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halister

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
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Location
buffalo
Hi I just wanted to share the way I cooled my wart and let me know if there is a reason why I shouldnt do it this way. I dont have (Made yet) a wort chiller and stupid me only had a half a bag of ice on hand.

.Flame out
.Wort pot went into the sink with the lame amount of ice. Didnt do much as far as temp.
.Placed a gallon of cold water in the pot and that cooled it down to about 150
.Poored the now 2 gallons into the fermentation bucket and added another gallon which cooled it down to about 80.
. the last gallon went in luke warm and that put it at about 70.

It cooled it down in less than 10 minutes this way. Is this a bad practice?
 
On one hand, for safety you should only use distiller or pre-boiled and cooled water. Sometimes straight tap water can have bacteria in it.

On the other hand, I always used tap water and never had a problem.

You should also be boiling at least 2-3gal for a 5gal batch for the sake of hops utilization.
 
I agree. 10 mins for 1 gallon wort with 1G added isn't bad at all. But I use 2.5-3 gallons in the boil with 1.5-2lb's of DME for good hop utilization. That takes 20 minutes to cool down. Still good timing for little or no chill haze at that point come fridge time.
 
This is my first ever kit so I'm using the lame excuse that's what the directions said. I will up it for next time. Now I have a brand new turkey fryer so would a full boil be better even though it's a kit?

I was told by more than few that here in buffalo has surprisingly good water so I didn't boil. Being so close to the fresh water lakes I'm sure has something to do with it..
 
I neglected to mention that in the ice bath,I fill the empty space in the sink with ice,then Top that off with cold water. Chills down to pitch temp faster than using water then ice.
 
So when chillen it out whats considered taking to long? im sure the danger zone is the same beer as it is for food 40 - 140
 
I just brewed my first ever batch this weekend. Boil volume was 2.5 gallons and I cooled mine down by placing the pot in one of those plastic "tubs" with the rope handles, adding about 10 lbs of ice plus water, then adding more ice once the initial 10 lbs melted. Wort was down to 62 degrees in about 15 minutes. I transferred the wort to the fermentor and added 2.5 gallons of 64 degree bottled spring water. Pitched my yeast (Nottingham re-hydrated for 20 minutes and brought down to 65 degrees) into 63 degree wort. Placed the fermentor in the basement where the ambient temp is 62 degrees and within 18 hours the airlock was bubbling away.
 
Well,in my experience,to answer your question halister,anything longer than 20 minutes gives chill haze at fridge time. But I wouldn't call it dangerous. It will settle out in the bottles at fridge time. Just takes longer for them to cold condition. In other words,clear up again after initial chill,& get the co2 well into solution.
That said,the shorter the wort chill time,the less chill haze at fridge time. Not to mention the more cold break with shorter times,which is a good thing.
 
That makes sense...
I wish we had a real winter. I could just throw the lid on and stuff it in a snow bank ha ha
I have an old ice cream maker with a large ice bucket with the ropes...Thanks for jogging the old bean.
 
No problem man. We all need to get our thinkin right once in a while. now if this dang wind storm would quit playin hell with this site. Oh great,now lightning & thunder. Zeus & Thor must be at it again!...
 
the night before I bag the ice from both of my fridges (the both have ice makes FTW!!) and about 24 hours later the icemakers have replenished themselves so I have plenty of ice.

I go from flame off into the sink which is about half full of cold water with some ice already in it PLUS SALT!!!!! Remember, Salt is going to increase the heat transfer ability of ice water actually making it colder!!

I continually add ice into the bath stirring BOTH the bath AND the wort, Ive found that a slow stir the whole time releases a huge amount of heat fast as just leaving it in the bath is only cooling the sides and the bottom, not the center, so you need to move the wort to release the heat.

It takes me 15-20 mins to cool to approx 65* the additional 2gals added to the fermentor are similiar or slightly colder in temperature. I prefer to pitch a little colder than 68-70* just to be on the safer side.
 
halister said:
This is my first ever kit so I'm using the lame excuse that's what the directions said. I will up it for next time. Now I have a brand new turkey fryer so would a full boil be better even though it's a kit?

