Who has a True TDD kegerator? Question?

[lucas-3]

This is for anyone with a TDD-1, 2, 3 or 4. I have a older(brown one) TDD-3 and I have it in my basement. I have cleaned it up, painted it black, new door gaskets, etc. It gets super cold. However, because it is a commercial unit that is supposed to drain into floor drain(I don't have one) there is water after a couple weeks all over my floor. Where does the condensation drain from? I can't find where the water is coming out of this thing. The compressor is also pretty loud, I wish I could quiet it up. If anybody has any tips, hints or suggestions that worked with your TDD please let me know!

 

[raouliii]

The TRUE commercial coolers operate on a continuous cooling / defrost cycle, which is designed to keep the interior of the cooler dry. The thermostat probe is positioned to monitor the actual temperature of the evaporator coil, which is cold enough (<30F) to form frost during the cooling portion of the cycle. Once it reaches this temperature, it goes into the defrost portion of the cycle, wherein the compressor turns off and the evaporator coil is allowed to warm to a temperature well above freezing (>40F) and the frost melts. Then the cycle begins again. Thermostat adjustment changes the lowest evaporator temperature achieved and therefore the average temperature of the cooler.

There should be a vinyl tube that drops down from the evaporator enclosure. The lower end of that vinyl tube is where a drain pan should be located. It is usually near the compressor/condensor coil, where the heat and air movement evaporates the water in the tray.

Does your basement have high humidity?

 

[lucas-3]

Thanks for quick reply! There is a hose there, but the pan is bone dry. I used a 18" piece of wire to see if there was a clog, but nothing. Should I try a longer wire to check for clog. The evaporator is where the tower fans are, correct? So if that hose is clogged would it drain through the insulation between the skin and interior metal? In the summer it is rather high, I do use a dehumidifier, though. Thanks again for your help!

 

[raouliii]

If there is a break in the vinyl tube then you could get water draining into the wall. The evaporator drain or the vinyl tube may be clogged and the evaporator pan could be overflowing.

There should be removable access panels in the interior that may shed some light on your problem.

 

[t_d_harvey]

The TRUE commercial coolers operate on a continuous cooling / defrost cycle, which is designed to keep the interior of the cooler dry. The thermostat probe is positioned to monitor the actual temperature of the evaporator coil, which is cold enough (<30F) to form frost during the cooling portion of the cycle. Once it reaches this temperature, it goes into the defrost portion of the cycle, wherein the compressor turns off and the evaporator coil is allowed to warm to a temperature well above freezing (>40F) and the frost melts. Then the cycle begins again. Thermostat adjustment changes the lowest evaporator temperature achieved and therefore the average temperature of the cooler.

There should be a vinyl tube that drops down from the evaporator enclosure. The lower end of that vinyl tube is where a drain pan should be located. It is usually near the compressor/condensor coil, where the heat and air movement evaporates the water in the tray.

Does your basement have high humidity?

I also have one of these and every so often I have a problem with frost build up around the fan inside. it gets to the point thus I have to unplug the unit to get the fan to turn off and let it defrost. The fan starts getting really loud because of it hitting ice that has built up. Any ideas on why it is not automatically defrosting. Problem happens maybe very 4 or 5 months.

To the initiator of the post, sorry to hijack but I had the same problem as you at first. My solution was to intercept the drain tube and run it to a sink drain that is near the kegerator. Not sure if you are as fortunate to have a drain that is close.

 

[raouliii]

I also have one of these and every so often I have a problem with frost build up around the fan inside. it gets to the point thus I have to unplug the unit to get the fan to turn off and let it defrost. The fan starts getting really loud because of it hitting ice that has built up. Any ideas on why it is not automatically defrosting. Problem happens maybe very 4 or 5 months.

To the initiator of the post, sorry to hijack but I had the same problem as you at first. My solution was to intercept the drain tube and run it to a sink drain that is near the kegerator. Not sure if you are as fortunate to have a drain that is close.

Is it possible that it doesn't have the original thermostat? Do you have the thermostat set to its limit? Are you using any external controller/thermostat? It could be a door seal problem which results in too much humidity entering the unit.

You can get an idea if it is cycling normally by monitoring the air exiting the evaporator section. It should drop to well below 32degF while the compressor is on and then rise to around 40degF after the compressor shuts off. Then the cycle should begin again.

 

[t_d_harvey]

From the info I got from previous owner is that it has all original parts. I am using the internal thermostat. I have it set at a about 4. Think it goes up to 9. At 4 gets plenty cold. Air temp inside around 32 usually. I am not always around to monitor shut off and on. I do notice that normally when frost begins to build that the compressor usually continues to run.

 

[raouliii]

From the info I got from previous owner is that it has all original parts. I am using the internal thermostat. I have it set at a about 4. Think it goes up to 9. At 4 gets plenty cold. Air temp inside around 32 usually. I am not always around to monitor shut off and on. I do notice that normally when frost begins to build that the compressor usually continues to run.

Is it possible that the evaporator fan is not running at full speed or is stopping and starting? That would allow frost to slowly build up. Unfortunately, the other thing that will create frost buildup is a low refrigerant charge but if the evaporator is getting the output air temperature down into the 20's, that is not likely the case.

Yes, as frost build-up occurs on the evaporator, cooling efficiency suffers, eventually, to the point that very little cooling occurs.

 

[t_d_harvey]

From what I can tell it is running at full speed, at least what I know of as full speed. I have never seen the fan stop either.

is it possible that maybe my setup is the problem? It is built-in under a cabinet. I am attaching a picture. also it is upstairs and I keep the room temp at about 77/78 because no one is ever up there and I only go up there to fill my mug.

 

[orangehero]

You can try raising the cutout temperature:
http://appliance911seabreeze.com/T-72F_Service_Manual.pdf

 

[t_d_harvey]

Thanks ill see if that helps orange

 

[raouliii]

It looks like the unit is mounted into cabinetry. There must be adequate airflow across the condensor coil to achieve efficient cooling.

Adequate airflow means, ambient temperature, room air, is available to be easily moved through the condensor coil and exhausted back into the room air, and NOT back into the condensor.

 

[t_d_harvey]

That's is what I thought my problem may be. During the winter I do not recall any problems. I've only had it for a year, so I will monitor it through the summer and find a happy room temp.