I was curious about using cascade and goldings in our dry hop. 2oz of each. We did an IPA and only dry hopped with 2oz. Cascade and it wasn't very hoppy on the nose...so thinking of amping it up with some goldings too. What do you think?
Combining hops for dry hop
- Thread starter Pugs13
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HollisBT
Well-Known Member
Relax man, give it more than 3 hours for someone to respond...
You can mix and match hops for dry hopping just like you would do in the boil. There is no rule for how to do it. Hw big of a batch was the IPA? 2 oz of cascade should have given you some pretty good aroma, I usually only use 1 oz in a 5 gallon batch.
You can mix and match hops for dry hopping just like you would do in the boil. There is no rule for how to do it. Hw big of a batch was the IPA? 2 oz of cascade should have given you some pretty good aroma, I usually only use 1 oz in a 5 gallon batch.
BBL_Brewer
Well-Known Member
You can mix them. I like to mix Centennial and CTZ.
The batch was a 5 gallon batch. Another question...after your boil process do you strain out the sediment from the hops or just toss everything right into the primary? Just curious if maybe we lost some character from straining out the hops after the boil...but yeah we are thinking of doing 2oz. of cascade again and maybe adding 1oz.-2oz. Kent goldings...?
ThreeSheetsBrewing
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How long did you let your dryhop hops swim?
I think our IPA is borderline Pale Ale...its good and drinkable indeed...just not that killer IPA smell...it has lots of grapefruit, citrusy, characters, which I love...but not much on the nose for aroma...which is weird to us using 2oz. of cascade...1oz. for 7 days and another 1oz. the last 3 days prior to bottling...
7 days...1oz. cascade for full 7days then added another 1oz. 3 days before bottling...
slarkin712
Well-Known Member
How old are your hops? If you have old hops that haven't been stored properly then they could have lost some of their aroma character. Also, did you put any specialty grains or something in the batch that could be masking the aroma?
slarkin712 said:
The hops were about 2 days old and then fresh out of the freezer...they smelled great...nice and strong...in our recipe we use golden promise and a small amount of caramel for color...
HollisBT
Well-Known Member
Post up your recipe of you don't mind.
Dry hopping WILL add a significant aroma to the beer, but it will not overpower a strong malt presence, and if you don't have enough hops in your boil, you won't be able to re-capture them from dry hopping.
Dry hopping will help accentuate late addition boil hops, but will not replace them.
Dry hopping WILL add a significant aroma to the beer, but it will not overpower a strong malt presence, and if you don't have enough hops in your boil, you won't be able to re-capture them from dry hopping.
Dry hopping will help accentuate late addition boil hops, but will not replace them.
HollisBT said:
Our recipe is:
12lbs. 4oz. Golden Promise
6oz. Caramel 60L
Hops:
Ahtanum - 1oz. 60min.
Chinook - 1oz. 60min.
Cascade - .5oz. 20min.
Cascade - .5oz. 10min.
Fuggles - 1oz. 10min.
Dry hop 7 days:
1oz. Cascade leaf for 7 days
1oz. Cascade leaf - last 3 days before bottling.
...but I was thinking of doing another 1oz.- 2oz. of leaf in the dry hop...maybe doing more cascades or Kent goldings...
British II Yeast...
I would definitely add more. You yourself said you wanted more hops, so add more hops. I do like to blend my dry hop charge unless I'm attempting a clone. I like to blend citrus with piney or spicy to add some real depth and complexity. I think EKG or Fuggles or Willamette would be a great partner for your english pale/ ipa. So 2oz + 1 or 2 oz EKG for dry hops.
Also, let your hops sit for 10-14 days and add them all at once. I doubt you got much out of those 3 day additions.
For pale ales, I'll use 2 oz. For IPAs I'll use 3-4oz for dry hops. I've used whole leaf and pellets both with good results.
Also, let your hops sit for 10-14 days and add them all at once. I doubt you got much out of those 3 day additions.
For pale ales, I'll use 2 oz. For IPAs I'll use 3-4oz for dry hops. I've used whole leaf and pellets both with good results.
HollisBT
Well-Known Member
Pugs13 said:
Hmmm, you should have a decent representation of hops. My only suggestion for future recipes might be to decrease the 60 minute additions, add some more additions around the 30 minute mark, and then concentrate the additions between 30-0 minutes. That should give you a solid aroma and taste representation of the hops.
The British ale II also leaves a somewhat malty and thick mouthfeel, that can cover up hop aroma and taste sometimes. So maybe that is something you are battling to overcome?
HollisBT
Well-Known Member
I really like 1335, which is what I assume you used as well? It is a really great British ale yeast, leaves a nice lush and creamy mouthfeel with a good malt profile.
But for an IPA, I would recommend using an American or California style yeast which will really show off the hops. 1272 or 1056 will give a nice, clean, slightly fruity finish that will accentuate your hop profile.
But for an IPA, I would recommend using an American or California style yeast which will really show off the hops. 1272 or 1056 will give a nice, clean, slightly fruity finish that will accentuate your hop profile.
Gotcha...I think we will do that this time. Thanks everyone for the help!
WLP 007 is a great english yeast for an IPA or any other american style beer IMHO. Very clean with a just a hint of english yeast aroma/flavor when fermented 66-70*F and just plain clean at 60-64*F. Flocs great too.
