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**makomachine** · 07-19-2012, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeGarre

I actually ordered it from Australia (I am lazy):

http://www.ubrew.com.au/web/index.asp

The seal is similar to the red rubber one that goes under the malt pipe.

Link isn't working. Got some specs so we can try and find it in the US?

DeGarre · 07-19-2012, 02:45 PM

**Redstag** · 07-19-2012, 03:37 PM

Thyank you for the photo Degarre. Looks like Macomachine is hot on the trail.

**makomachine** · 07-19-2012, 04:05 PM

Thanks DeGarre! Now off to try and find it. Amazon came up blank in generic queries so going to look locally. Is it just a strip that you cut to length?

mandrakemuffley · 07-20-2012, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redstag

I finally found the time to brew the DFH 90 minute IPA clone. I learned a bunch and will be brewing it again but with some changes.

1. The grain bill for an 11 gallon batch is a monster, 34.5lbs in total. As mentioned in an earlier post I split the mash using both 5 and 10 gallon malt pipes. Not a good idea. Each pipe ended up with a large amount of grain, 11.25 lbs in the 5 gallon mp and 23.25lbs in the 10 gallon mp. I had to stop the process several times removing the top screen and stirring the grist so the pumps could circulate the wort. The wort never cleared.

2. I have been trying to incorporate many of ideas discussed in this thread. To that end, I made an attempt at conditioning the grain before grinding. Not having done this before I think it will take a bit of practice to get this technique to work properly.

3.I had the gap in my crusher set to .042 I believe this was another contributing factor of the wort never clearing. The husks looked to be mostly in tack but I guess with the amount of grain being used as well as the crush not being correct the results were not good.

4. Hops, I should have used a hop gag. The amount of trub was incredible. I only collected 6 of the 11gallons I was expecting.

5. I let the whole mash sit overnight as suggested in an earlier post. Also not a good idea if you want to keep the temperature steady. The temperature was 5 degrees warmer the next morning. I had turned off the pump so as not to have it running all night.

6. My before boil gravity was 1.074. Knowing I wanted to finish with an OG of 1.085
I added some Light DME and sparged. 30 min into boil gravity was 1.078, 1 hour into boil the gravity was 1.081, and finished with 1.091, no need for the DME

7. The cooling process went well I just needed more ice. In 10 min I had the temp down to 42C, 15 min down to 33C, 20 min to 30C and 30 min to 28C.

So next time….
1. I will split the grain bill in half and mash twice using the 10g mp.

2. Condition the grain correctly.

3. Use a wider gap for the crush.

4. Use a hop bag.

5. Brew in one day not two.

6. Have more faith in getting closer to the OG ….no DME

7. Have more ice on hand for the cooling process.

As it sits now I have 6 gallons of very cloudy, wort bubbling away in primary with a healthy dose of WLP 007. Soon it will be time to transfer to secondary, dry hop and filter before kegging.

Or serve the it in German style clay mugs….Live and learn

Note to self...don't over think the damn thing, simplify and just brew.

i made a big hop bag that i put loops on so it hangs from the bar you use to rest the malt pipe on, just floats freely about and cut right down on any hop particulants in the wort, works a treat. easy to add hops and plenty of space to move about freely, and it all comes out neat as you like when you finish the boil.
get a plate chiller dude, changed my life! no more sitting about trying to bring down the temp, straight from boiling to 24 deg C in one run, pitching 10 minutes after the end of the boil.
i reckon a handful of rice hulls is a must for a clear brew and even flow.

**Redstag** · 07-20-2012, 04:20 AM

mandrakemuffly,
Which brand of plate chiller do you have? I bought one and it doesn't work anywhere as well as you describe. Your drop in temperature is impressive.
Are you reticulating ice water through it or is that just using tap water?
Tap water temps are warm here in Oklahoma especially in the summer when outside temps are well over a 100F/38C day after day. Thanks a bunch I appreciate the ideas and feedback.

mandrakemuffley · 07-20-2012, 05:51 AM

i am from australia but bought a 30 plate chiller from Morebeer in the states, not sure of the model to be honest, i can post it when i get home. i have a garden hose which i coil through an old esky (beer cooler thing) in which i make a salt water ice slurry, that drammatically improved things. that said i get a run to about 34/5 deg just using straight tap water, but keep in mind it's winter out here so my tap water is about 7-10 deg. (All celcius)
has made my brew day a dream, that and my beautiful Brau of course!

wasp · 07-20-2012, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeGarre

I actually ordered it from Australia (I am lazy):

http://www.ubrew.com.au/web/index.asp

The seal is similar to the red rubber one that goes under the malt pipe.

I used 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD poly as used in Watts RO systems and slit it along the inside edge of the memorized coil shape.

Worked PERFECTLY for containing the grain.

BUT the mesh screen edges are not going to survive many removals and refits for cleaning.

I sure would like to get the type you have DeGarre - before the mesh gets too damaged.

DeGarre · 07-20-2012, 12:50 PM

The link I posted works fine for me. It is Marks Home Brew in Australia. Google brings it up too.

wasp · 07-20-2012, 01:24 PM

Worked for me DeGarre.

I registered at the site and sent a request for info about the rubber edge seal a few hours ago.

Thanks.