Just thought I'd share how I've been dealing with really hard water after reading the Water book. When overseas I had an RO source and my efficiency was upper 70s assuming I didn't overstuff my mash tun. I lost about 8-10% moving home, but that also included equipment changes. I remedied the hardware differences and still didn't get back entirely to my old numbers until reading the water book.
My well water analysis
As it looks into the kettle, nice and clear at 50-55 degrees F. As it warms up and is exposed to air it gets a very light orange haze due to the iron in the water.
I add 0.43g gypsum per liter of water total, but I only add 2/3 of this upfront as part of my water treatment based on the amount needed to pull bicarbonate down theoretically to 80ppm. The other 1/3 is added to the kettle to get me back up to 50ppm Ca.
This is what it looks like after boiling for 15-20 minutes and the heat is shut off
A couple times I added 1 tsp of acid per 8L ahead of time during my boiling treatment. A skim forms on the surface. If skimmed off and allowed to dry on a spoon or ladle, it's really flaky. I'm curious what mineral is coming out like this.
Then it cools overnight and the particulates settle out. With only one day it isn't perfectly clear, but with 2 it is. You can see the amount of sediment left on the bottom after decanting most water off. It can be a couple of mm deep of soft chalky residue.
It's far more than the approximately 4 tsp of gypsum added. The first time I did it, I was shocked what comes out. No wonder it affects things.
I still need to add a few % of acid malt or a couple tsp of phosphoric acid to get the mash to 5.3-5.5. I need 1 tsp of 10% phosphoric acid per 5-6l of sparge water to drop its pH to 6.
All in all I'm happy with the results. Obviously It is more work, but I usually boil the water a couple days ahead at the same time as making my yeast starter.
I realize sulfate is high for most styles (250-260), but I guess that's my house character until I opt for an RO system.
My well water analysis
As it looks into the kettle, nice and clear at 50-55 degrees F. As it warms up and is exposed to air it gets a very light orange haze due to the iron in the water.
I add 0.43g gypsum per liter of water total, but I only add 2/3 of this upfront as part of my water treatment based on the amount needed to pull bicarbonate down theoretically to 80ppm. The other 1/3 is added to the kettle to get me back up to 50ppm Ca.
This is what it looks like after boiling for 15-20 minutes and the heat is shut off
A couple times I added 1 tsp of acid per 8L ahead of time during my boiling treatment. A skim forms on the surface. If skimmed off and allowed to dry on a spoon or ladle, it's really flaky. I'm curious what mineral is coming out like this.
Then it cools overnight and the particulates settle out. With only one day it isn't perfectly clear, but with 2 it is. You can see the amount of sediment left on the bottom after decanting most water off. It can be a couple of mm deep of soft chalky residue.
It's far more than the approximately 4 tsp of gypsum added. The first time I did it, I was shocked what comes out. No wonder it affects things.
I still need to add a few % of acid malt or a couple tsp of phosphoric acid to get the mash to 5.3-5.5. I need 1 tsp of 10% phosphoric acid per 5-6l of sparge water to drop its pH to 6.
All in all I'm happy with the results. Obviously It is more work, but I usually boil the water a couple days ahead at the same time as making my yeast starter.
I realize sulfate is high for most styles (250-260), but I guess that's my house character until I opt for an RO system.