Warming a fermentation chamber

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JBHB

JBHB

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Hey all,

So I built a version of the son of fermentation chamber to keep my brews at a consistent temp during the summer. Now that we're into the cooler temps I need to bring the temperature of my fermentation chamber up to keep my yeasties happy. I picked up a reptile heater and wired it into my thermostat and swapped the switch over to heat rather than cool but it hasn't worked so far. I have very little wiring/electrical knowledge so it's a bit over my head. The thermostat I have is this Filtrete model from HD.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e2/e25c9044-c826-4b98-b1bb-7db6ac9382b9.pdf

The reptile heater I got is:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQCKA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Any ideas on getting this to work?
 
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I was hoping to get away with not having to buy anything else if I didn't need to.
 
A dual stage temp control is the best method, but if you only have cold side control, you can put the reptile heater in there and let the cooling side fight the constant heat. I'm not recommending this (since it puts a lot of wear and tear on your cooling mechanism), but have done it in a pinch, and it works.
 
Heat the room the fermentation chamber is in. Or move it to a heated room. I cool all year round since my fermentation chamber is in a room I use and it is heated to about 68 mid winter.
 
If your able to return the HD stuff you can purchase a paint can, a 6' extension cord, a refrigerator bulb, and the base plate the bulb screws into. Small hole in the side of the can to run the attached wiring to the base plate, two holes in the bottom of the paint can to attach the base plate. Screw in the bulb and put on the lid. Plug this in and you have stable heat.

There is a thread with pictures I got this from. It cost me less than $10 to build.
 
JBHB said:
Hey all, So I built a version of the son of fermentation chamber to keep my brews at a consistent temp during the summer. Now that we're into the cooler temps I need to bring the temperature of my fermentation chamber up to keep my yeasties happy. I picked up a reptile heater and wired it into my thermostat and swapped the switch over to heat rather than cool but it hasn't worked so far. I have very little wiring/electrical knowledge so it's a bit over my head. The thermostat I have is this Filtrete model from HD. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e2/e25c9044-c826-4b98-b1bb-7db6ac9382b9.pdf The reptile heater I got is: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm%C2%AE-Under-Heater/dp/B0002AQCKA Any ideas on getting this to work?
Click to expand...
Having experienced a ferm chamber fire w/ a small heater unit I've swapped over to a ceramic bulb on the heat side of my two stage controller. It screws into a std bulb outlet. Works great and nothing to catch fire light an incandescent bulb.
 
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I have been pondering this as well, but I was thinking about an aquarium heater in a 1 gal glass jug would do the trick in the chamber.

I did some looking in amazon and it looks like about 10 bucks for a 150 watt submersible.

Add in a stc1000 and I think it would work.
 
I've used a 60w light bulb for heat. It's just enough to warm it up without the refrigerator having to work overtime to compensate.
 
I just checked the thermostat you ordered, and it is for 24 volts not 110v, so as soon as you plugged it in it probably died. You could have bought a Line Voltage Thermostat, since you only are interested in heat. I suggest you look into an STC-1000 thermostat. It will do both heating and cooling
 
I've used the fermentation chamber for cooling so far and it's worked great. I use jugs of ice and the PC fan circulates the cool air until the chamber comes down to temp. Sounds like I'm gonna need to buy a stc1-1000. Looks like they're less than 20 bucks though. I guess I can swing that.
 
My aquarium heater is supposed to arrive tonight. The low tonight is supposed to be 28. I'll hook everything up tonight and report back tomorrow. I think I paid 15 at amazon.
 
I use a stc1000, paint can and a 25watt bulb which works great for me ... Had a 60watt but the paint can got way too hot for my liking.

image-3439081706.jpg
 
I know of many people using the paint can heaters, and having great results with them. Anyway, I remembered an episode of Good Eats, making yogurt and using a heating pad to keep it at temperature. Guess what? I put the electric heating pad under my fermenter attached my STC-1000 probe to the bucket, and once again, life was good .
The first time I used the heating pad the temp over swung, and it turned on the freezer on and off for half a day. New method, turn freezer off at the freezer switch, set t-stat 5 degrees less than is wanted for a day or so, YMMV, and then set proper temp for fermenter. It takes a fair amount of heat to get the fermenter up to temp, but once the desired temp is reached, it takes very little energy to keep there. I am only using the heat side, as my garage temperature is low enough to not need cooling.
If you need wiring assistance, just ask.
 
MindenMan said:
I know of many people using the paint can heaters, and having great results with them. Anyway, I remembered an episode of Good Eats, making yogurt and using a heating pad to keep it at temperature. Guess what? I put the electric heating pad under my fermenter attached my STC-1000 probe to the bucket, and once again, life was good .
The first time I used the heating pad the temp over swung, and it turned on the freezer on and off for half a day. New method, turn freezer off at the freezer switch, set t-stat 5 degrees less than is wanted for a day or so, YMMV, and then set proper temp for fermenter. It takes a fair amount of heat to get the fermenter up to temp, but once the desired temp is reached, it takes very little energy to keep there. I am only using the heat side, as my garage temperature is low enough to not need cooling.
If you need wiring assistance, just ask.
Click to expand...

With the Lasko My Heat Personal Ceramic Heater's selling for just over $18 now on Amazon IMHO there is no reason to build a paint can rig or buy a reptile heat pad...
 
