess she knew what came with the products but not how to use them! This is just background information. I've already order plenty of 3/16 line that I'll probably run at 7 to 10 feet.

Today I call back with other questions. I was a little disappointed when she answered.

Me: I had a couple questions on how the regulator works on a keg kit I recently purchased.

Her: The regulator? Ok, what's wrong?

Me: Do these regulators include a check valve before the gas line?

Her: Uh, let me see...yes there is a bladder.

Me: Ok. I have a keg that is well carbed, but it seems pressure can leak back through into the regulator.

Her: The CO2 can only come from the tank.

Me: The tank is connected but off. When I pull the pressure release on the regulator I hear all the pressure release. After I wait a second I can pull it again and have more pressure hiss then stop. It will keep doing that.

Her: Just because CO2 comes out of the release doesn't mean it's broken though.

Me: Oh I know. I mean I think gas is flowing backwards into the regulator.

Her: That doesn't mean it is broken. It doesn't stop air, just beer.

Me: (giving up on that one - next step was going to be telling her the nylon or rubber around the check valve area looks chewed up) Ok, I'm also trying to check the pressure in my keg.

Her: The top gauge is the keg pressure.

Me: Ok. I have a keg carbed and I want to make sure it is carbed how I want it. It has been carbed, then sitting around for about a week. If I hook up my regulator and tank with the tank off, I don't see any movement on the gauge.

Her: You can't measure the tank pressure with it off.

Me: I'm talking about the keg.

Her: You just have to pour a glass of beer and see. There isn't a way to check how it's carbed because you can't tell if the CO2 is in the keg and...(starts to confuse herself)......Anyway, you just have to pour it.

Me: Ok, thanks


First issue - my check valve. Should I be able to keep releasing keg pressure from the regulator release?

Second - checking the keg pressure on carbed keg. Kind of doesn't matter now, because to day I hooked it up and could read 30 psi at room temp, so I think that is working. Is that how it's done?

I'm not too sure about the check valve issue, but my guess is you don't have one.

As far as the pressure of the keg is concerned. It is difficult to tell the volume of CO2 in solution. The regulator guage won't give you that, just the pressure in the tank. You can easily have perfectly carbed beer with absolutely 0 pressure in the tank (think un pumped keg). I'd pour a glass and see how you like it. Too carbed? shake it a little and purge the tank. Not enough? leave it on a little more pressure for a bit.

Thanks for the response powerjb.

I guess I thought with time to reach equilibrium, the air over the beer should balance the CO2 pressure in solution. If it is less CO2 would be coming out of solution (like an open beer) and raising the pressure in the headspace until it was equalized.

That's true. You can measure volumes of CO2 by knowing the beer temp and the pressure of the headspace given that enough time has passed to reach equilibrium. The question I can't answer is if the gauge on the reg would be an accurate way of measuring that pressure. If you're able to vent the keg through it, I'd imagine you can.

I'm guessing they sell picnic faucets as a kit with the line preattached to both the faucet and the disconnect and it's 3' of 1/4" ID period. Yes, you can make up your own.

Bobby, how do you know what a keg is at if you have carbed it (fast, or slow) and let it sit off gas for a while? Or, do you just hook it up, dialed in to your desired pressure for a while just to make sure? How about that check valve?

I think you're right about the tube lengths. I think she thought that it must have to be that way or something. Not a HB'er, or at least not a kegger, I think.

One last thing. I saw a post of yours specifying a couple of tubings out of McMaster and I can't find it now. Do you know what I am talking about? I went with the 5231K289 at 3/16 ID and 5/16 OD:

With a nonabsorbing surface that resists bacterial growth, this PVC tubing facilitates thorough cleansing, won’t
impart taste, and meets 3-A sanitary requirements. It is clear, so you can easily monitor the flow of your line. Use with
dairy as well as water and food and beverage. Material is FDA CFR21 175.300 and USDA compliant; it is also NSF
51 certified. This tubing can be cleaned with alkaline-based cleaners and sanitizers; it can be sterilized with steam
(autoclaving), gas, and chemicals. Not rated for vacuum.

If you pull a keg off the gas after it has fully carbed to equilibrium, it should stay there unless it's been leaking. Even if it did lose half the gas, you'd just need to set the reg to the actual or new pressure you want and reconnect the keg.

If you have a keg that's overcarbed and want to dial it down a bit, you'd still set the reg to the pressure you wan (no keg connected), vent the keg and reconnect. You might have to vent it a couple times over the course of a few days to fully vent the overcarb.

That tubing looks good but most people use 1/8" wall and not 1/16" but I don't know if you'll have any problems with it.

Hammacks, Hope you don't mind my butting-in.
I'm looking for a basic setup to make the initial leap into kegging, and this was kinda what I had in mind. What was the shipping on this package?
One more thing, Never heard of a 4# tank before (though there's a lot that I haven't heard of). $20.00 sounds pretty darned good! What do you all think about that?
Thanks!

Chris

I have a pressure gauge connected to a short run of tubing connected to a gas QD that I use to check pressure on my kegs. Disconnect the gas, pop on the gauge, and voila...instant head pressure reading.

I like the sound of that MrNate

ChrisS68, I'll get back to you tonight on the shipping cost. I believe I read the 4# tank is a converted O2 tank. They filled it with no problem at my local fire safety supply. Oh, you're not butting in.

Very cool.
Thanks!

Chris,

Shipping was just over 16 dollars, but I do live in Lansing, MI. If you get the kit I would advise getting some other beer line as there's is 1/4" ID and only 3 feet long. I went ahead and bought Part Number: 5231K953 from McMaster-Carr. It's 3-A Sanitary Clear PVC Tubing at 3/16th ID with 1/8" walls. You have to buy a minimum of 25' though.

I really appreciate the info Hammacks.

If your check valve is working, pulling the regulator release will not de-pressurize the keg or let you know what pressure the keg is at.