When to repassivate

[h22lude]

Does all stainless need to go through a passivating process? I believe a lot of the kettles tell you to do it but what about other parts like valves and kegging parts?

 

[acidrain]

If it is rusty, then it needs to be cleaned/passivated.
If it's not rusty (look for tiny specs of rust from welding/grinding/drilling spatter) then it's fine.

 

[day_trippr]

I suspect fittings and faucets and stuff like that get a serious post-machining passivation (sp?) treatment in manufacturing that home brewers may be challenged to duplicate. I've never seen a speck of rust on any fitting or faucet.

Otoh, you'd think welded kettles would also get a thorough treatment but I've certainly seen plenty of pics on HBT of rust-spotted seams that clearly required intervention.

As well, I recently saw an SS hex on HBT that had clear issues with rust. It wasn't as obvious if the rust emanated from fabrication of the hex (which could be explained by abrasion from a bending jig) or actually sprouted from the weld line. Either way it was bad juju.

Anyway...at the end of the day I agree with acidrain: if you see rust, fix it, otherwise have another beer

Cheers!

 

[h22lude]

My tailpieces definitely had rust. Bought new ones. Beer time!

 

[day_trippr]

Sure it was rust and not exposed brass?
Wouldn't be the first time that has happened...

Cheers!

 

[h22lude]

Sure it was rust and not exposed brass?
Wouldn't be the first time that has happened...

Cheers!

It is possible it was exposed brass. I thought it was SS but it could have been chromed. I wanted 90° ones anyway.

 

[Horseflesh]

My stainless fermenter came with instructions to repassivate once a year or so.

 

[h22lude]

My stainless fermenter came with instructions to repassivate once a year or so.

Did it say the best way to do it?

 

[jwelch1103]

If it is rusty, then it needs to be cleaned/passivated.
If it's not rusty (look for tiny specs of rust from welding/grinding/drilling spatter) then it's fine.

I agree.

If there is no rust present then passivation is not required.

 

[jimmayhugh]

Did it say the best way to do it?

You can use Starsan, which is mostly phosphoric acid, or Bar Keepers Friend, which is mainly oxalic acid.

You'll need 1oz of Starsan per gallon of water, or a thinly applied paste of oxalic acid. Let it sit for an hour or more, and rinse.

If you have etched volume marking on the kettle. don't use oxalic acid, as it will re-passivate the markings, making them hard to read.

 

[Horseflesh]

The instructions from Ss Brewtech are what @jimmyhugh wrote.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c82ic4jtmjxewvb/cleaning instructions A4.pdf?oref=e

"It’s a good idea to passivate your stainless steel equipment with an acid based solution. Filling the vessel with StarSan at 1oz per gallon of water or other acid passivation solution at the recommended strength and at a temperature of 70-80F for 20 minutes, followed by an air dry is all that is needed... To ensure the longest life for you stainless steel, you should passivate at least once a year or immediately after you may have done anything to scratch the surface."

 

[h22lude]

The instructions from Ss Brewtech are what @jimmyhugh wrote.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c82ic4jtmjxewvb/cleaning instructions A4.pdf?oref=e

"It’s a good idea to passivate your stainless steel equipment with an acid based solution. Filling the vessel with StarSan at 1oz per gallon of water or other acid passivation solution at the recommended strength and at a temperature of 70-80F for 20 minutes, followed by an air dry is all that is needed... To ensure the longest life for you stainless steel, you should passivate at least once a year or immediately after you may have done anything to scratch the surface."

Damn that's a lot of starsan lol 15oz

 

[augiedoggy]

You can use Starsan, which is mostly phosphoric acid, or Bar Keepers Friend, which is mainly oxalic acid.

You'll need 1oz of Starsan per gallon of water, or a thinly applied paste of oxalic acid. Let it sit for an hour or more, and rinse.

If you have etched volume marking on the kettle. don't use oxalic acid, as it will re-passivate the markings, making them hard to read.

my understanding from use is the fact that BKF is a fine abrasive powder and will actually remove the etching when wiped since it only on the very surface layer..

Ive also read that even boiling water will passivate them... only when the outside protective layer is compromised like with a scouring pad or similar does this become a real issue..

 

[Bilsch]

Starsan does nothing to passivate stainless. It will not remove any iron from surface to enrichen the chromium layer. This is the function of an acid in the passivation process. The only 5Star product that will do that is Acid cleaner #5 which contains HNO3. Nitric is nasty to work with so a better alternative is a 4% citric acid solution @ 180f for a few hours. It is the best, easiest, cheapest and safest way to go.