120v to maintain HLT sparge temperatures?

I've tried searching for an answer but haven't been able to find a thread that addresses this specific question. I'm wondering if a 120v heatstick would be sufficient to maintain sparge temperatures in my HLT?

Proposed scenario is an uninsulated keggle or similar stainless pot heated by propane to sparge temperatures, but then maintained by a heatstick or similar element connected to a PID. Assuming a wide range of heat loss (I'm firmly in the mid-Atlantic and we range from 30 to 100 degrees in a year), is it possible to maintain 170's using a submerged element after bringing it to temperature with gas?

I'd just go all electric if it weren't such a pain to get 240v in my garage.

If you are talking about a 5 gal batch it would be fine, I used 1800 watts to boil 5 gal in an uninsulated pot and it was not quite enough. Holding 170 would be simple... I would guess you could even hold 10 gal at 170 with a 2k element. Are you going to install a herms coil in the HLT and recirculate with a pump?

Insulation would, especially in cold weather.

I have two 2000 watt 120v elements mounted in my HLT keggle, I'm all electric.

One element should maintain your temps. I assume you are fly sparging?

With some insulation, 120v will heat and hold temp for your HLT. I would suggest putting it on a simple appliance timer and filling the HLT the day prior to brewing so it will be ready when you are, and not using the propane at all.

My intent was to keep things simple, use blunt force for boiling and heating up to temperatures and then use electronics to maintain temperatures automatically. Ideally, a three burner setup, half gravity with a single pump.

I'd use propane to heat HLT and MT to temps, maintain sparge temps in the HLT with a heat stick and recirc the MT through a RIMS tube. Theoretically this would allow me to maintain temps, recirc, step mash and change kettle size as needed.

My breaker panel isn't a large distance from my garage, but I'm not entirely sure I want to jump into a full electric brewery build out. Somehow I suspect I'd spend half a year building and not brewing.

Barnesie said:

My intent was to keep things simple, use blunt force for boiling and heating up to temperatures and then use electronics to maintain temperatures automatically. Ideally, a three burner setup, half gravity with a single pump.

I'd use propane to heat HLT and MT to temps, maintain sparge temps in the HLT with a heat stick and recirc the MT through a RIMS tube. Theoretically this would allow me to maintain temps, recirc, step mash and change kettle size as needed.

My breaker panel isn't a large distance from my garage, but I'm not entirely sure I want to jump into a full electric brewery build out. Somehow I suspect I'd spend half a year building and not brewing.

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