Why Wyeast?! Why?!!!

[BigRob]

I'm not sure White Labs will fix your FG problems, ensuring you have the proper cell count of viable yeast for the batch you intend to ferment would go a long way in preventing stuck fermentation.

Regardless of the statements on the websites and packaging, vials and smack packs are giving you less than recommended cell counts (Dry Yeast is too if rehydrated improperly/not rehydrated).

You should be making a starter for the majority of your brews. It's pretty simple, you don't need fancy lab equipment, just a growler, malt extract and some tinfoil. Tons of threads around here with info on making starters.

 

[JoeBronco]

BigRob... Wyeast, Whitelabs, safale and just about every other yeast company SUGGEST you to use a starter either on the package or on the website. I know both wyeast and WL have a "how to" on there website. I agree with you that it doesn't take a rocket surgeon to figure this out, just hard headed people refuse to see it.

 

[BigRob]

I think part of the blame rests on Wyeast and White Labs. I know when I started brewing a few years ago the packages clearly implied you should just pitch the vial/smackpack into cooled/aerated wort, up to 1.060 I believe.

There's a lot of conflicting information and marketing talk out there for a newer brewer to absorb and sift through. As well as the ever present poor advice/old wives tales from LHBS employees and brew-buddies when it comes to yeast.

 

[JoeBronco]

Thats why its best to do your own research...

 

[jetmac]

I think part of the blame rests on Wyeast and White Labs. I know when I started brewing a few years ago the packages clearly implied you should just pitch the vial/smackpack into cooled/aerated wort, up to 1.060 I believe.

There's a lot of conflicting information and marketing talk out there for a newer brewer to absorb and sift through. As well as the ever present poor advice/old wives tales from LHBS employees and brew-buddies when it comes to yeast.

Well OP said his brew reached FG so there is not a problem with the yeast just his misunderstanding that yeast is suppose to keep producing co2 after they quit working.

But I do agree IMHO that more yeast is needed than what is stated by the yeast companies.
Although, there are plenty of brewers that make good beer just pitching 1 pack into a 1.060 wort or sprinkling 1 pack of dry yeast into their wort. If they only knew they could make "better" beer, pitching more yeast

 

[JoeBronco]

Its funny you use 1.060 wort... That is the key gravity that wyeast uses to say that if you go above 1.060 you need a starter.

The Activator™ package contains a minimum of 100 billion cells in a yeast slurry.. The Activator™ is designed to directly inoculate 5 gallons of standard strength ale wort (1.034-1.060 SG) with professional pitching rates. For lagers, we recommend inoculating the wort at warm temperatures (68-70°F/ 20-21°C), waiting for signs of fermentation, and then adjusting to the desired temperature. Alternatively, for pitching into cold conditions (34-58°F/ 1-14°C) or higher gravity wort, we recommend increasing this pitching rate. This can be achieved by pitching additional Activator™ packages or by making a starter culture. Please see the Pitch Rate section for additional information.

 

[jetmac]

Its funny you use 1.060 wort... That is the key gravity that wyeast uses to say that if you go above 1.060 you need a starter.

Uhh, if you read what I quoted, you would see that was intentional not coincidental.

 

[Erroneous]

OP, I'm concerned with your fermenting process. Healthy yeast generally will be done after 3 weeks. If you are getting stuck fermentations and slow fermentations then it could very well be that you are under pitching. A packet of dry yeast (according to Mr malty, which I recommend you Google and use) 1 11 gram packet is usually enough for most beers. Not to beat a dead horse, but airlock activity is all but useless. I think you may benefit from doing more research on yeast care.

 

[Fid]

I'm with everyone else here.

1.) Do some research before you go pointing fingers.

2.) Your yeast (on this batch at least) seems to be working as expected.

3.) A ten degree change might seem insignificant to you but can you imagine what that would be like to a tiny little yeast cell?!?!

4.) Don't be so defensive towards peoples responses to your posts! If you are receiving harsh criticism it is likely because you are either doing something out of the ordinary (something that you shouldn't be doing) or, in this case, complaining about a non-issue (something that you shouldn't be complaining about).

The greatest asset of this home brew "community" is the ability to gain knowledge from other brewers. Use every bit of criticism that comes your way constructively! Your beer sounds like its totally fine and your yeast has preformed exactly the way that everyone here would expect it to (which should be a hint that nothing is wrong).

If I were to post a thread right now complaining about Citra Hops being too intense because I just brewed a batch with 25 oz of Citra and then dry hopped with 6 oz of Citra would you jump down my throat and tell me that I went WAY overboard? ABSOLUTELY YOU WOULD!!!

I'm not trying to be a d*ck but 9.9 times out of 10 the problems that arise on HBT are a direct result of the OP's process... not the OP's ingredients. For Christ sakes, The Vikings brewed beer that they enjoyed and they had no idea wtf yeast were but they did know what their process was. Read some books... read some forum posts regarding topics that interest you... absorb every last drop of information that you can and treat every beer you brew and every question that you ask as a lesson which you can learn from.

Today's lesson is - a beer which has reached its FG will not necessarily continue to produce airlock activity. Simple as that.