I was told by more than few that here in buffalo has surprisingly good water so I didn't boil. Being so close to the fresh water lakes I'm sure has something to do with it..

You are ok with just a 3gal boil, until you get a really good cooling process worked out. I moved up to full boils at the same time I got my wort chiller.

(don't tell anyone, but I used to chill by putting a lid on the pot and sticking it in the freezer for 4 hours. It worked out ok!)
 
Oh never thought about the salt. I'm going to stick withe 2 gallons for now. A buddy gave some old plate chillers. Ideas on how to use them as a wort chiller?
 
Salt! Why didn't I think of that...great call...though i'm rocking out 1-gallon batches so ice-bath chilling has never been an issue for me
 
I've thought about trying the salt thing myself,since my daughter's ice cream maker used salt on the ice surrounding the ice cream bin to make it freeze faster.
What I do now is put the BK in the sink,Then fill the empty space with ice,then top off with cold water. Usuallt chills down to 67-70F in 20 minutes.
 
I'm currently in Singapore. I have a wort chiller but the water here is warm so the best I can do is chill it down to about 90. I then let it sit overnight under the air conditioner, with an airlock, till the next day. by then it's at the proper temperature to pitch the yeast. No problems with the beer and it tastes great. There is no time limit to adding yeast to wort. You just have to get the temp down on your wort to stop any chemical changes in the sugars caused by heat.
 
I think I'm just going to get 8 feet of copper and make one. Besides I will need it if I go full boil which I want to.
I've read about hop reduction and placing malt extract in at different times?
 
Not sure what you mean by hop reduction? But late extract additions are getting more common. I do it all the time. I usually use 3lb bags of plain Dme in my recipes with an LME can. Half the DME (1.5lbs) goes into the partial boil for hop additions. At flame out,I add the remaining half of the DME & all the LME. Hop utilization is good,& color lighter,flavors cleaner.
 
I think I'm just going to get 8 feet of copper and make one. Besides I will need it if I go full boil which I want to.
I've read about hop reduction and placing malt extract in at different times?

May want to go to 25' of the soft copper.
I built an IC myself a few weeks ago and 25' was the perfect amount to be coiled and have the spouts clear the top of my 5 gallon kettle.
 
I agree, I have a 25ft and a 50ft copper wort chiller and the 25 just does the trick on a full boil but the 50ft takes care of it no problem. I live in FL and it is tough to get the water from the hose to cool my wort down below 70 so I will start out with just the tap water running through the wort chiller in the kettle then once the temp starts to drop slower, around 90, I use the other chiller as a prechiller in a bucket of ice and water. It gets me to whatever temp I want. :rockin:
 
I meant 18 ha ha 8 wouldn't get me far. Yeah 25 I should go for the few extra bucks.

Got mine at HD.
It was $18, IIRC for 25' already coiled in a box.
Should be on the shelf near the copper piping for plumbing.

If you don't have one, a pipebender makes the job real easy. They should have a set of 4 different sizes in the general area for about $10.
 
I agree, I have a 25ft and a 50ft copper wort chiller and the 25 just does the trick on a full boil but the 50ft takes care of it no problem. I live in FL and it is tough to get the water from the hose to cool my wort down below 70 so I will start out with just the tap water running through the wort chiller in the kettle then once the temp starts to drop slower, around 90, I use the other chiller as a prechiller in a bucket of ice and water. It gets me to whatever temp I want. :rockin:

I'm still rollin' stovetop and my 25' got a 4 gallon boil to 70° in about 15 minutes.
Probably wait till spring to bust out the turkey fryer and brew outside and then I'll see how well my garden hose does the job.
 
speaking of ice in a sink,here's a duh moment for me. I was filling the sink with water,then adding ice. It took an average of 40 minutes to get down to pitch temp. by reversing that paradigm,& filling to the top with ice,then topping off with water,I get it down to pitch temp in 20 minutes. Wort chillers are at the mercy of the water temp at any given time of year. winter easy,summer not so easy.
 
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