Do you need to stir E-Keggle, and where to locate element?

Hi All,

I'm adding a 5500 W ULD ripple electric element to my Keggle BK and was wondering if I need to stir it. Can I just leave it until it gets up to, say 208 degrees with a PID controller? Then can I switch it to manual and keep an eye on it until it gets past the hot break and walk away for the duration of the boil (with the exception of hop additions) so I can get bottling?

Is there an issue with the hops and/or wert proteins resting on the element, or would they be in motion enough for that not to matter.

And how low do you put the element? As low as you can or up a bit so hops and/or wert proteins can settle below it if they are not in motion and do settle?

Thanks a lot!

What I did (as always, your mileage may vary):
My element is mounted somewhat high (just shy of the 2 gallon mark, on a cheap polarware kettle. I then put my drain port 90 degrees and lower, so that a screen will fit under the element. I don't stir much for the boil, I recirculate a bit while warming to boil, mostly because the pump is already rigged for the mash (I BIAB). I haven't had issues with anything sticking to the element, even the IPA that I just made without a hop sack (a moment of reckless abandon that led to LOTS of cleaning time). I like the element position, so far, but I'm not sure that it's any better than putting the element lower, I'm sure that you'll get other experiences and opinions.

I have a simple controller, no PID, and run it at max to get to boil, then gate the power back to manage the break. After the break, it maintains a solid rolling boil at about 50-60% power, hands free.

What kind of control do you use DKennedy?

I'm using a home made controller with an Auber SYL 2352 PID & SSR.

What I do is have the element set for about 195F as soon as I have enough liquid from the sparge to cover it, finish sparging and then go to my duty cycle (65%) on my PID that works for the boil. It will break a little slower, but I've found it easier to avoid boilovers without having the extra room like a 20g pot. No need to stir, the temp might not be super accurate before it starts boiling, but once it is you're fine. Theres enough motion that nothing gets scorched during the boil...I have heard of someone on HBT who had to stop their boil and then restart it, only to find out later the beer tasted like ash. His guess was during that pause some break material or hops had settled onto the element and then scorched when he restarted it.

As for element placement:

Flat section of the side of the keg for the best seating (avoiding the dimples)
If you have a false bottom, take that into consideration as well. I have 2 thermometers, one RTD for my panel and one dial in my sight glass, and between those two and the element it's a little tricky getting the false bottom in and out. But pretty much as low as you can manage will be the easiest.

LaramieKing said:

What kind of control do you use DKennedy?

Click to expand...

Basic stilldragon controller, fed with 30 amps through a spa panel. I'll snap pictures one of these days, keep forgetting.

Edit: This one

Thats basically a potiniameter right? How do you like it? I want pids but im just ready to get my erig up and going and money is tight haha...sorry about stealing the thread

It is. I'm happy with it, so far. Three brews on the system, and the controller has been kink-free. I'd entertain an automatic system, but I'm a pretty hands-on guy so this works great.

I heat to my strike temp, dial back until stable, then dough-in. Minimal fiddling after a few minutes.

About stirring-- I have an element in my 15 gallon pot for boiling 6- 12 gallons, and the temperature probe is down at the bottom. I find that as I am heating up wort it is good to stir a few times, as a gradient actually develops pre-boil above and below the element. So it might be 165 degrees F on the PID raising at 100% output, but I give it a stir and it quickly equalizes to about 175 or 180. I just stir a two or three times as it heats. Once I am at boiling, I bump down to 55-65% in manual mode and get a good rolling boil that keeps things churning with no gradient. After the boil gets going and the initial monitoring for boil overs is done, little attention is required. Burning or scorching has never shown itself as an issue, even with lots of pellet hops.

I like what Brettomomyces suggests about setting to a lower temp and not monitoring if you are off and about, it would prevent getting a boil on before you were ready.

I also set my pid to 208 -wait for the alarm and then about 60% in manual mode..(4500w ulwd element)..I do stir from time to time but mainly because I us a stainless hopspyder and I have to stir to get circulation through it.

Dkennedy - thanks for sharing your no need to stir after boiling experience. You too brettomomyces. And pineconebrew.

To counteract stratification I'm planning to run a silicone hose from an aquarium air pump to get some bubbles to mix up the water. Will report back after next brew day with results.