Which kettle for BIAB?

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vance

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I've been feeling the urge for a kettle with a valve and volume markings lately... probably 15 gallon, since I do 5 gallon full volume mashes and that will give me plenty of room for BIAB, and more than enough if I ever switch to a mash tun.

Which company should I go through though? Spike? Ss Brewtech? There seems to be a lot of options with not a ton of difference, as far as I can tell.
 
I recently got the SS Brewtech and it works fine. Glad to see you are starting with 15 gallons. I started at 10 and "had" to get a bigger pot.
 
Those are both quality products. Choice between them, IMO, would be personal preference and/or price. It really depends on how much you want to spend, and if you would DIY the valve and markings.
 
15g will give you plenty of room. Until recently, I made 5-6g BIAB DIPAs and pale ales in a 10g kettle and while it got pretty close to the top, it still had some room. So 15g should be a piece of cake. I have a Megapot from NB and its been pretty solid.
 
Those are both quality products. Choice between them, IMO, would be personal preference and/or price. It really depends on how much you want to spend, and if you would DIY the valve and markings.

I don't really have the tools or expertise to DIY a valve, and I tried doing markings on my current (11 gallon bayou classic) kettle with no success in the etching method, so I'd rather just buy one.
 
I have a Spike and like the beautiful welding they do.

Same here. Just something to consider, less head space = will hold temp better. I've never had a problem brewing any 1.070 and lower brews in my 10 gallon, doing full volume mashes.
 
Same here. Just something to consider, less head space = will hold temp better. I've never had a problem brewing any 1.070 and lower brews in my 10 gallon, doing full volume mashes.


Same here. I do 5.5 in the fermenter with my Spike 10G without issue. Much easier to hold temp. My 15 gallon is collecting dust in the garage.
 
I have a spike 20 gallon that I use for electric BIAB 11 gallon batches. My understanding about the difference between Spike and SS is that Spike welds the fittings on and SS just puts holes in the kettle and then installs the fittings. They're not welded and impossible to be 100% sanitary.

There's no question that Spike is built better just going by the welds.
 
Alright, I'm just going to say it. Why does a weld on a brewkettle need to be clean? It's being boiled for an hour, anything in there is going to die as long as there's no mycotoxins produced by mold, which shouldn't be happening if you're rinsing or cleaning your brew kettle, then you're fine.

It's not like it's the fermenter.
 
I've been feeling the urge for a kettle with a valve and volume markings lately... probably 15 gallon, since I do 5 gallon full volume mashes and that will give me plenty of room for BIAB, and more than enough if I ever switch to a mash tun.

Which company should I go through though? Spike? Ss Brewtech? There seems to be a lot of options with not a ton of difference, as far as I can tell.

You will be fine with either kettle. I recently got a SS brewtech because I wanted ball valve and markings that fit my budget. Absoultely love it. Get some camlocks and silicone hose for the transfer and you will be set with either kettle. You cannot make a wrong choice here.

Edit: I will note that leaks are not an issue with the SS Brewtech. They are desinged properly and as long as you do not over tighten you will not experience a leak. I also like weldless because I can take the parts off and soak them after use. This is a personal preference. I know welded fittings have advantages, but weldless seem fine with me.
 
I just bought a 20 gallon SS Brewtech kettle and doing a quick 30 minute boil of water to get my boil off rate. I'm very happy with my purchase. I was on the fence between a 15 or 20 gallon and decided to go with the 20. Reason being is I maxed out my keggle (15.5 gallons) doing an 8 gallon BIAB batch last summer and didn't want to encounter that again. I also hope to get some 11 gallon batches (split between two fermenters) this summer.

For me the price was slightly lower than the Spike kettle which was a factor. The other was wanting the ability to take everything apart to soak and clean it really well. I'm sure the Spike products are great too. So I doubt you will go wrong either way. Good luck with your decision!
 
Spike's are pricey, but they are damn nice kettles. I started with a 15 gallon and purchased a 10 afterwards to use indoors.
 
They're not welded and impossible to be 100% sanitary.

There's no question that Spike is built better just going by the welds.

Don't bring up the Boogeyman​ if he doesn't exist 😀 Weldless fittings are just fine for single vessel BIAB. Welded isn't better, just different.

OP, if I were you, I'd save myself some coin and get this for $130.

Bayou Classic 1064 Stainless 16-Gallon Stockpot with Spigot and Vented Lid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007V493PG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'd then take the money I saved and buy one or two Hot Rods from Brewhardware.com.

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

Then you'll be all set for electric brewing! Seriously, I think going 120v electric was one of the best brewing decisions I've made.
 
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I would just add that weldless fittings are a bit of PITA as they need a heat shield toward the bottom to avoid scorching the silicon seal. I have a 100k BTU Blichmann and it gets very hot by the valve. Welded fittings wouldn't have this issue.
Also, double the pot size for a batch, i.e. 20 gal pot for 10 gal batch. I have a 16 gal Bayou pot and it is too small for a full volume mash. I have to mash in smaller volume and add water before the boil. I will probably upgrade to 20 gal soon.
 
I would just add that weldless fittings are a bit of PITA as they need a heat shield toward the bottom to avoid scorching the silicon seal. I have a 100k BTU Blichmann and it gets very hot by the valve. Welded fittings wouldn't have this issue.

