Why No Controller Based Induction Rig?

[Hwk-I-St8]

Looking at the recirculating BIAB (bag or basket), they're all based on a heating element in the wort. This isn't really an issue on it's own, but it does introduce limitations due to the volume of wort below the bottom of the basket or bag that's needed to accommodate the heating element. This seems to cause issues with high gravity beers. The Brew Boss is a good example where larger grain bills for a 5 gallon batch won't be completely immersed in the wort because of the space around the element.

It seems like a great solution would be to use an induction system so that you don't have that "dead space" around the element. The issue is that there's no system that allows feedback control of an induction burner.

How come nobody is building that? How difficult would it be for a DIY project?

 

[lump42]

@Weezy did it in 2015. Here's the link https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/induction-hack-add-an-external-probe.518213/

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Use a manual induction burner like the adcraft 240v 3.5kw unit and you could set it up to work with any controller you wanted-- no modding to the induction burner necessary.

 

[TexasWine]

Good responses above. But also, 3500 watts might not be enough "umph" for some people.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I saw

Use a manual induction burner like the adcraft 240v 3.5kw unit and you could set it up to work with any controller you wanted-- no modding to the induction burner necessary.

Yeah, I discovered that from the link in lump42's post. Would I combine that with a standard PID controller...somethign like this?

I wasn't sure if controllers like that output on/off or if they output a power relative to what's needed based on feedback. Whatever I use would have to be 220 and be able to handle the current demands of the adcraft.

 

[lump42]

Good responses above. But also, 3500 watts might not be enough "umph" for some people.

Which is why most are probably using heating elements inside the kettle. 5000+ watt induction units are fairly pricey compared to the elements. My quick search put 5000W induction unit at ~$650.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

But the reality is that 3500w is really fine for even 10 gallon batches. 5.5kw would provide the opportunity to reach temps faster, but induction is as efficient as an immersion element, and 3.5kw would serve many brewers quite nicely actually.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I'd love to know how long it would take to get 8.5 G up to strike temp with a 3500 watt system. Also, how long to get 6.5G from 150 to boiling. Given my crappy propane burner now, I'm guessing the times wouldn't change much...3500 watts may be faster.

Here's what I'd like to do:

1. Switch over my cooler mash tun rig to heat/boil water with an induction unit. This involves only getting the unit and having a source for 220 V power
2. Eventually, get a PID unit and a bag for my kettle and switch over to single vessel recirculating BIAB. This involves getting the PID unit and a bag. Also, I guess, an inline port for the temp probe (or, alternatively, use the existing temp gauge port on my kettle).
3. Eventually switch to a SS basket instead of the bag.
4. Get a larger kettle so that I can do high gravity on the recirculating BIAB.

After step 2, I can move my brewing indoors. Going electric alone isn't enough since I really don't have room for the 3 vessel setup in my laundry room.

After step 4 I'll be where I want to be: an indoor recirculating BIAB brewhouse with full gravity range capability.

 

[beermanpete]

1. Switch over my cooler mash tun rig to heat/boil water with an induction unit. This involves only getting the unit and having a source for 220 V power

If your cooler mash tun is plastic it will not work with an induction cooker.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

I sure hope the OP realizes he would need an induction capable (i.e. metal-- Bayou Classics are a great affordable option) mash tun to use an induction burner!

OP, if you want to play with numbers, times to heat, boil, etc. download this great excel spreadsheet below. As for a quick answer-- you could expect about 18 minutes to take 6.5g from 150 to boil.

Here is the link for the spreadsheet calculator:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ric-heat.xls&usg=AOvVaw3pgs7ENLkD_31IeSCKFdcm

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

If your cooler mash tun is plastic it will not work with an induction cooker.

I would just use the induction burner in place of my crappy propane burner. Just like any cooler mash tun, I'll add the already heated water.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I sure hope the OP realizes he would need an induction capable (i.e. metal-- Bayou Classics are a great affordable option) mash tun to use an induction burner!

OP, if you want to play with numbers, times to heat, boil, etc. download this great excel spreadsheet below. As for a quick answer-- you could expect about 18 minutes to take 6.5g from 150 to boil.

Here is the link for the spreadsheet calculator:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjw6-bH1snZAhVK8IMKHXtHA9kQFggpMAA&url=http://gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls&usg=AOvVaw3pgs7ENLkD_31IeSCKFdcm

Thanks for the link, I'll check that out. I already have an induction capable kettle to heat mash water in. Then, at first, I'd mash in a cooler. Later I'd BIAB in the kettle.

 

[ZmannR2]

SS Brewtech kettles are induction capable btw

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Thanks, but I already have a Brewbuilt 10 G which is induction capable and, if/when I upgrade to a larger one, I'll either go with another one of those or a spike if I need custom fittings.

I love the brewbuilt. The cutout in the lid is great when I'm chilling...especially in the summer. I run the IC arms and WP arm through there and drape a sanitized tea towel over it to keep the bugs out. Works like a champ.

I seriously looked at the SS Brewtech but ultimately decided I wanted to go with welded fittings.