Detailed Yeast Starter Questions

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

luke2080

Insert Witty Title Here..
HBT Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
460
Reaction score
20
Location
Boston
I've read the Yeast Washing sticky. I've read the various threads on how to make a starter, and I'm familiar with MrMalty's calculator for pitching rates. But I have some more detailed questions to make sure I'm doing this right. Most of these questions regard how to calculate the size of the starter. I've seen various answers, but it seems this needs to be divided to two topics - using liquid yeast from the vial or smack-packs, and using washed yeast. I'm hoping some of you Yeast experts can come out and clarify my assumptions and questions.

*FYI - I am assuming Ale Yeast. For Lager Yeast, one would multiply needed yeast cell count by 2

Starter for Store bought Liquid Yeast
*These start at 100 Billion cells. The viability decreases at a rate of about 23% per month. (Lets say 5% per 7 day week) These also would start at 97% viability (according to Mr. Malty).
*If I were making a 5 gallon batch at 1050 OG, I would need 175B yeast cells. Lets say my Yeast is 1 month old, I have 75B cells, I need to increase my count by 133%
*I can increase my cell count by 50% per 1 Liter of Starter giving it 12-18 hours. (Ratio of 100 grams DME to 1 Liter water). So for this relatively normal starting gravity, using 1 month old store bought yeast, I would need a starter of 2.34 Liters

Question - why are they selling flasks that max at 1 L, which you can really only use a max of 800 ML in? For a large starter at 2.34 - is that just too large to start, so you should do a smaller, say 600ml starter, and step up?

I have also not yet used a starter, and in batches of 1070 using White Labs vials, I have had no problems. (Not sure on production dates on those, was before my knowledge of yeasts) Fermentation was within 15 - 24 hours - blew the top off one airlock, causing me to understand the need for a blow off tube.

When I select "use stir plate" on Mr. Maltys calculations, it says I need 1 L of a starter rather then over 2 - given the above scenarios. Can I assume if I use a stir plate, I can grow yeast at twice the rate? Giving my 1L starter a cell increase of 100% rather then the calculated 50% the WYeast and WhiteLabs mention for their starters?

Starter for Washed Yeast
*If I were to repitch from the slurry of washed yeast, and assume medium thickness with 15% of the slurry "non-yeast" I would need 86 ml of slurry to equal 175 Billion yeast cells. So this actually makes some sense. I should add some measurement lines to some containers to know how much slurry there is, and pitch that.
*But, the ratio of viability seems to decrease more quickly here, losing 11% per week. So if I used 2 week old washed yeast/slurry, I would need 112 ml of the slurry. But if I measure that out, shake up and let warm to room temperature, I should be able to pitch with no starter, right? I realize 99% of people here want to say "ahhh..its always best to make a starter", there should really be no need. I've calculated for a loss in viability. I could make a 500 ml quick starter, to get it going for 12 hours, but technically then I would be overpitching as I'm creating an extra 25% yeast (50% if I use a stir bar apparently).

So what is the growth rate for yeast in a starter with a stir plate, and without? Is growth rate known for a 12-18 hour period versus a 24 hour period?

Rather then washing Yeast, if I wanted couldn't I just buy a new vial, do a 2 L starter to calculate my total yeast with the slurry on that day. Take that, step it to a 10 L batch and do the same. Decant, and have vials of my own yeast ready to go? Obviously all rules of aging apply, losing viability so needing more slurry or needing a starter, but I would think this would a be a great way to get 10 batches or more out of 1 yeast purchase, without the worries of off flavors from spices and AA in the wort that I was making.

I think I'm catching on to this whole Yeast topic, but it is the size of these starters that I really want to nail down. Yes I could overpitch and not worry, but I need to understand the math. (Because I'm a dork) I'm also mad this 1L flask from Williams Brewing looks like it will do me little good, as most of the time I would need to do a full 1L to 2L starter which it can't handle. (But maybe it can with an 800ml starter that runs for 24-48 hours?)

If any can add some clarifying details/math to my questions, then I can go back to killing some brain cells. BTW - I may have just spent 6 hours of my work day on this topic.... :ban:
 
You can't really "calculate" for a loss in viability with washed yeast. You really have no idea how much of them were viable to begin with. That's why a starter is always recommended. Even if your viable cell count is low, a starter will ensure that you multiply the healthy cell count to the level that you will need.

Essentially, the yeast will enter the starter, figure out how much food is there to use, and multiply accordingly. Of course, extra O2 helps them do this. But you definitely don't want to pitch washed yeast without making a starter because simply looking at the jar and seeing what LOOKS like a good amount of yeast at the bottom does not mean they are viable.

