Anyone else have problems with junk selector switches?

I bought some switches from one of the online retailers who advertise here. When I installed it the switch part keeps coming out of the bracket that holds the contacts. So I talked to the retailer and he sent me a replacement. This one did the same thing. I installed 4 other switches with no problems.

link to switches... maybe you're doing something wrong?
pm to me...

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/shop/indicators-switches/3-way-1-no-contact-switch.html

It looks like the bracket is out of round making it so the catch on one side isn't catching.

So, with the switch out of the box, unscrew the angled screws on the switch body

Push the rotator switch and body together twist anti-clockwise to separate top and bottom

THEN, re-install by pushing rotator switch into body and twist clockwise, (you'll feel it click into position) to "almost lock" into position

tighten the angled screws on side of switch body so they push the rotating switch part away from the body.

Note ONLY the black switch part should move, the silver colored outside ring doesn't move


see if top falls away from bottom.. should be no vertical play in between rotator switch and main switch body?

crazyirishman34 said:

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/shop/indicators-switches/3-way-1-no-contact-switch.html

It looks like the bracket is out of round making it so the catch on one side isn't catching.

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Sorry about hijacking the thread but I followed the link hoping to find a heavy duty 3-way switch that I could use to switch between elements but these are only rated at 3 Amps. Does anyone know of the same style 3-way switch rated at 30 Amps?

kenh said:

Sorry about hijacking the thread but I followed the link hoping to find a heavy duty 3-way switch that I could use to switch between elements but these are only rated at 3 Amps. Does anyone know of the same style 3-way switch rated at 30 Amps?

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you'll need to use a "contactor" to switch that sort of power

The Bryant 3025 will do 30 amps.

So when I do what you asked Big Floppy it catches on one side and not the other. I tried to make the bracket more round if that makes sense but it doesn't really effect the problem. It also seams like the lugs on the one side are noticeably smaller then the side that engages well

Sounds weird, does the plastic top look like this when separated from the body (both same height)?
(mine is a pic of a 2 way switch top

Nope it has one lobe that moves left or right and engages the contacts. Also the lobe is centered when in the off position

So, this is what your switch looks like...

That is the beast.

pm'd for faster response

BigFloppy said:

you'll need to use a "contactor" to switch that sort of power

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So, does anyone know of a 3 way "contactor" switch like the one in this thread?

you're trying to switch 3 separate monster 240v supplies?

A contactor is just a really large solenoid. You use the selector switch to turn on and off the coil for the contactor. If you haven't read Kal's electric brewery site you should do that before you start your build. Lots of good info.

He said 30amp

kenh said:

Sorry about hijacking the thread but I followed the link hoping to find a heavy duty 3-way switch that I could use to switch between elements but these are only rated at 3 Amps. Does anyone know of the same style 3-way switch rated at 30 Amps?

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yeah, 3A @ 240v, these switches will handle 10A @ 110v.

Only way I could think about totally switching 3 seperate 240v@30A would be to add 4xNC contacts to the actual switch and 3 seperate relay contactors..

Would need to be wired .. a1 -> -b2, b1 -> -a2, -a3 -> -b3 to get the 3 individual selectors where -a2,-a3 and -b2, -b3 are NC connectors (might need tweaking)

anyways crazyirishman34, back to your issue...
As you have 2 N/O contactot blocks on the body of the switch... separate the 2 halves of the switch
turn rotator switch to center position
make sure switch body screws @ 12 and 6
With the rotator paddle towards you, insert into body with paddle at about 11 oclock
use outer rim of rotator switch push into body turning clockwise to 12 oclock
it will "semi-lock" - tighten the body screws against the rotator mechanism

should be good to go

BigFloppy said:

you're trying to switch 3 separate monster 240v supplies?

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No, I want to switch between 3 different 5500 watt elements.

5500watt elements are large draw circuits. Honestly you should do more research before trying to build you control panel. Take a look at this site http://theelectricbrewery.com. Kal has a great build and goes threw it step by step

kenh said:

No, I want to switch between 3 different 5500 watt elements.

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I'm building a 110v system (1500w or so elements) and with that, there's no way I would allow all the physical power to go through a switch, the switch enables the contactor for main heater power.

Here's a question for you kenh : Does your drier power outlet have an on-off switch... ever wonder why it doesn't ?

BigFloppy said:

I'm building a 110v system (1500w or so elements) and with that, there's no way I would allow all the physical power to go through a switch, the switch enables the contactor for main heater power.

Here's a question for you kenh : Does your drier power outlet have an on-off switch... ever wonder why it doesn't ?

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I can buy a light switch style switch at LOWES that will switch 30 amps on and off. So what's the difference between switching one of these and something that's three position?

kenh said:

I can buy a light switch style switch at LOWES that will switch 30 amps on and off. So what's the difference between switching one of these and something that's three position?

