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What Sanitisers and Cleaners are used.

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OK, I have something of an emergency question (well, emergency might be an overstatement):

I need to clean my beer lines tonight, but am all out of my usual cleaners. We are expecting a serious snow storm today (8-12" today, then 1-3" tonight) so I'm not going anywhere. I have: OxiClean White Revive (label says for laundry use only), Red Devil TSP/90, Old Dutch Cleanser with Bleach (like Comet). Can I use any of these? Or should I just run some hot water through the lines, maybe with a small amount of bleach to kill any yeast cells that might be in the line (followed by a rinse, of course).

Thanks, and sorry if this is a duplicate question.
 
Getting ready for the snow myself here in MA.
The trouble with laundry detergents will be/might be the perfumes.
I've only ever used the TSP/90 with "free" types of oxy (OxyClean Free, Sun Oxygen Free from Dollar Store, etc). TSP/90 alone will do cleaning but rinse rinse rinse rinse rinse. The (Google here for concentration) bleach solution (I StarSan) would sanitize but don't know the cleaning potential, what little I recall from posts read, is that bleach will clean but it's usually soaked overnight or several hours.
 
Not all cleaning agents can be safely used on food-contact surfaces. Examples of those that should not be used include: glass cleaners, some metal cleaners, tub and tile cleaners. The label should indicate if the product can be used on a food-contact surface.

Secondly, the ideal cleaning agent must be selected to make cleaning easy. Cleaning agents are divided into four categories:

Detergents -- All detergents contain surfactants that reduce surface tensions between the soil and the surface, so the detergent can penetrate quickly and soften the soil. Examples include Dawn and Joy dishwashing detergent and automatic dishwasher detergents.
Solvent cleaners -- Often called degreasers, solvent cleaners are alkaline detergents that contain a grease-dissolving agent. These cleaners work well in areas where grease has been burned on. Examples include Fantastik.

Acid cleaners -- Use on mineral deposits and other soils alkaline cleaners cannot remove, these cleaners are often used to remove scale in warewashing machines and steam tables. Examples include CLR.

Abrasive cleaners -- Use these cleaners to remove heavy accumulations of soil often found in small areas. The abrasive action is provided by small mineral or metal particles, fine steel wool, copper, or nylon particles. Some abrasive cleaners also disinfect. Examples include Ajax and Comet.

National Microscope Exchange
Thank You
 
Getting ready for the snow myself here in MA.
The trouble with laundry detergents will be/might be the perfumes.
I've only ever used the TSP/90 with "free" types of oxy (OxyClean Free, Sun Oxygen Free from Dollar Store, etc). TSP/90 alone will do cleaning but rinse rinse rinse rinse rinse. The (Google here for concentration) bleach solution (I StarSan) would sanitize but don't know the cleaning potential, what little I recall from posts read, is that bleach will clean but it's usually soaked overnight or several hours.

Bleach contact with Stainless should be minimal. It will pit the surface. Bleach works immediately but you need to rinse, rinse, and rinse. StarSan is much better!:ban:

The only abrasive you should use is Bar Keepers Friend. It has the added benefit that it will passify Stainless Steel so it is a good cleaner to use on SS once in a while. If you see any rust (yes SS can rust), get the Bar Keepers Friend Out.
 
I didn't read through the 20 pages of comments but like lost my process. I use bleach to clean bedadine to sanitize (I am a medic and get this for free). I let everything that will touch my cooled wort soak in bleach, then I rinse and hit with betadine.

I have never had an infection I haven't induced. I am on my 132 batch of beer (5 gallons at a time), so this works no matter what.

Only caveat is I do a huge rinse.
 
I used to use Miltons solution as well as a cheaper own-brand version from the pharmacy, thin-bleach stuff for sanitizing baby's bottles. I found it required the use off too much water and required too long a time (15 mins) to work. Furthermore, it is difficult to rinse off, leaves that chlorine smell behind that taints the finished product. I used cold water to rinse because I didn't want to introduce microbes by using hot.

Now, I use sodium metabisulfite mixed with citric acid to sanitize equipment and containers. Sometimes I sanitize metal objects in the oven and on occasion I boil tea-towels along with thick rubber bands to sanitize them before using them to cover the primary fermentor.
 
I am pretty new to the scene of home brewing. What about using a spray mist of pure grain alcohol such as Everclear on already-clean surfaces, siphoning it through tubes, and soaking smaller parts? Would that not be a completely non-adulterating and quite effective sanitizer that could be re-used? (well, except for the spray-mist)
 
I was wondering how long would a 5G batch of starsan be "good" for? I follow the directions on the bottle, that I think it was 1oz to 5 G of water, in a 5G pail. but I was wondering how long that would stay effective, in a sealed pail?

I was just curious what everyone elses practices are?

thanks,
 
I was wondering how long would a 5G batch of starsan be "good" for? I follow the directions on the bottle, that I think it was 1oz to 5 G of water, in a 5G pail. but I was wondering how long that would stay effective, in a sealed pail?

I was just curious what everyone elses practices are?

thanks,

I test mine occasionally; as long as pH is <=3 it's still "good". I really only change it if it gets cloudy, or I screw up and get bits of grain/hops in it, but I probably don't technically have to do that. Keep in mind that with harder water, cloudiness is not a good indicator. But pH is really supposed to be the real determinant of effectiveness with StarSan. See, for instance, THIS post.
 
