Bucks Electric Brewery

Williams 728
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Got the wort final valve in and connected.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1415913339.016315.jpg
 
Hey, where did you get your ph meters from, also; I just re-read this and can't find the pumps or valves you used.
 
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That's a Wedgewood Tech ph probe holder/ conductivity probe holder. It's 1" triclamp. I have two of them, on the HLT and the MLT loop. I'm using a Hach ph transmitter instead of the wedgewood since the Hach does auto temp correction. The conductivity probes use the stock transmitter that puts out a conductivity and a temperature output.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416400667.046107.jpg

I use Chugger pumps with stainlrss heads.
 
I just realized I'll be in pit next Tuesday and again Saturday. My wife's grandfather lives there. Also a navy guy but he was a WWII sailor. Turned 100 a few months ago.
 
SHvanBommel said:
I just realized I'll be in pit next Tuesday and again Saturday. My wife's grandfather lives there. Also a navy guy but he was a WWII sailor. Turned 100 a few months ago.
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Stop by A&M wine and beer in Washington Pa (south of the burgh) and say hi.
 
Where did you get the pnuematic valves? And what size tank are you supplying them with? I have been looking for a better solution than those crap 12 ball valves I have


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You sir are a fiend! I am following this even though I know absolutely nothing about automation. This is so cool.
 
kickflip_mj said:
Where did you get the pnuematic valves? And what size tank are you supplying them with? I have been looking for a better solution than those crap 12 ball valves I have


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Got em off ebay. I have a set of 1 1/2 3 ways I need to move.

80g tank, though you could go much smaller.

Look at "bitter end trading" on eBay.
 
Trying to wrap my head around the pressurized boil kettle.

1. What is the benefit of boiling under pressure other than getting to boil faster?
2. How do you get the hops in while it's under pressure?
3. It looks like the little guy on top of the pressure gauge is the PRV. Are you concerned about that clogging with all the steam and other junk going through it during the boil?
 
crane said:
Trying to wrap my head around the pressurized boil kettle.

1. What is the benefit of boiling under pressure other than getting to boil faster?
2. How do you get the hops in while it's under pressure?
3. It looks like the little guy on top of the pressure gauge is the PRV. Are you concerned about that clogging with all the steam and other junk going through it during the boil?
Click to expand...


During the boil the lid will be off.

The kettle will be pressurized after the boil to push the wort through the chiller and into fermenter.

John Kimmich (heady topper) does this too to prevent any hop resin from possibly being damaged by a pump impeller.
 
Well the drain lines are installed on the MT and BK. Since this Christmas will be at home with my wife, I may do the first beer on the new setup.
 
Do you ever climb inside the kettle and pretend you're on a spaceship? ;)

That is some serious overkill. I'm not sure most pro brewers would know what half the gear is.

Interesting idea about using CO2 to push the wort. So the plan is to push the hot wort single pass through the chiller to the fermenter?
 
orangehero said:
What is the function of the conductivity sensor in your rig?
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Well the sensors also give me temperature, so primarily for now they are temp sensors.

Maybe I can use conductivity to help with brewing water chemistry. Salt additions and such.

I can also use it to make sure my cleaning solution is at the right concentration.
 
Great job man. I'm beginning to design something like this now. Anything you already know you would do different?
 
orangehero said:
Maybe I'm missing something but how will a level sensor alert a stuck mash then?
Click to expand...


Once I start sparging, both of my throttle valves ( sparge, and runoff to BK) will go to say 10% open. So water in will equal water out. At that point the water level in the MT will be monitored and the sparge throttle will maintain that level. When that level starts creeping up, that's when I will start to close the throttle valve to prevent a stuck mash. I will also be monitoring flow rate. I do have a nice DP sensor that I could install if this doesn't work as expected. I have brewed a lot of beer over 15 years, I'm not going to push runoff to save time. For me it's not about staying just inside the limits, it's about staying far inside the limits, if that means more time, then so be it.
 
trimixdiver1 said:
Once I start sparging, both of my throttle valves ( sparge, and runoff to BK) will go to say 10% open. So water in will equal water out. At that point the water level in the MT will be monitored and the sparge throttle will maintain that level. When that level starts creeping up, that's when I will start to close the throttle valve to prevent a stuck mash. I will also be monitoring flow rate. I do have a nice DP sensor that I could install if this doesn't work as expected. I have brewed a lot of beer over 15 years, I'm not going to push runoff to save time. For me it's not about staying just inside the limits, it's about staying far inside the limits, if that means more time, then so be it.
Click to expand...

I mean during mash recirculation not during sparge.
 

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