Behold my ferm chamber (Now with HEAT!!!!). Got 150w aquarium heater in front set to 70. AC is set to 64.

It's supposed to get down to 28 tonight. Well see if primary fermentation is still rolling in the am.

I have not had time to build a proper chamber but the box and ac saved my butt this summer in 100 deg days. It easily kept the beer in the 60s.

image-2860719195.jpg
 
I got the stc-1000 this week. Tried to wire up my reptile heating pad to it but it's not heating up. It works plugged directly into the wall so I'm not sure why it won't work plugged into the stc-1000.

I think I'll run to the hardware store and see if they have a small personal heater, ceramic bulb or try the bulb/can option.
 
Go for the personal (ceramic) type heater, they are safer...you could keep it on low in a closet & adjust the door for temp' control
 
Ok, I bought the heater. I wired a two prong polarized extension cord into the stc. I then too some extra wire from that extension cord and ran it to a decora receptacle and then plugged the heater into that. The stc powers on and shows its in heating mode but does not power up my heater. Should I have used a different type of cord and wire or does it matter?



image-2446797132.jpg
 
JBHB said:
Ok, I bought the heater. I wired a two prong polarized extension cord into the stc. I then too some extra wire from that extension cord and ran it to a decora receptacle and then plugged the heater into that. The stc powers on and shows its in heating mode but does not power up my heater. Should I have used a different type of cord and wire or does it matter?
Click to expand...

There is a delay, it takes like 3-5 minutes until the device it's controlling powers on. How long did you let it sit all plugged in?
 
JBHB said:
Ok, I bought the heater. I wired a two prong polarized extension cord into the stc. I then too some extra wire from that extension cord and ran it to a decora receptacle and then plugged the heater into that. The stc powers on and shows its in heating mode but does not power up my heater. Should I have used a different type of cord and wire or does it matter?



View attachment 160914
Click to expand...

I am surprised that with that many threads about how to wire that device, people still make the same mistake.
The STC controls relays and do NOT provides power.
Connect neutral from the line to your prong.
Connect hot to one of the "heat" STC connector, and second to prong.
When heating, the STC will energize the relay and close the circuit.

Looks like you did not research very well before playing with electricity, be careful, this is a shock and fire hasard. Do not let your device unattended until you are sure it will work correctly. If you are not sure, contact a licensed electrician, I bet you it is cheaper that your house.
 
After the scolding from AngryMonk I took a closer look at this project and some other threads and diagrams till I found one that made sense. I got my head wrapped around it and everything is working great now. So, thanks AngryMonk for setting me straight on this!
 
EDIT - Disregard... I didn't see that there were a million responses after the last one I read. Damn homebrew clouding my vision!
 
I take a hair dryer, place it on its lowest setting, mount it in my ferm chamber so it doesn't blow directly on a surface (standing freezer), plug the cord into the PID and switch it to heating mode. Works like a charm.

I have a two stage controller so I can keep the freezer & hair dryer plugged in all the time, but I haven't got around to installing it yet.
 
Is there not a concern about moisture/condensation in the chamber? I was thinking about getting one of those 20 personal heaters and using that instead of something like a fermawrap but I was concerned that the moisture could cause something not desired to happen (electrical surge, fire, etc.)
 
TheCubbyHole said:
Is there not a concern about moisture/condensation in the chamber? I was thinking about getting one of those 20 personal heaters and using that instead of something like a fermawrap but I was concerned that the moisture could cause something not desired to happen (electrical surge, fire, etc.)
Click to expand...

Depends where you live i suppose, if condensation is a issue where you live just buy a cheap Eva-Dry E-500 for 23 bucks on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H0XFD2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Their nice because they are rechargeable by just plugging them into the wall overnight.

My little Lasko heater works great, looking at my brewpi logs for the last brew my garage is like 30-40 at night , the inside of the freezer stayed at 60 and kept a sour beer i have at 73 by only turning on for 10 minutes every 2 hours.
 
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FuzzeWuzze said:
Depends where you live i suppose, if condensation is a issue where you live just buy a cheap Eva-Dry E-500 for 23 bucks on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H0XFD2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Their nice because they are rechargeable by just plugging them into the wall overnight.

My little Lasko heater works great, looking at my brewpi logs for the last brew my garage is like 30-40 at night , the inside of the freezer stayed at 60 and kept a sour beer i have at 73 by only turning on for 10 minutes every 2 hours.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm not sure if condensation would be an issue (I'm guessing probably not in the winter) because I havent hooked up my fermentation chamber (chest freezer) yet but it was just something I was thinking might be an issue.
 
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JBHB said:
After the scolding from AngryMonk I took a closer look at this project and some other threads and diagrams till I found one that made sense. I got my head wrapped around it and everything is working great now. So, thanks AngryMonk for setting me straight on this!
Click to expand...

You are welcome, I did not mean to sound that harsh, but the search function of the forum is usually pretty efficient ;-)

As my boss told me once, RTFM !

Glad it is working well for you now.
 
JBHB - your picture of the wiring setup was VERY useful in AngryMonk realizing the mistake. Cudos on posting a pic!

Next step will be using one receptacle for both heating and cooling by removing the jumper between the hot side of the 2 outlets BUT leaving the neutral intact thus only having to run one neutral wire back to the primary power cord...
 

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