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Worth the risk to keep using my Fermonster?

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dawn_kiebawls

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I kegged my last batch about a week before Christmas and couldn't get the lid off so I left it on the counter with the yeast cake in the bottom over night so I could sleep since I didn't finish racking until about 3am..Long story short, busy holiday season between shopping, cooking, entertaining, drinking, dog and mandatory OT I just found said fermonster in my basement with the yeast cake still in the bottom (thanks to my wife trying to 'clean up and help' somehow.....)

There is no visible sign of infection like a pellicle or any visible mold, it does not smell sour or rancid. In fact, still smells just as good as when I racked.

So, is it worth risking infection on all my future batches with this fermentor or should I either trash it or go ahead and use it with brett/bugs? Thanks. Cheers!

P.S. I would just like to include that this is the polar opposite of my typical sanitation practices and I'm embarrassed to even post this but I can't afford a new vessel at this moment!
 
Definitely OK to use.

RDWHAHB

ducreux-rdwhahb.jpg
 
Clean it up real good. If you like, use a weak dilution of antibacterial dish soap and a terri-cloth wash rag or microfiber cloth. Get some starsan solution in it. Swish it around a few times a day. Let it go a day or two. you'll be totally fine.
 
Definitely OK to use.

RDWHAHB

you'll be totally fine.

Thank you both for your fast replies and words of encouragement! I forgot to mention one important detail, the bunghole on top was uncovered the entire time. Still no issues? I'll assume not but I can't help but make mountains of mole hills.

Either way, I'll take the advice given earlier and soak it with starsan, enjoy a few home-brews and brew on! Thanks again
 
^^^ LOL

Being OCD about hygiene is a great thing and will save you many headaches in the future.
 
The peroxide generated by any respectable alkaline cleaning solution is antimicrobial, in addition to the sanitizer used later.

I soak my Fermonsters with cleanser between every use and you should too. This also helps prevent flavor transfer between batches.
Break apart the spigot and soak that too, if applicable, and the lid, stopper, and airlock.

It's not a disorder, just standard practice. Allowing air into the vessel for some time doesn't change anything, in my opinion.
 
I use fermonsters, after a batch I fill it to the top with hot water and a splash of bleach and let it soak for an hour or two. Then I refill with pbw and soak a bit longer, then I remove the spigot, disassemble it and clean with a toothbrush while the vessel gets a rubdown inside with a cellulose sponge soaked in pbw to dislodge any remaining biofilm or grime. Then a thorough rinse and store inverted on a wire rack till needed again. They usually sit a couple weeks between batches so I don't worry about any bleach odors sticking around, between the large opening and the spigot hole they get pretty good air circulation. No infections so far, save an unplanned sour that turned out pretty good and that came from a poorly fitting grommet.
 
I always leave my fermonster open with the yeast cake for a few days after transferring. I wait until I have time to clean which involves a long hot soak in PBW and a wipe with a wash cloth. No infection so far*fingers crossed *
 
Hey there. Wanted to ask a question of folks on this thread. I have a 7 gal. Thermonster with no spigot. A few weeks ago I made a batch of IPA using Wyeast London Ale. It didn't start fermenting for 2.5 days. Then it never got really vigorous. Once kegged and carbed and tasted, I realized it had acquired an infection. Sad, but I dumped it. Fast forward a couple of weeks and I brewed a blond Using Wyeast German Kolsch yeast. It started bubbling within 7 hours. Massive foam. Super-vigorous fermentation. The exact opposite of the previous batch. However, the beer was very dry (despite an FG of 1.018) and had a tang on the back end.

My cleaning process: After emptying the Fermonster, I rinse, then soak for 30 min with B-brite, then sanitize with Star sand. I sanitize again before the next brew goes in.

My fear is, that I've got a bug in my fermenter that I can't get out. Is this fear warranted? Would love advice on this and some suggestions for further use of Fermonster. Better cleaning? Scrap it and get a new one?

Thanks.
 
Hey there. Wanted to ask a question of folks on this thread. I have a 7 gal. Thermonster with no spigot. A few weeks ago I made a batch of IPA using Wyeast London Ale. It didn't start fermenting for 2.5 days. Then it never got really vigorous. Once kegged and carbed and tasted, I realized it had acquired an infection. Sad, but I dumped it. Fast forward a couple of weeks and I brewed a blond Using Wyeast German Kolsch yeast. It started bubbling within 7 hours. Massive foam. Super-vigorous fermentation. The exact opposite of the previous batch. However, the beer was very dry (despite an FG of 1.018) and had a tang on the back end.

My cleaning process: After emptying the Fermonster, I rinse, then soak for 30 min with B-brite, then sanitize with Star sand. I sanitize again before the next brew goes in.

My fear is, that I've got a bug in my fermenter that I can't get out. Is this fear warranted? Would love advice on this and some suggestions for further use of Fermonster. Better cleaning? Scrap it and get a new one?

Thanks.
I don’t think it’s a bug stuck in it personally. You’re first batch you clearly serverly under pitched your beer and there are always “bugs” in your wort but they get out competed by the yeast in a proper pitch. By it not starting for almost 3 days it gave the bacteria or wild yeast time to multiply and compete with your brewers yeast.

