Wyeast and other questions...

[wyowolf]

I am getting ready to brew a Caribou Slobber and have a couple of questions.

1. The directions say to take it out of the fridge, the Wyeast packet, and smack it a couple of days before... so i just do that and leave it on the counter? or put it in the fridge? in the videos i have seen it seems like just a few hours before, not days... but the directions say "days"...

2. I am only using 2.5 gal of water to heat and steep the grains, then they are adding water to the cooled wort. In a couple vids i saw they are just adding tap water to it to bring it to 5 gal... is that ok?

3. I am using my aluminum turkey fryer kettle, that i boiled some water in last night, turned dark brown, is that ok?

4. The Summer Honey Wheat I bottled a couple weeks ago and kept in the closet... when can i start putting it in the fridge? how long before I try one?

thanks again...

Frank

 

[mrkrausen]

Hey there Wyowolf,

1. With the Wyeast pack I believe they say it can take from 3 hours to a few days to inflate. I have smacked one at the LHBS that's 20 mins away and by the time I got home it was inflated. It just shows how viable your yeast is. And yes you will want to leave it on the counter so the yeast begin to wake up and start doing there job.

2. Some people boil the top off water to sanitize it and then cool it to bring it up to their desired volume. Many others and myself included have topped off with tap water with no issues. Others use certain types of bottled water. It is kind of up to you how you do it.

3. Was it a new pot, did the water turn brown or the pot? I'm guessing the water. I know you're supposed to boil water in a new pot to release the film from the aluminum pot so you should be okay.

4. Generally people say to condition for a least 3 weeks and then try one to see where it's at. If you think they are where they should be you can toss them in the fridge or if you think they need longer give them another week.

 

[Natethebrewer]

Hey frank sounds like things are off to a good start. Let me offer this much in advice.

1. I never start a Wyeast pack day(s) before. I usuall smack mine before mashing (or steeping the grains in your case). I haven't read their directions lately, but maybe they're suggesting a starter. Something I haven't needed with Wyeast.

2. They say if your tap water tastes fine to drink you can brew with it. Some people prefer to use distilled/ bottled water, or to preboil it. I haven't found a need and just let it run from the tap for a few seconds before filling anything up. Your town would have a water report if you wanted to know what's in it.

3. The water turned brown? I'm guessing left over turkey oil in the kettle. Maybe that one is best left for turkeys. Stop and Shop in CT sells 20 QT aluminum stock pots for $20.

4. Most text say modest gravity beers need 2 weeks to bottle condition. I would put 1 or 2 in the fridge and try them. If it has bubbles and tastes like beer, you're golden, if not, let them sit a little while. Most of my wheat beers barely make the 2 week mark before I just can't wait any more.

Hope that was helpful

 

[stratslinger]

Lets see...

On the smack pack - generally, if I'm not doing a starter, I don't smack mine until I'm starting my brew day. The smack pack only inflates to let you know for sure that the yeast is viable - you can pitch a partially inflated smack pack with no worries. However, as you get further into your brewing hobby, you'll want to learn about starters for liquid yeast!

On the aluminum pot - yes, the discoloration is normal and is exactly what you want! It's an oxidation layer that basically prevents the aluminum from leaching into your beer. Whatever you do, do not scrub that oxidation layer off your pot - gentle cleaning only!

Top off water - when I did extract, I used to pre-boil and then chill my top off water, but based on reading around here, it seems that's overkill. Tap water seems to be just fine for the purpose.

Your bottles should need 3 weeks, at a minimum, in a dark 70 degree closet to carb up. Once they've had that time, they should be good to toss in the fridge. Now, if that's your first brew, nobody's gonna blame you for checking out a couple along the way - but try to restrain yourself with the lions share of them, as they'll likely peak somewhere around 3 weeks or later!

 

[wyowolf]

Ok thanks for all the replies...

1. So i can just do it a few hrs before and will be ok? Seems like leaving it out would make it go bad? I mean for a few days... not hrs. My last brew I used the dry yeast that came with it, and man it bubbled like hell for the first day or so... hopefully this will be similar. This is my first big batch, the last was only a gallon...

2. Tap water it is, am sure the water here is pretty good.

3. Sorry, the pan turned sort of brownish, not the water I should have been more clear... and wont scrub it off

4. Well i stuck one in the fridge last night, how long do i need to leave it there? i figured i would try it out when i am brewing the CS this afternoon The rest I left in the pantry...

So i guess with an extract kit, you dont really need to boil as long since the extract is already out of it.. all your doing is getting it out of the specialty grains... the one gallon kit i did was all grain. I can just add the extract at the end? or does it need to cook?

Thanks again , Frank

 

[progmac]

A couple of notes that i don't think anyone has mentioned

If you have room to boil 5 gallons, then boil closer to 5 gallons, not 2.5. then top up with whatever is needed to achieve 5 gallons on your bottling bucket.

It's true, you don't need to boil the extract, although that is the traditional method for reasons relating to hop utilization. A lot of people prefer to put in half the extract at the beginning of the boil and half at the end. One of the regulars here puts in all at the end. Doing so keeps the beer lighter and arguably reduces unwanted flavor from sugar caramelization

 

[wyowolf]

yes i have a 40qt pot so will use that...

 

[stratslinger]

Perfect - progmac makes an awesome point - if you've got the room for a full boil, your finished product will be better for it! The full boil will help with hop utilization and should also help to keep your color more accurate to style, particularly with lighter colored beers. Just remember 2 things: 1) you are going to boil off probably 1 to 1.5 gallons in an hour, so start off with 6 or 6.5 gallons since you've got plenty of space to do so and 2) it's going to be tougher to cool a full 5 gallons than it is 2.5... If you already have a chiller, no problem! If you don't have a chiller, make sure you've got a utility sink that your pot will fit into that you can use as an ice water bath for chilling your pot. It takes longer than chilling a 2.5 gallon boil by ice water bath but, I can tell you from experience, it IS possible to chill a full boil down to pitching temp in 20-30 minutes using this method.

 

[wyowolf]

i bought the copper tubing for the chiller, havent finished that part yet but its already coiled...

I am confused about one thing. the whirl pooling to clear up the beer, when should that be done? after its cooled? or during? or both?

I was planning to boil say 4 gallons , then take some tap water, put it in the freezer and pour it in when in the ice bath to bring it to 5 gallons... will that work? i would think that would cool it down pretty quick...