Whirlfloc Question

[MrMista]

From my understanding whirlfloc works by helping to create more cold break in the kettle when chilling. Would it still work well for me even when it always takes a long time for me to chill my wort? With a copper immersion chiller (which is pre chilled by another immersion chiller in an ice bath) it can still take around 45 minutes to chill a 5 gallon batch.

I also like to pour into my fermenter through a strainer like this one: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produ...d=889&osCsid=c5bcd5a0c971408fa33ef048a1e70843. Would this end up catching that cold break or would it just flow through right into the bucket? I used to siphon from the kettle into the bucket but that takes longer, and IMO is less sanitary.

 

[TXjayhawk]

I thought whirfloc was to create more HOT break rather than cold. Chilling your beer quickly will give you the cold break whereas whirfloc help coagulate proteins to facilitate the hot break.

And to add, when I add whirfloc to the boil kettle, I immediately see white chunks in the boil. When I chill I don't take any of the hot break material and take the wort from 200 to 65 degrees in about 10 minutes with my counter flow chiller. I get lots of cold break material.

 

[MrMista]

How solid is hot break material? Do you think it would pass through a strainer or get caught?

 

[Cainepolo12]

I use a funnel with a strainer and typically have very little break in the trub. It's hard to quantify exactly what you're asking but I think you have a good method. In the end, whirlfloc works well.

 

[MrMista]

Thanks Cainepolo, yea I can see how I'm not explaining my question well. I've never really had any hot break so I am not sure what its consistency is. If it were loosly clumped together it could pass through the strainer when pouring chilled wort into my fermentation bucket. But if it were more firm like jello, it would probably stay in the strainer. If that makes sense.

 

[Cainepolo12]

I just take the approach that if it's in the trub it's in the trub. Shouldn't affect anything in terms of fermentation.

 

[BigFloyd]

With a copper immersion chiller (which is pre chilled by another immersion chiller in an ice bath) it can still take around 45 minutes to chill a 5 gallon batch.

Something is wrong there. Are you frequently stirring the wort (with a sanitized spoon) while you are chilling? That is essential when using an immersion chiller.

One thing that helps when using whirlfloc is to, after chilling, cover the kettle with a sanitized lid (or foil) and let it sit 15-20 minutes to allow a chance for the suspended gunk to settle out.

 

[Stauffbier]

I thought whirfloc was to create more HOT break rather than cold. Chilling your beer quickly will give you the cold break whereas whirfloc help coagulate proteins to facilitate the hot break..

Whirlfloc helps to drop out the cold break, not the hot break. Hot break occurs when the liquid first starts to boil. Cold break occurs when the wort has been chilled (hence the name "cold" break), and whirlfloc helps it to drop out.

I add whirlfolc at 5 minutes left in the boil. After chilling I drain my kettle through a ball valve into the fermenter. The dip tube leaves most of the cold break material in the kettle, but some makes it into the fermenter. The whirlfloc still manages to help most of the proteins drop out in the fermenter even though it is a kettle fining. Once heavy fermentation begins all the proteins get churned up again, but after fermentation slows they drop back out. Given enough time the beer will clear, and all the junk will drop out into the trub.

 

[WissaBrewGuy]

Whirlfloc/Irish Moss is essentially negative charged ions that coagulate proteins together. These proteins then gain mass as they gather together. The Whirlfloc will coagulate these proteins during the cold break since you add it during the last 10-15min of the boil. Where Whirlfloc really does its work is in an extended whirlpool where you are collecting trub and break material in the center and after fermentation. After fermentation ends and the beer is somewhat still, the benefits of whirlfloc are realized as the protein clumps that were forced to be in suspension due to the yeast activity in the beer during fermentation fall out of suspension leaving you with a more clarified beer. Cold crashing the beer will assist in this process.

 

[MrMista]

Something is wrong there. Are you frequently stirring the wort (with a sanitized spoon) while you are chilling? That is essential when using an immersion chiller.

One thing that helps when using whirlfloc is to, after chilling, cover the kettle with a sanitized lid (or foil) and let it sit 15-20 minutes to allow a chance for the suspended gunk to settle out.

I've been stirring it using the chiller itself, about every 10 minutes when I walk out to check the temp. I'll try using a sanitized spoon this weekend, that would really stir it up a lot better. I also leave the lid on my wort, to prevent things from floating in but maybe that is overkill.

 

[TXjayhawk]

Whirlfloc helps to drop out the cold break, not the hot break. Hot break occurs when the liquid first starts to boil. Cold break occurs when the wort has been chilled (hence the name "cold" break), and whirlfloc helps .

Yes I know the difference of hot and cold break. After posting I did a little more research and I have seen postings saying it aids in hot break and cold break. I just found on Beersmith.com that it says it aids in cold break. So I stand corrected.

I was thinking hot break as when I dropped it in the boil, I would see white gunk in the boil in much greater quantity than before. It also seemed to me I had more cold break using my counter flow chiller than an ice bath(pre chiller days).

 

[TXjayhawk]

Now as I read further down on Beersmith.com it says "whirfloc does a great job precipitating proteins at the end of the boil".

So it seems whirfloc helps in both?

 

[BigFloyd]

I've been stirring it using the chiller itself, about every 10 minutes when I walk out to check the temp. I'll try using a sanitized spoon this weekend, that would really stir it up a lot better. I also leave the lid on my wort, to prevent things from floating in but maybe that is overkill.

I'm thinking that, with your setup and running tap/hose water through the pre-chiller and chiller, you ought to be getting down below 70*F in about 15-20 minutes.

 

[afr0byte]

Now as I read further down on Beersmith.com it says "whirfloc does a great job precipitating proteins at the end of the boil".

So it seems whirfloc helps in both?

Hot break is the initial coagulation you get at the beginning of the boil, so, no. It just helps with cold break formation.

 

[TXjayhawk]

Ok, so I learned something about beer today. I was thinking hot break occurred during boiling, not just the beginning of the boil. I'm just a relative newbie (brewing 1 year) that is still learning.

 

[wxman73]

Interesting to hear how long it takes to chill your wort. I have the same problem, but just use a copper chiller. I give it a stir about every 10 minutes. Maybe this weekend i will try stirring near continuously for the first 15 or 20 minutes or so. See how it goes. All though had i brewed 2 days ago i could have just put the kettle outside in the minus 11F temps. Hah!