Your second beer could be a different story. Need more details to know. What was your mash temp and grain bill? What’s was the og? Did you ensure the beer was done before pulling it off the yeast. Do you use a secondary? Are you preventing oxygen contact post fermentation at all cost. The reason I’m asking so many question is because ipa are notoriously susceptible to oxidation and the creation of acetaldehyde. Both will produce lack luster hop presence and off flavors
 
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Doesn't sound like combination to me, just fermention or water/recipe issues.
 
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I don’t think it’s a bug stuck in it personally. You’re first batch you clearly serverly under pitched your beer and there are always “bugs” in your wort but they get out competed by the yeast in a proper pitch. By it not starting for almost 3 days it gave the bacteria or wild yeast time to multiply and compete with your brewers yeast.

Your second beer could be a different story. Need more details to know. What was your mash temp and grain bill? What’s was the og? Did you ensure the beer was done before pulling it off the yeast. Do you use a secondary? Are you preventing oxygen contact post fermentation at all cost. The reason I’m asking so many question is because ipa are notoriously susceptible to oxidation and the creation of acetaldehyde. Both will produce lack luster hop presence and off flavors

Thanks, Dgallo. Here is some more info.

2nd batch info:
Style: Blond ale
Grain Bill: 7.5 lbs pale two-row, 8oz White wheat malt. 2.7 oz carapils. 1.7 oz crystal 15.
Mash temp: 150, 60 minutes.
OG: 1.050
FG: 1.0167
Total boil hops: .75 oz
Dry hop: 1 oz for 6 days
All hops, Motueka
Yeast: Wyeast Kolsch. 1 smack pack.

Fermentation started very quickly and was complete before kegging. Single stage fermentation. Purged keg before racking. Then purged headspace before it went into the keezer.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I'm going to brew a 5 gallon batch of IPA next Monday. I'll split it between the Fermeonster in question and a glass carboy and see if there is a difference.
 
Thanks, Dgallo. Here is some more info.

2nd batch info:
Style: Blond ale
Grain Bill: 7.5 lbs pale two-row, 8oz White wheat malt. 2.7 oz carapils. 1.7 oz crystal 15.
Mash temp: 150, 60 minutes.
OG: 1.050
FG: 1.0167
Total boil hops: .75 oz
Dry hop: 1 oz for 6 days
All hops, Motueka
Yeast: Wyeast Kolsch. 1 smack pack.

Fermentation started very quickly and was complete before kegging. Single stage fermentation. Purged keg before racking. Then purged headspace before it went into the keezer.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I'm going to brew a 5 gallon batch of IPA next Monday. I'll split it between the Fermeonster in question and a glass carboy and see if there is a difference.
Ok so judging by this info. That grain bill and a 150 mash temp a 1.018 is way to high for a FG so I believe you didn’t let the beer finish before kegging. I would say a 1.012 is more like it. This tells me there is a chance for acetaldehyde, a by products of fermentation, had the ability to be present in the beer. This compound is created by yeast as they make ethenal. When you beer hits fg, you should give it another 2-3 days close to 70*f to clean itself up. The yeast will continue to eat, but since there is no sugars left to ferment, they will reconsume this compound and properly convert them to alcohol.

Start using a pitch rate calculator so you know your pitching enough yeast and make sure it’s finished and been given time to clean up before racking and you’ll be fine
 
Ok so judging by this info. That grain bill and a 150 mash temp a 1.018 is way to high for a FG so I believe you didn’t let the beer finish before kegging. I would say a 1.012 is more like it. This tells me there is a chance for acetaldehyde, a by products of fermentation, had the ability to be present in the beer. This compound is created by yeast as they make ethenal. When you beer hits fg, you should give it another 2-3 days close to 70*f to clean itself up. The yeast will continue to eat, but since there is no sugars left to ferment, they will reconsume this compound and properly convert them to alcohol.

Start using a pitch rate calculator so you know your pitching enough yeast and make sure it’s finished and been given time to clean up before racking and you’ll be fine


Thanks Dgallo. I thought I'd be OK with pitch rate since it was a smallish batch. I was surprised by my FG, but a couple of gravity readings over 3 days showed no change. I fermented at room temp the whole time... low 70's. I think I will take your advice and try to be more methodical about pitch rates.

Also, can you tell me what types of off flavors I can "look" for to ID acetaldehyde?

Thanks again!
 
Thanks Dgallo. I thought I'd be OK with pitch rate since it was a smallish batch. I was surprised by my FG, but a couple of gravity readings over 3 days showed no change. I fermented at room temp the whole time... low 70's. I think I will take your advice and try to be more methodical about pitch rates.

Also, can you tell me what types of off flavors I can "look" for to ID acetaldehyde?

Thanks again!
Tart twang. Kind of a green apple cider like. Will seem drier or over attenuated
 
I use tap water. I'm on city water, not a well. Haven't had an issue until these last two batches. I brew in a bag and do a full volume mash.
Tap water is fine as long as you’re using Camden tabs to remove chlorine.
 
Minerals in the water have a profound impact on the taste. In particular high sulfate and/or low chloride can produce a dry-tasting beer.

Mash pH outside the ideal range (due to improperly adjusted brewing water) can negatively affect the beer, extracting harsh compounds from the grain or decreasing conversion efficiency, and may lead to a higher FG.

Different grain bills require different adjustments, which is why previous beers might have been all right.
 
@RPh_Guy hit the nail on the head with water chem. That’s how you really dial in your recipes and achieve the exact mouthfeel and presentation you’re looking for. Once you get fermentation down pat(which IMO is the most import part of brewing a quality beer) move on to water Chen
 
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