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Old 02-23-2011, 03:01 AM   #11
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Well, if the housing around the connections is reliable, then it's probably fine. Good idea by the way; I dread the day my element kicks. I'm not even going to eff with chipping away epoxy! I'm cutting the cord and starting from scratch.

If you make sure you get it all the way in and around the connections and let it cure, it should be fine....at least enough to ward off condensation and the odd droplet.
Exactly why I chose not to go the potting route; when mine blows, I can simply unscrew it and pop in another. It take a bit more time and money up front, but will be easier to service in the long run.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:45 PM   #12
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So should I leave it on there or rip it all off?

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Old 02-23-2011, 01:09 PM   #13
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I've used gray RTV from Permatex from the local auto parts store. It has great adhesion to stainless, has high tensile strength when cured, and "blends" in

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Old 02-23-2011, 01:50 PM   #14
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So should I leave it on there or rip it all off?
What brand/type of caulk is it? Mfg description should be your guide.
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:57 PM   #15
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If you can take it off easy enough take it off and use JB it is time proven on the board. Why change somthing we know works?

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Old 02-24-2011, 12:35 AM   #16
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If you can take it off easy enough take it off and use JB it is time proven on the board. Why change somthing we know works?
I chose this route because it's infinitely more removable than JB Weld. My original idea was to use it to just glue a PVC coupling around the business end of the element so that one couldn't touch it quite so easily. Once I got that do I figured I might as well fill the coupling up to prevent any touching of it at all... It was about an hour after that that I realized that it might not have been the best of ideas.

Brand is GE Premium Silicone Glue. Tube says it's waterproof and air tight. Tube says it bonds to most metals and plastics, and doesn't say anything about it being corrosive to anything.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:51 AM   #17
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What are you saving by using silicone except a few inches of the cord? Or does potting the base of the element cover the stainless tee and busing on that end to some extent as well?

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Old 02-24-2011, 02:24 AM   #18
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It covers the entire end of the element and the end of the bushing the element screws into.

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Old 02-24-2011, 03:10 AM   #19
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Alright... just so there is no question...DON'T DO THIS!!! I just spent the last 45 minutes cleaning wet silicone off of the end of my RIMS tube.

I'd say that there was about an inch thick of silicone in a 1.5" PVC coupling. Only the top 1/4" cured. When I mounted everything up it started to run out the bottom of the pot. Since I am going to mount my RIMS tube vertically I decided to just use the silicone to glue the PVC coupling to the bushing so that it covers the dangerous end of the element. You would have to reach down and stick your fingers in it to get shocked, so I think the safety feature is still there.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

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Old 02-24-2011, 06:32 PM   #20
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As I stated earlier in the thread, liquid e-tape works great, and is removable.

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