Not a problem with electric!
 
Don't bring up the Boogeyman​ if he doesn't exist 😀 Weldless fittings are just fine for single vessel BIAB. Welded isn't better, just different.

OP, if I were you, I'd save myself some coin and get this for $130.

Bayou Classic 1064 Stainless 16-Gallon Stockpot with Spigot and Vented Lid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007V493PG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'd then take the money I saved and buy one or two Hot Rods from Brewhardware.com.

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

Then you'll be all set for electric brewing! Seriously, I think going 120v electric was one of the best brewing decisions I've made.

For now, I'm fine with my propane burner I think. My apartment next year is pretty small, so propane in the backyard is probably easier. Besides, I desperately need volume markings on my kettle which the Bayou doesn't have, and I haven't had any success with DIY techniques.
 
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For now, I'm fine with my propane burner I think. My apartment next year is pretty small, so propane in the backyard is probably easier. Besides, I desperately need volume markings on my kettle which the Bayou doesn't have, and I haven't had any success with DIY techniques.

I've got the HotRod @Texaswine linked. If you do decide electric, you can't go wrong with the HotRod. I'd take mine over a propane burner any day!
 
It's kinda hard to look into your brewing future, but I always try to think one step beyond where I am now.

I am typically a 5.5G brewer since I keg. I suppose if I was really loving a particular beer I may want to do 11G batches, but not as a rule. So I'll stick with 5.5G as my normal volume.

I BIAB on propane burner so I wanted a D shaped basket from Arbor Fab. The flat side will cost you some volume of grains, but it will keep a bag from snagging on a therm probe or a dip tube from the drain valve.

I just did a 5.75G batch (7.5G strike water) with 14# of grains using an Arbor Fab basket in my 10G Blichmann kettle and had a shade of room to spare. Not selling you on ideas, just sharing what my particular kettle will handle.

The two things I found important about buying a 15G which is what I almost did.....7.5G of strike water will not reach the thermometer probe. And excessive headspace may give the contents more opportunity to cool during mashing. I did lots of searching and settled on a 10G kettle, and not once have I considered this a mistake.
 
Don't bring up the Boogeyman​ if he doesn't exist 😀 Weldless fittings are just fine for single vessel BIAB. Welded isn't better, just different.

My point here is that if you want to take extra time and disassemble different fittings...go for it. Or, just be half assed and leave it there for the next batch to 'kill stuff.'

Or, better yet, drill your own holes in a blank kettle and save a bunch of coin. I see no reason to purchase SS brewtech over any other brand that just punches holes in their kettles.

OP if you want premium get welded fittings. If you don't want premium, get anything else.

Personally I use a no valve on a concord kettle I bought on ebay for $80. I also use a regular voile bag and a ladder to attach a pulley. This is what I do for small 5 gallon batches.

For 10 gallon batches I use a 20 gallon spike kettle that has several welded TC fittings for an electric element and circulation. I also use a stainless basket and electric hoist.

My point is that I have a premium set up and a very basic set up. Get what you want. Premium does not really mean anything if you're just trying to brew beer. But seriously, for keeping things clean, you would need to take all of those fittings off of the kettle after each brew.
 
My point here is that if you want to take extra time and disassemble different fittings...go for it. Or, just be half assed and leave it there for the next batch to 'kill stuff.'

Or, better yet, drill your own holes in a blank kettle and save a bunch of coin. I see no reason to purchase SS brewtech over any other brand that just punches holes in their kettles.

OP if you want premium get welded fittings. If you don't want premium, get anything else.

Personally I use a no valve on a concord kettle I bought on ebay for $80. I also use a regular voile bag and a ladder to attach a pulley. This is what I do for small 5 gallon batches.

For 10 gallon batches I use a 20 gallon spike kettle that has several welded TC fittings for an electric element and circulation. I also use a stainless basket and electric hoist.

My point is that I have a premium set up and a very basic set up. Get what you want. Premium does not really mean anything if you're just trying to brew beer. But seriously, for keeping things clean, you would need to take all of those fittings off of the kettle after each brew.

Agreed. Get no more than you need, or in some cases want, but no less either.

I do have some personal experience with weldless fittings to share. After about a year of using my eBIAB system, I read somewhere about the horrors of off flavors introduced from not cleaning their two-piece valves. That motivated me to take mine apart and see what I had, and I was sure I would find some bad stuff.

Took them apart, and they looked brand new. So with that, I put them back together and haven't thought about it again, until now, a year later.

Just this past week I took apart some other threaded fittings that use plumbers tape. It was a similar story, save the fact that the plumbers tape looked a little ragged. I'll soak and scrub them for good measure while I've got them taken apart, but had I not, they would have continued to function.

What I have found since reading that initial article is that using external heat sources, like propane and natural gas, is the cause of things like gunky valves and weldless fittings because the heat they are putting off also heats up the fittings. With electric, the heat is being applied directly to the wort, not your kettle drain valve that needs a heat shield to keep it from melting, nor the bulkhead.

So to the OP, don't be discouraged from buying welded or threaded. Just don't be fooled into thinking that threaded tri-clamp fittings are the solution to all your woes :)
 
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