I can't really speak to all the math you are trying to do here, because honestly I just make a rough estimate based on Mr. Malty and then just wing it.

Also I've been told it is very tough to overpitch. Because when you make a 1L starter for example, there is a maximum growth that the yeast can acheive in that size starter. In addition as many people on this site have said, it is much more preferable to overpitch by 25% than underpitch by 25%. Basically you should be able to calculate an approximate ending cell count in your starter simply based on the volume of the starter wort and whether you aerate or not. As long as you are tossing a decent amount of healthy cells into your starter, they will take care of the rest and get you where you need to be.

There is a chart out there somewhere that shows the approximate cells you would get from a 1L starter, and step-up starters. But I don't have the link, maybe someone else can provide it.

Good luck with your yeast propagation, I'm sure you'll get the hang of it.
 
I know it doesn't answer your question but nowadays I don't even look at the calculator. I do a 2 liter starter for pretty much every beer. If the gravity is 1.090 or over then I go with a 3-4 liter starter. I have used yeast packs that were over 3 years old and did not do a step up. Some of them took over a week to start showing signs of life but have not had one die out of me yet. If you don't have a stir plate I would recommend one if you start making a lot of starters. So to me the calc is a nice guidline but I don't live or die by it especially when the viability is involved.
 
You could make the 1L decant and pour the yeast in a sanitized Mason jar and make another 1L and dump both. Or pick up a 2L from cynmar for a decent price.
 
You can't really "calculate" for a loss in viability with washed yeast. You really have no idea how much of them were viable to begin with. QUOTE]

Yep, I suppose that is true. I was just basing my calculations off of Mr.Maltys and the yeast lab's info. But in reality that is just an approximation. And so I see your point on always making a starter for my washed yeast. I'll probably always do one two days ahead of time, so I can chill it and decant the wort, to pitch the slurry.

I'm just trying to get consistent, so I can get a bit more consistent with the timing of leaving beer to ferment fully. I totally understand the point of just making a 2L starter every time, (and I do have a stir plate) just hoping to take that next step and really understand what is going on so I can do this properly.

But don't get me wrong, I've probably underpitched every batch so far, with no starters, and have thoroughly enjoyed drinking my beer. :mug:

Any other thoughts on how I can really dig into this yeast business? Everyone agrees it is the main ingredient to a beer, and making a 2L starter seems to always work, but if I want to be a complete geek about this how do I dig deeper? (short of buying a microscope or something...I'm not going that far)
 
What do you mean by dig deeper? Do you want to harvest and store various yeast strains for later use? Washing yeast is a great way to do that. Provided it is sanitary it will keep for a long time, and you just need to make a starter to get it going again. Also, I have made starters before that I didn't end up using right away, and I stored them in the fridge for a month or more and that yeast was still viable (of course I made a new starter from it before I pitched it into my wort).

I'd say the two most important things if you want to store yeast are:

1. Organization: When you save yeast you want to label the jars with the yeast strain, the date it was put in the jar, the source of the yeast (washed from ___ batch, starter from WY smack pack, etc), and any other details that could help you keep good records of what you have.

1. Sanitary conditions: Unlike pitching a bunch of healthy yeast into a 5 gallon batch of beer, starters and washed yeast are much more prone to infections/contaminations. You do not want wild yeast or other bugs getting into your starter. Therefore the more sanitary your process, the more successful you will be at propagating and storing yeast.

There are countless instructional posts on this website that could help you along your way, just use the search function.

Hope that helped a bit.
 
Starter for Store bought Liquid Yeast
*These start at 100 Billion cells. The viability decreases at a rate of about 23% per month. (Lets say 5% per 7 day week) These also would start at 97% viability (according to Mr. Malty).
*If I were making a 5 gallon batch at 1050 OG, I would need 175B yeast cells. Lets say my Yeast is 1 month old, I have 75B cells, I need to increase my count by 133%
*I can increase my cell count by 50% per 1 Liter of Starter giving it 12-18 hours. (Ratio of 100 grams DME to 1 Liter water). So for this relatively normal starting gravity, using 1 month old store bought yeast, I would need a starter of 2.34 Liters

Question - why are they selling flasks that max at 1 L, which you can really only use a max of 800 ML in? For a large starter at 2.34 - is that just too large to start, so you should do a smaller, say 600ml starter, and step up?