I keep mine 2 to 3 weeks

I test mine occasionally; as long as pH is <=3 it's still "good". I really only change it if it gets cloudy, or I screw up and get bits of grain/hops in it, but I probably don't technically have to do that. Keep in mind that with harder water, cloudiness is not a good indicator. But pH is really supposed to be the real determinant of effectiveness with StarSan. See, for instance, THIS post.

awesome info guys, thanks soo very much.

my first two batches a guy from my homebrew group told me that i had some "wild fermentation" going on...so i needed to check my process, and find where the issue is, to not have the "vanilla flavors" in all of my brews.

I've made Ed Worts Haus Pale Ale now, and I'm hoping this one will be good.

thanks again,
 
For PBW the directions on the side say "CIP" 100-160 35m, but do I need that for my homebrew 2.5 gal pot? I don't need to clean this thing in place; it's just a pot.

There's some stuff stuck on the bottom where the burners have burnt some dextrose that I can't scrub out -- should I heat up some solution or just let it set overnight? Can I hurt the pot if I heat it up/let it set? It's stainless.
 
Thanks for the list.

Not familiar with imperial measure. what does 1c/5gal mean?
1cup? Merci!


Yes Maximum 1 cup for 5 gallons. Pay attention to the directions/ recommendations regarding water temperature as well. It really helps for me when I have stubborn and stuck trub.
 
I've been warmed against using chlorine (bleach) as it can affect my stainless steel and can also leave a bad taste if not thouroughly rinsed. I live in Peru, so no access to PBW, sta san, isodophor, etc. Not even access to Oxyclean.
How can I make my own cleaners/sanitizers?
 
Is it plausible to use rum with 42.8% alcohol for sanitising? As I have already used vodka few times and it does the job, but wanted to know about rum ?
 
Hi there first time on here so forgive any stupid questions. I'm ready to bottle tomorrow and basically I don't want to make the same mistake as last time. I thought I rinsed out the bottles properly but I'm doubting my self due to a chemically taste to the coppers lager. Im now on a northern brown ale. I have switched to vwp steriliser I know it's 2-3 teaspoon per gallon of water but I have 40 bottles so I don't think I need that much water. how much water and vwp should I use for 40 bottles.
 
Hi there first time on here so forgive any stupid questions. I'm ready to bottle tomorrow and basically I don't want to make the same mistake as last time. I thought I rinsed out the bottles properly but I'm doubting my self due to a chemically taste to the coppers lager. Im now on a northern brown ale. I have switched to vwp steriliser I know it's 2-3 teaspoon per gallon of water but I have 40 bottles so I don't think I need that much water. how much water and vwp should I use for 40 bottles.


If'n it was me, i would buy a brute trash can from ho depot.

using 1 cup of bleach per 5 gallons of water, i would fill the trash can about 1/2 way.

then i would put my bottles in the trash can . put the lid on and let then get all happy and clean.

i would also, take a 2x6 board about 2' long, and put a nail in it

about 4'' apart. put that in the trash also.

put the 2x6 on the table, put the bottles upside down on the nails

let dry

others may have different ideas d (1).gif
 
My first post here. Great forum!

Planning to ask my sis to get Star San from the US when coming to India but looks like they cannot carry it? Should not be shipped by air?
 
Should be fine if she puts it in a checked bag. You're not supposed to ship it, but then you're not supposed to ship beer either and plenty of people do.
 
Should be fine if she puts it in a checked bag. You're not supposed to ship it, but then you're not supposed to ship beer either and plenty of people do.

Hey, thanks for the reply. And yes, many people have put it in their checked luggage. But I've decided to not to ask her to get it - too corrosive and don't want to be adding to anyone's troubles.
 
Never use chlorine bleach on stainless steel, it will stain it...I did it once on accident, can't get the stains out with Barkeepers Friend.
 
That will leave such a bleachy residue on bottles, you will end up with carbonated & chlorinated alcohol.

I think it's something like 1 oz. per 5 gal. will make it safe to drink, so would probably want that concentration. Just let them sit over nite, and that should kill most microbes. At least a few hours.
 
I use Star San, and just keep transferring from one plastic pail to the next. As long as you see foam when you transfer it, it should. I'll do 4 or 5 batches per mix, and I get no contamination.

Plus, as soon as you drain a container, you can fill it with beer. No drying needed.
 
Can you use the pink food grade sanitizer from Sma's club? Its for food grade surfaces, no rinse, and for dishes
1 gallon makes 32 gallons of sanitizer
 
Sams Club has Proforce sanitizer for food surfaces will this work for sanitizing wine making equipment?

I've never heard of a home brewer using this product.

Starsan is the recommended no-rinse sanitizer, specially formulated for the brewing industry. It's pretty much odor and taste free. Assisted by a surfactant the phosphoric acid (low pH) kills the micro organisms. Apparently one can drink a quart of the working solution without any harmful effects. Which of the other available sanitizers could you safely drink a quart of? Spraying down a prep table is not the same as putting a gallon into a brew bucket, sponging or swishing it around, dumping it back into the holding vessel and then filling it with wort.
 
Hi , everyone

I am new user but not new brewer. Still not that experienced one

I made dozen of batch and always used bleach+vinegar mix for utensil and bottle cleaning.
Now I have a new fermenter which look like attached ..

I read all posts on this topic about bleach but couldnt find any answer for this



1) I wanna ask if bleach and vinegar mix would be unhealthy for this fermenter for cleaning and sanitizing ?
2) And why do I need special cleaner if i would use sanitizer ? It is killing all the bacteries anyway ?


Thanks

musluklu-mayalanma-kovasi1-opt90.jpg
 
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