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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > PID with two heating elements and how to wire it?
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:02 AM   #11
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So this would work?
Great!!

I will probably use selector switch for PID and pumps and system power key with LED light.

One question, what is purpose of buzzer, and do I need it?
I read that it is in relation with alarm (PID or timer), I dont know if Auberins 2352 have sound alarm already...

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Old 12-22-2011, 06:15 AM   #12
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Can I use 3 position switch like this to control PID and heaters?:


It would be wired on this way:
OFF- PID and heaters are off
position 1- PID is on, both heaters are on
position 2- PID is on, one heater is on, other is turned off

Instead of this I could use two toggle switches (one for PID and other for turning off one heater), but this 3-way switcher seems like better option.
What do you think, can it be wired on this way?

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Old 12-22-2011, 07:42 AM   #13
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I modified PJs diagram and this is how it looks, I know it probably isn't good but I gave best from myself (don't laugh, its my 1st try in wiring):



I am sure that SSR cant have two plus inputs but I didn't know how to connect it correctly.
Also, I added buzzer with momentary switch for turning alarm off.

Please comment/criticize.

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Old 12-22-2011, 12:42 PM   #14
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that will still flip both ssrs because they are jumpered together.

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Old 12-22-2011, 12:55 PM   #15
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You need a internal main disconnect to turn off power when you are away from the unit or cleaning. Otherwise you will have line voltage on everything all the time.

Also you should be able to run both elements off one 220V 30A plug. If they are 110V elements then one runs on one leg and the other off the other leg. If they are 220V elements then both bridge across the 220V.

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Old 12-22-2011, 04:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtsims21 View Post
that will still flip both ssrs because they are jumpered together.
I thought about that too, is there different way to wire it, or I"ll have to use 2 switches (one for PID which will fire both elements, and other which will turn off one of them)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by thargrav View Post
You need a internal main disconnect to turn off power when you are away from the unit or cleaning. Otherwise you will have line voltage on everything all the time.
I am still thinking about main power switch.
Options are 2-position switch and Emergency power off button, or both of them.. I would like to have switch for turn off when cleaning and also when I am not brewing, but I read that E-stop switch is desirable because of safety reasons.

Can I use one switch (like this) for both reasons?

Quote:
Originally Posted by thargrav View Post
Also you should be able to run both elements off one 220V 30A plug. If they are 110V elements then one runs on one leg and the other off the other leg. If they are 220V elements then both bridge across the 220V.
Can you please give me more detailed information about this?
What kind of plug is this and where is it located?
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:11 AM   #17
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Here is the wiring difference.

For the 110VAC elements you would use two 110V 30 Amp plugs - they are available from Lowes and Home Depot. The blades look like this | - with the regular round ground hole right below and the plug fits a standard outlet box & outlet cover. The ground side of the plug would stay wired together but you need to separate the hot side by beaking off a small metal tab on the side.

The plug that goes to the wall is still a standard dryer plug.

I attached a simple drawing of how the elements are controlled.

110vac-verses-220vac-wiring.jpg  
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:17 AM   #18
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Old 12-23-2011, 07:09 AM   #19
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Hi thargrav, thank you very much for help!
It means a lot to me.

Elements are 220V (2000w), but since I need to connect them to different phases I need two 220v plugs.
Would this be right:


These two switches are for control power supply of heating elements, if this is true I don't need switch on jumper between the two + posts from the PID?

Where would you put main power switch (to turn off elements, PID and pumps), and also what kind of switch is suitable for that?

Thanks again!

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Old 12-23-2011, 07:31 AM   #20
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The safety disconnect would be wired so that it disconnects both sides of the 220VAC where it comes into the box. You could use a panel mounted breaker that would double as a overload protector or you could use one of the push button style kill switches. Just make sure it is 2 pole and opens up bothe sides of the line.

For 1 or 2 element control you could add one more toggle switch between one of the SSRs and the PID. Flip the switch open and that SSR would stay off.

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