Wiring digram needed Please

[stevebell]

Please somebody help me with a wiring diagram .placed my order with Aubor today im buildig to control BIAB with step mash . Im will be running march pump continously through mash with RTD in a Tee junction in lid before the sprinkler head. I will also be running 4400w element . And also SSRV whith rehostat to control boil. Your help would be much apprichated.

1x march pump
1x 4500w element
1x 25A SSR (MGR-1D4825)
2 x External Mount Heat Sink for 25A SSR (HS25ET)
1x LED Indicator, 22 mm, Color Option Green
1 x Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 1NO 1NC, 22mm (SW2)
1 x Flashing Buzzer, 110 or 240V AC. 22 mm RED
1 x 25A Solid State Voltage Regulator, High power SCR, *SSVR (SSVR25A)** * * * Rheostat Option For 240V AC, 50Hz
1 x Liquid tight RTD sensor, 1.5 inch, 1/2 NPT Thread (PT100-L401/2NPT)** * * * Cable Option 8 ft Deluxe Cable
1 x LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V (IND-1) ** * * * LED Color Option Red*
1 x 1/4 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SYL-43X2) ** * * * Output Configuration Option SYL-4352P SSR Control, Ramp/Soak
1x Selector Switch, 3-Position Maintained 2 NO, 22mm (SW3)*1 x Emergency Stop (E-Stop) Switch, 22mm (SW6) *

 

[danb35]

Cross-posting is generally bad form--you've posted this same question several times in a number of different forums. Have you looked at any of the existing diagrams? There are a lot of them out there; there has to be one at least close to what you're wanting.

 

[stevebell]

Im sorry first time user ill keep hunting

 

[stlbeer]

Search for posts by P-J.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

I'm sure there is a diagram out there close enough to what you want. If you find that, someone might be able to help you modify it to fit your specific needs. Coming up with a diagram from scratch is a lot of effort to ask of random strangers, but there are some here willing to do that, too. Find something close and help us help you. We'll get you brewing!

 

[stevebell]

Hi there thanks for the reply i have attached a file which i found from p-j forum shows pretty much what im after, only difference for the pump and element power in running the Auber 3 way switch

Selector Position 1: keep the both channels open.
Selector Position 2: Keep one of the channel open, the other channel closed.
Selector Position 3: keep the both channels closed.

im wanting to know how to installl the 25A Solid State Voltage Regulator with the rheostat for boil control . Is it connected in series with the element/Pump SSR.
I want the rheostat to control the element at all times, does this make sence?
I want the pump to run both with the element ?
i also want to be able to switch the pump to run by itself with no element?

 

[stevebell]

Heres a link to the SSRV rheostat has a small wiring digram

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=332

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

Hi there thanks for the reply i have attached a file which i found from p-j forum shows pretty much what im after, only difference for the pump and element power in running the Auber 3 way switch

Selector Position 1: keep the both channels open.
Selector Position 2: Keep one of the channel open, the other channel closed.
Selector Position 3: keep the both channels closed.

I'm a little confused here. I'm assuming you're using channels to mean something about which compents get power? So by "keep the both channels open" you mean you want both the pump and the heating element on in position 1? Position 2 you want one off and one on? Which ones? Or when you say open are you using it the way that power is discussed, where open means OFF (IE there's no connection in the switch).

im wanting to know how to installl the 25A Solid State Voltage Regulator with the rheostat for boil control . Is it connected in series with the element/Pump SSR.

Why do you have an SSR for the pump?

I want the rheostat to control the element at all times, does this make sence?
I want the pump to run both with the element ?
i also want to be able to switch the pump to run by itself with no element?

I have to be honest, not much of this makes sense to me with what you're trying to accomplish. You want a 3 way switch that controls both the pump and the heating element, and turns the pump on with the element, but also just turns the pump on by itself? Why would you go with a 3 way switch for this, vs having two standard switches to run things?

Take a look over at www.theelectricbrewery.com - even if it's more complex than what you want to build, it will cover a lot of the terms and functions of the various components in a panel, so you can dial in on what you want.

 

[neild5]

I am also confused, if you are controlling the boil with a PID controller and SSR what is the reason for the manual rheostat and SSRV?

 

[crcusmonky]

Sounds like what high gravity brewing does a pwm with a pid. The pwm for manual boil control when stops the mash recirculation and the temp probe stops reading. And the pid is for mash recirculation. I too am am interested in recreating the ebc sv from highgravitybrew.com so if there is a diagram that would be sweet.

 

[stevebell]

That the exact system im building .you can control boil with pid if you dont mind cleaning up mess afterwards .im guessing that you connect the SSRV into number 7 anf 10 on the PID but because the element SSR is allready in 7 and 19 of the PID will this overload the PID ?? Or maybe do you wire the SSRV directly into he SSR that controls the element?

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

That the exact system im building .you can control boil with pid if you dont mind cleaning up mess afterwards .

Please tell me how boiling wort with a PWM is less messy than boiling wort with a PID?

 

[Abhitchc]

that wiring diagram will not work if you are running a 4400W element. You will need a diagram for a 220V system I believe.

 

[danb35]

Steve, there are PIDs out there with manual control. The only difference is that you set the output using buttons on the PID (0-100%) rather than a dial, but they will otherwise give you exactly the type of control you're looking for. Certainly a knob would be faster and simpler to set, and I don't know why none of the PID makers (to my knowledge) let you control the manual output with one, but there's no additional mess involved--at least not if you're using the right PID. And, it'll greatly simplify your wiring compared to trying to use two different devices to control the same element.