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What would it take for me to get a sink down in my basement beer cave?

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Well scratch that thought. The manufactures instructions clearly state not use an air admittance valve.
If not getting permit or inpection...I'd go studor vent.
 
I'm a little late for this one, bit depending on how high your ceiling is, I would consider building a platform to raise the sink.
 
Well scratch that thought. The manufactures instructions clearly state not use an air admittance valve.
If not getting permit or inpection...I'd go studor vent.

No, I'm not pulling a permit for this, nor getting it inspected. But I do plan to do the work the "right way" as much as possible.

I thought Studor was just a brand name of an air admittance valve; are they not the same thing?
 
I'm a little late for this one, bit depending on how high your ceiling is, I would consider building a platform to raise the sink.


What's the reason for that? Just to raise the work height so I don't need to bend down? The height from the floor to the lip of the tub is 34", which I believe is the same as my kitchen countertops. What do you recommend?
 
No, I'm not pulling a permit for this, nor getting it inspected. But I do plan to do the work the "right way" as much as possible.

I thought Studor was just a brand name of an air admittance valve; are they not the same thing?

Yes, same thing. I'm also all for doing it the right way also, but without knowing exactly what you have there, I can't offer much. I have run into issues where air admittance valves just don't work. You'll know if doesn't work fairly quick, but if it does, it's a cheap alternative...at least that what it sounds like by what you have available.
 
What's the reason for that? Just to raise the work height so I don't need to bend down? The height from the floor to the lip of the tub is 34", which I believe is the same as my kitchen countertops. What do you recommend?

The lip of the tub is 34" but not the bottom of the tub.

If I were you, with benefit of hindsight, I'd be raising that sink. Actually, I'd put in a different sink entirely--one with a stainless sink in a cabinet I built out of...whatever, or raise up a cabinet. And I'd raise the sink up at least to the level of the washing machine next to it.

Below is my setup. The sink lip is 40", and it's a joy to work at it. No bending at all, no having to reach down inside to catch stuff.

I don't know if you can move the washer (and presumably dryer) left at all, but if I had that arrangement, I'd be making a cabinet with a space a the left to lay things down, and I'd raise it to a comfortable height. As a model, perhaps the kitchen sink setup may suffice.

After having worked with both laundry tubs and my setup, there's not a chance in whatever that I'd go back to a tub. My setup includes a sprayer just to the right of the sink faucet which you cannot see. Nothing better than spraying out the kettle, or kegs, or whatever.

I know money is dear, but if you checked craigslist you'd probably find a lot of stainless sink and even cabinet setups cheap. Here's a sink and faucet w/ sprayer combo for...$15: https://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/hsh/d/stainless-steel-kitchen-sink/6270763418.html

If you can't or don't want to do this, I'd at least raise the height of the tub so you could do something similar to what I did, create a space to the left so you could lay stuff on a rubber mat on the washer.

These are just ideas, may or may not work for you, but ask yourself what you're going to wish you'd done 6 months later.

sink1.jpg
 
I would not use a small sump pump in a bucket system. You might easily run water into the bucket faster than it could be expelled. I would expect a cheap one could easily clog up with grain husks, hop debris etc.

I would suggest making the connection in a way that it can just be removed if you were to sell the house. If not permitted and inspected, or to code, they may make you remove it anyway.
 
What's the reason for that? Just to raise the work height so I don't need to bend down? The height from the floor to the lip of the tub is 34", which I believe is the same as my kitchen countertops. What do you recommend?

Raise the sink so you don't need a pump. Obviously you 'd want a big enough platform to stand on, but it would be easier than doing something with a pump.
 
Alright I got my utility sink and Libery pump plumbed up. Pump works fine but the Studor vent is not venting. The back pressure seems to be pushing the diaphragm so the sink just fills with water. If I unscrew the Studor vent and just leave the stand pipe, the sink drains as it should . Any ideas? All the instructions say is that the vent must be at least 4" above the P-trap, which it is...View attachment IMG_1133.jpg
 
I would have run the pipe for the provent up to higher than 6" above the flood rim of the sink. I don't think that will help though. Maybe the device is failing?
 
Alright I got my utility sink and Libery pump plumbed up. Pump works fine but the Studor vent is not venting. The back pressure seems to be pushing the diaphragm so the sink just fills with water. If I unscrew the Studor vent and just leave the stand pipe, the sink drains as it should . Any ideas? All the instructions say is that the vent must be at least 4" above the P-trap, which it is...View attachment 419001


I believe your ejector tank is air locked and wont I allow any flow into it without a means to expel the same volume of air that wants to flow in. Take a look at the details below showing a vent tied to the horizontal drain line which would be a vented line, and allow air to escape the ejector sump.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1509570606.775056.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1509570624.909738.jpg

The mechanical vent as plumbed would work if the sink were draining into a vented line, but not into a sealed tank. Is this perhaps where the "directions" are misleading?
 
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