When to rack to secondary?

[Rastaman]

Everything I 've read to date about racking to secondary seems to be a little light on details. I've read that I should transfer to secondary before the primary has completely finished (with further descriptions saying 1 - 2 bubbles in airlock per minute). My beer kit instructions say 1 week.

With 3 of my first 4 batches, the bubbles in the airlock have slowed to 1 bubble per 2 minutes or even longer after 3 days, so not wanting to wait for the primary to finish completely, I've racked to secondary after 4 days on these batches.

I don't want to rush the process and rack too soon, and I don't mind waiting a week, but my concern is that if I wait that long after the bubbling stops, too much of the yeast may settle and there won't be enough in the secondary.

So I thought I would ask here -- Any advice?

 

[birvine]

3 - 4 weeks in primary, then secondary if adding fruit or to the bottling bucket/keg. Then let it mature for 3-4 weeks and voila - great beer.

B

 

[Acoma]

The only way to know when fermentation is complete is with a hydrometer.

 

[itsme6582]

Don't do it unless you need to. You are inviting a new opportunity for contamination and it won't make your beer any better. Reasons to rack include: dry hopping, oak additions, fruit additions, long term conditioning, and the need for the large fermentor for a new beer. The last one could be solved by getting an additional fermentor.

The yeast doesn't disappear. I've had a beer in a single fermentor for as long as 2 months and it carbed up just fine in the bottles. I'm sure others have gone longer.

 

[castlefreak]

I generally wait 7 days, but you should really go by gravity readings. If your hydrometer says you're close to your target FG, measure it again in a day or two and if it reads the same, you're good to go.

 

[Rastaman]

I generally wait 7 days, but you should really go by gravity readings. If your hydrometer says you're close to your target FG, measure it again in a day or two and if it reads the same, you're good to go.

Ok, so if I understand correctly, you are saying that the beer should be at FG BEFORE racking to secondary?

I've been following this forum for several months now (awesome forum, BTW), and all the gurus seem to consider hydrometer readings as mandatory, but I have really been avoiding the hydrometer for a couple reasons:

1. I would like to minimize the chances for exposing the beer to contamination

2. I've bottled two batches so far, and at least the way I am doing it, 5 gallons has been about one bottle short of 48 beers both times. Measuring 3x would then make me short by about 3 - 4 bottles, right? Should I be starting with a little more than 5 gallons, maybe?

I was kind of hoping that by sticking with lower-gravity recipes and allowing 3 weeks total for primary and secondary, that using the hydrometer would be unnecessary.

I guess if I'm going to do this right, I will have to start using the hydrometer - any suggestions on how to do this and still have 48 bottles of beer when I'm done?

Thanks again

 

[chezhed]

Worry about quality, not quantity

 

[rycov]

Ok, so if I understand correctly, you are saying that the beer should be at FG BEFORE racking to secondary?

I've been following this forum for several months now (awesome forum, BTW), and all the gurus seem to consider hydrometer readings as mandatory,

yes. FG first, then rack. the reason for secondary is just for the beer to clear and condition. (secondary fermentation is actually a misnomer unless your adding more fermentables like fruits or somthing) a lot of people are now days forgoing secondary all together unless they are dry hopping or adding fruit. The thought being that it is good for the beer to sit on that yeast cake for a while and you don't risk contamination while transfering. I leave my beers in primary for about a month and dont use secondary. its one of those things that people argue about, but both way makes good beer, it hasn't made a noticeable difference in my beers. Its just easier to leave in primary so i do.

also yes, get a hydrometer. only way you can know how far along your fermentation is. a good way to not loose the beer you sample is to drink it!

 

[zachary80]

If you sanitize with Star San, it's easy enough to sanitize your thief.

What are you using to take hydrometer readings with? The tube that came with mine only takes a few ounces to get a reading. I figure I lose maybe a beer to the hydrometer total.

 

[rycov]

worry about quality, not quantity

+1

 

[McMalty]

Ok, so if I understand correctly, you are saying that the beer should be at FG BEFORE racking to secondary?

I've been following this forum for several months now (awesome forum, BTW), and all the gurus seem to consider hydrometer readings as mandatory, but I have really been avoiding the hydrometer for a couple reasons:

1. I would like to minimize the chances for exposing the beer to contamination

2. I've bottled two batches so far, and at least the way I am doing it, 5 gallons has been about one bottle short of 48 beers both times. Measuring 3x would then make me short by about 3 - 4 bottles, right? Should I be starting with a little more than 5 gallons, maybe?

I was kind of hoping that by sticking with lower-gravity recipes and allowing 3 weeks total for primary and secondary, that using the hydrometer would be unnecessary.

I guess if I'm going to do this right, I will have to start using the hydrometer - any suggestions on how to do this and still have 48 bottles of beer when I'm done?

Thanks again

sterilize your hydrometer, tie a string to the end of it and lower it into your carboy. of course the string should be long enough that some hangs out of the carboy. once the hydro settles, take the reading. now pull the hydro out of the carboy. If you're using a bucket, it's even easier, you don't even need the string, just a sterilized hydrometer. Now you've wasted zero beer. your welcome