- because there's a market for it. Some people prefer to use a smaller flask, build to that size and then split to two other flasks. I don't (and wouldn't personally) recommend that but others will. I'd simply buy a larger flask with a stir plate.

When I select "use stir plate" on Mr. Maltys calculations, it says I need 1 L of a starter rather then over 2 - given the above scenarios. Can I assume if I use a stir plate, I can grow yeast at twice the rate? Giving my 1L starter a cell increase of 100% rather then the calculated 50% the WYeast and WhiteLabs mention for their starters?

The stir plate simply moves the yeast, keeps it in suspension and exposes more of the 'wort' to O2 at the top of the flask. The result is a higher growth rate than simply swirling the starter by hand. That's also why you don't use an air lock but simply place some loosely fitting, sanitized foil on the top during the growth.

But if I measure that out, shake up and let warm to room temperature, I should be able to pitch with no starter, right? I realize 99% of people here want to say "ahhh..its always best to make a starter", there should really be no need.

Correct, no need to make a starter.

Rather then washing Yeast, if I wanted couldn't I just buy a new vial, do a 2 L starter to calculate my total yeast with the slurry on that day. Take that, step it to a 10 L batch and do the same. Decant, and have vials of my own yeast ready to go? Obviously all rules of aging apply, losing viability so needing more slurry or needing a starter, but I would think this would a be a great way to get 10 batches or more out of 1 yeast purchase, without the worries of off flavors from spices and AA in the wort that I was making.

You can (and I'm going to make a big assumption here) but you'll probably not make enough beer quickly enough to make it worthwhile due to the viability and sanitation aspects. You'd (probably) be better off finding the one or two strains of yeast you use the most and harvest the slurry for reuse. You can have two or three batches going all the time and get 10 or more uses from one vial (even if you only use part of the slurry and dump the rest down the sink).

I think I'm catching on to this whole Yeast topic, but it is the size of these starters that I really want to nail down. Yes I could overpitch and not worry, but I need to understand the math. (Because I'm a dork) I'm also mad this 1L flask from Williams Brewing looks like it will do me little good, as most of the time I would need to do a full 1L to 2L starter which it can't handle. (But maybe it can with an 800ml starter that runs for 24-48 hours?)
If any can add some clarifying details/math to my questions, then I can go back to killing some brain cells. BTW - I may have just spent 6 hours of my work day on this topic.... :ban:

I like to understand as much as I can but I've decided to take a leap of faith and trust someone that has done the math and counted cells. I use the Mr. Malty calculator and try to get as close as I can to the "best" pitching rate I can. I won't stand up and demand that everyone does the same, I'm simply saying that I've accepted that someone else has done teh work for me. I've tasted an improvement in my beer as a result (of course that might also be due to temperature control).
 
The stir plate simply moves the yeast, keeps it in suspension and exposes more of the 'wort' to O2 at the top of the flask. The result is a higher growth rate than simply swirling the starter by hand. That's also why you don't use an air lock but simply place some loosely fitting, sanitized foil on the top during the growth.

............

I like to understand as much as I can but I've decided to take a leap of faith and trust someone that has done the math and counted cells. I use the Mr. Malty calculator and try to get as close as I can to the "best" pitching rate I can. I won't stand up and demand that everyone does the same, I'm simply saying that I've accepted that someone else has done teh work for me. I've tasted an improvement in my beer as a result (of course that might also be due to temperature control).

I understand what the stir plate does, was just a little surprised that the way the yeast calculator works, you seem to get a double growth rate, meaning a smaller starter. And you are totally right, I'll have to trust the math of others. I'm hoping at least my assumptions as to how I approach using the calculator with stir plates, yeast storage, etc are right. And it looks like I'm on the right track.
 
What do you mean by dig deeper? Do you want to harvest and store various yeast strains for later use?

Yep - I'd like to store common yeast that I'll use a lot of. Even if it then sits for 2 months in the back of the fridge and I need to pitch it to a starter. Basically, unless I want to try out a new yeast, or I'm 5 generations deep, I shouldn't have to buy yeast. I've spent too much money on all of this equipment, time to save some $$ somewhere. :) I'll definitely need to be organized and sanitary, and I've seen some info on how to tell if the yeast is contaminated (smell, taste the wort on top of it)

I've read all of the other posts on this, and my next step may be to read a yeast book. I just wanted to combine the yeast washing, starting, and calculating to one spot, because I was having some trouble tying it all together in my mind. Just writing this post has helped. Thanks for the input.



QUOTE]
 
I'm still not convinced washing yeast is economically justified for the casual brewer such as myself, who brews monthly or twice a month.

