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bigljd · 07-08-2012, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregKelley

That's great! I love my electric system. I too noticed that these PWM devices are never 100%. So I put in a switch that allows me to by pass the circuit and supply either 5v or 0v consistently to the SSR. It is a 3 way switch that will send all voltage to the SSR, send the voltage to the PWM or not send anything at all. I turn it full on until I have a rolling boil, then I switch it to run through the PWM.

That's a good workaround to the problem. I'm OK with it being less than 100% power though, since I normally start heating the wort while I'm sparging when wort completely covers the element. Even running at 60-70% power during the sparge I'll usually be close to a boil by the time my sparge is complete. I may have to run it at 95% for a couple minutes to get it to a rolling boil, then I can dial it back down again. Can't wait to try this thing out!

FrFtr28 · 07-10-2012, 12:55 AM

I have my board all put together, but when I test it the light on the ssr stays on longer when the dial is turned down. It's as if something is reversed and when the dial is turned all the way up, the element is heating less if that makes sense. Any idea what the problem could be?

stamandster · 07-10-2012, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrFtr28

I have my board all put together, but when I test it the light on the ssr stays on longer when the dial is turned down. It's as if something is reversed and when the dial is turned all the way up, the element is heating less if that makes sense. Any idea what the problem could be?

You have the left and right connections on the potentiometer switched.

FrFtr28 · 07-10-2012, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stamandster

You have the left and right connections on the potentiometer switched.

That was the problem. Thanks for the quick response!

stamandster · 07-10-2012, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrFtr28

That was the problem. Thanks for the quick response!

That's only because I did the same exact thing

tdiowa · 07-16-2012, 07:11 PM

Fired mine up for the first time this weekend!!!

It works!!!

Thanks to everyone who shared their information on this project. Doing things like this is almost as much fun as drinking the beer I make.

On to the next project...

TD

KingsTab · 07-18-2012, 09:54 PM

I love the quick response of a PWM when you have boil overs. Such a great idea!

**chuckjaxfl** · 08-01-2012, 02:46 AM

Mine:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/chuckjaxfls-pwm-344952/#post4296437

**kzimmer0817** · 08-28-2012, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clearwaterbrewer

Here is a pic of three of them fully assembled and hot-glued..

Clearwaterbrewer,

I thought that this was Walker's PWM, so I PMed him about it; now I realize that it's yours. I'm trying to decide between his, yours, or the little kit that has been recommended (with the substitute capacitor)

I hate to be asking to be spoon-fed, but I sure would like to see a diagram of your PWM. I've looked at the circuit-bee schematic. I'm a little bit familiar with circuits from my college physics classes in 1979. But . . . the way the individual components look when connected together isn't always obvious from a schematic.

I would greatly appreciate it if you would supply a drawing of how the actual components attach to the potentiometer - even if hand-drawn and not even artist quality. Did I read that you don't solder these to the pot but use hot glue to hold everything in place?

Thanks,
Keith

maltbarleyhops · 09-28-2012, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freddyb

Here's a diagram I made. I tried to keep it simple. Hopefully it's enough to get you going. It's easier to understand once you get your hands on this stuff and start piecing it together.

this would be an "dc to ac" ssr correct?