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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Automated Brewing Forum > Automated Rig Piping review
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:24 AM   #21
kickflip_mj
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Mat thank you;
1)I will have to do a step by step picture
2)the chiller is in the BK for whirlpooling, and the CW stands for cold water
3)So I fill the hlt with strike water, heat it, transfer it to the MLT and then refill the hlt
4)Cold water
5)The fitting is the out for the chiller, the valve will probably be at the top

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Old 02-12-2013, 01:35 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by kickflip_mj View Post
Mat thank you;
1)I will have to do a step by step picture
2)the chiller is in the BK for whirlpooling, and the CW stands for cold water
3)So I fill the hlt with strike water, heat it, transfer it to the MLT and then refill the hlt
4)Cold water
5)The fitting is the out for the chiller, the valve will probably be at the top
For #3 I think Peter's point might of been that you might look at heating strike water in the BK and Sparge water in the HLT. That way you can still transfer the strike water to the MLT, but the sparge water will be up to temp for the HERMS coil to do its thing.
Also a question for the water pipe on the left, what is this used for? As I can work out it can either flush the HERMS coil, flush P1 or flush P2 (and then either bottom fill the MLT or BK), if this is the case could you do away with the line and 3 way valve after P1 (replace with 2 way) and flush the system with clean water from the HLT? If you leave this in you might want to move the HLT water in valve to after the tee.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:13 AM   #23
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I like the Idea of heating the strike water in the BK and transfering it to the MLT.

Matt, The left pipe parallel to P1 is to recirculate the HLT water. The "water in" was to fill the HLT and supply the water to the MLT.

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Old 02-12-2013, 02:42 AM   #24
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I like the Idea of heating the strike water in the BK and transfering it to the MLT.

Matt, The left pipe parallel to P1 is to recirculate the HLT water. The "water in" was to fill the HLT and supply the water to the MLT.
Haha, missed that you could do that with it. Makes sense
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:59 AM   #25
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The real question is How can I fill the BK now without adding a valve.

Also, If I did a CIP with a 60psi pump and spray ball, would pump 2 break?

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Old 02-12-2013, 04:20 AM   #26
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Water in HLT, pump to BK through P2 (not running) and bottom fill.
As long as the design pressure of the pump is above 60 PSI you should be good, but explain your CIP a bit better.

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Old 02-12-2013, 04:36 PM   #27
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Would pump two allow water through it when it is not on?

My CIP is going to be a 60 psi pump for the pressure to run the spray ball in the BK and MLT for easy cleaning. im going to hook it up at the bottom outlets and run a hose back to the top of the tanks. and circulate until clean.

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Old 02-12-2013, 09:43 PM   #28
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ok i have made changes and now have the piping drawn out.

fill-hlt-bk-strike.jpg   fill-mlt.jpg   recirculate.jpg   sparge-out.jpg   whirlpool.jpg  

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Old 02-12-2013, 10:50 PM   #29
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You can probably save some money and get rid of the extra water in valve that you added on the BK.

To fill your BK for Strike water w/o the extra water in valve, do a combination of step 1 and step 4. That will get the water into your BK. Do that first and then once the BK is filled, start filling the HLT.

Great job, that's a really nice looking setup.

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Old 02-12-2013, 11:20 PM   #30
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I understand what you are saying Peter, I just don't want that water sitting in the pipes once everything is boiled then turning the whirlpool on and contaminating the boiled wort with unboiled water. (paranoid much?lol)

Thank you peter, it has been a lot of work, and its already turning costly.

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