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kenh, you're going to have to ask this question under your own thread. There are others on the forums who may/may not be able to answer your question but for me, contactors (switching relays) are the only way to go even when only pushing 1500W at a time, let alone potentially 5500W

kenh said:

I can buy a light switch style switch at LOWES that will switch 30 amps on and off. So what's the difference between switching one of these and something that's three position?

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?. That would be some light switch.... 30a at 240v?
I know its off topic a bit but the thread topic appears to be dead now anyway.
A regular light wall switch is rated at 15a at 120v and likely less than 10a at 240v... the lower the voltage the higher the amp load the contacts in the switch can reliably handle... otherwise they burn and arch together or melt the switch.

augiedoggy said:

?. That would be some light switch.... 30a at 240v?
I know its off topic a bit but the thread topic appears to be dead now anyway.
A regular light wall switch is rated at 15a at 120v and likely less than 10a at 240v... the lower the voltage the higher the amp load the contacts in the switch can reliably handle... otherwise they burn and arch together or melt the switch.

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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...le-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941#

This could certainly be used rather than a lower rated switch with a DPST contactor.

jeffmeh said:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...le-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941#

This could certainly be used rather than a lower rated switch with a DPST contactor.

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Yeah I guess It could.... but I see a couple trade offs... for one I would be very Leary about switching that thing on and off with even the slightest amount of moisture on the switch or my hands... the other issue is those switches tend to have a shorter than normal lifespan under high loads in my opinion from past experience as a maintenance man. I never used one quit that big but we had large light switches with heat sinks built into them that would fail often.

augiedoggy said:

Yeah I guess It could.... but I see a couple trade offs... for one I would be very Leary about switching that thing on and off with even the slightest amount of moisture on the switch or my hands... the other issue is those switches tend to have a shorter than normal lifespan under high loads in my opinion from past experience as a maintenance man. I never used one quit that big but we had large light switches with heat sinks built into them that would fail often.

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I wouldn't be concerned about it, but to each his own.

jeffmeh said:

I wouldn't be concerned about it, but to each his own.

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Very true...especially when one person has been exposed to the misfortunes first hand of such shortcuts.
I had the added experience from a visit from the fire dept where they explained the dangers of non sealed switches in high humidity environments when the switches and outlets in my saltwater reef tank canopy arched out and caught fire from the condensation and build up of salt that accompanied it.... it almost cost me most everything I own.
My panel will be too close to the boil kettle for me to be comfortable putting my bare hands less than an inch from contacts charged with the potefrntial for 240v.... lower voltage / amperage switches controlling a relay inside the enclosure is a no brainer for me as far as safety is concerned. But then again I service and repair 220 and 480v machinery for a living so Ive seen more arched and melted relays and switches than most. Two weeks ago I seen a lamp ignighter explode and 10" flames coming out of a machine that made me glad there was one of the mushroom emergency switches around to kill ALL potential power to it.
In a real emergency...walking over to the spa panel and opening the cover and shutting off the breaker could take all the time in the world to make a difference.... especially when panic setts in and one isn't thinking clearly.... but unlike 120v, 220v can killed a person in a millisecond so In that case it wouldn't matter.

Btw I have two of the switches that started this thread and after checking them out in my panel closely I don't see how they could fall apart if installed correctly... Either the thread starter really did somehow get defective units or they aren't installed correctly.

Honestly this thread has gotten way off topic. I do agree with augiedoggy that using contactors and relays controlled low amperage switchs. I would much rather have 12v behind a sealed switch then 240v behind an unsealed switch. Talk about a zap!

crazyirishman34 said:

Honestly this thread has gotten way off topic. I do agree with augiedoggy that using contactors and relays controlled low amperage switchs. I would much rather have 12v behind a sealed switch then 240v behind an unsealed switch. Talk about a zap!

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Did you figure your switches out? The two I have are the same as yours only they are three position on-off-on ones and now that they are installed they aren't going anywhere and I don't see how they could come apart.... before I tightened the set screws in the back I could see them falling apart.

Yeah the body was miss cast. It didn't have a large enough lug on one side. So when I tightened the screws on the switch bracket it would slip past the lug. I bought a switch from a different source. That switch works just fine now. I am not sure if ebrewsupply.com had a bad batch from China. They did swap out the switch once but it had the same issue. I would still buy other things from them.

Ahh.... I bought mine from china and lucked out. Just took a while to show up... I ordered 6 switches from 3 suppliers and one of the packages was completely the wrong item.

I'll buy the bad batch switches at cheap if anyone wants to sell me a few, nothing that a washer won't take care of

Yeah these are junk I tossed them.

BigFloppy said:

I'll buy the bad batch switches at cheap if anyone wants to sell me a few, nothing that a washer won't take care of

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FYI They are only $2.50 a piece with free shipping on eBay for these switches..

augiedoggy said:

FYI They are only $2.50 a piece with free shipping on eBay for these switches..

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I know, I've got a few already but looking like I might get pressed into making a couple more control boxes and if I can get switches cheaper than eBay, I certainly won't turn them down