If you infect a batch, you are out not just the ingredients but a chunk of time. I'm not sure its worth saving $6 several times per year, since different recipes use different yeast.

If you brew twice a month, and use a certain type of yeast often, then I can see washing it.


Now, having said that ...

I think the hardest part about washing yeast is getting an "accurate" count of how much yeast is in your slurry. I think it is possible to over pitch. Also, if teh yeast has been stored for a while, and autolysis has taken place, what do you do?

How do you get rid of the dead yeast in your small jar? Rewash the tiny slurry you have and decant the top layer off, leaving the very bottom? Maybe making a small starter, and then a second larger starter off that?

Is there a risk of off flavors?
 
Luke2080- If you really wanna get into the the yeast business I would recommend the book Yeast by Jamil. I have it and a lot of it is over my head but its as involved as you wanna get. Calculations, ratios and anything else you could possibly imagine that you would want to explore. I have washed my yeast now 2 times and have had excellent results. Now I also agree that I maybe underpitching but I have had better attenuation since Ive made starters and washed my yeast. Hope that helps.
 
Luke2080- If you really wanna get into the the yeast business I would recommend the book Yeast by Jamil. I have it and a lot of it is over my head but its as involved as you wanna get. Calculations, ratios and anything else you could possibly imagine that you would want to explore. I have washed my yeast now 2 times and have had excellent results. Now I also agree that I maybe underpitching but I have had better attenuation since Ive made starters and washed my yeast. Hope that helps.

That is a great book. If you can, pick it up. My LHBS sells out constantly. And no wonder, Jamil Z and Chris White know what they are talking about. If you are at all interested in maintaining and propagating yeast, their book will help you greatly.
 
I knew there was a book titled "Yeast", didn't know the author. I'll definitely pick it up if I see it at the LHBS when I'm grabbing some stuff this weekend.
 
If you brew twice a month, and use a certain type of yeast often, then I can see washing it.

Exactly...

Now, having said that ...

I think the hardest part about washing yeast is getting an "accurate" count of how much yeast is in your slurry. I think it is possible to over pitch. Also, if the yeast has been stored for a while, and autolysis has taken place, what do you do?

I wash and then store in a mason jar. The mason jar has ml marks on the side which makes it fairly easy to 'measure' out the desired amount of yeast. I simply determine the requisite amount of yeast, determine the percent of the total yeast I need from the jar, shake vigorously and then pour the same % of the total volume from the jar. More bad comes from under-pitching than over-pitching.

Autolysis doesn't happen in the short time I store my washed yeast. I don't store more than 1 month and usually less than 2 weeks.

How do you get rid of the dead yeast in your small jar? Rewash the tiny slurry you have and decant the top layer off, leaving the very bottom? Maybe making a small starter, and then a second larger starter off that?

I don't get rid of the dead yeast. I just determine how much I need and pitch that volume. You just pitch more as the viability drops off.

Is there a risk of off flavors?

More so from under-pitching than over-pitching. You should always smell and taste your yeast before pitching it. If it smells or tastes bad before pitching, then it'll probably make awful tasting beer.
 
Pearson - your comment on how you use the slurry is what I'm shooting for, and why I was digging into the viability calculations. I'll be brewing once a week for the rest of the summer, and may experiment a bit with some 10 gallon batches, like using 2 different yeast strains in different 5 gal fermenters.
 
ok, so here's more detail...

- I rack my beer into whatever packaging system I want to use for that batch
- I boil about 500ml of water and let it cool
- I pour my 500ml into the carboy (onto the yeast)
- Slosh it around to break up the cake
- pour into a sanitized flask
- allow it to separate out for ~30 minutes
- rack into sanitized mason jars (usually 3 or so)
- allow them to settle out in the fridge for 2-3 days
- pour off most of the water from two, shake one and pour into the first (combine two jars)
- do the same thing again with the third jar
- keep it in the fridge until needed

I use the Mr Malty calculator on the defaults and use the born on date as the date that the active fermentation died off on the last batch. If it says I need ~ 200ml for the batch and I have 300ml in the mason jar, then I shake the jar and pour 2/3 of the total volume into my wort.

make sense?
 
oh, and I usually pour that last 100ml down the drain since I don't usually brew enough to warrant keeping it.

BUT, you could easily determine the cell count (using the Mr Malty calc) and make a starter with that 100ml too.

OR use half on the first batch (with a starter) and use the second half on another batch (also with a starter).
 
Back
Top