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What is the Real Benefit of a Plate Chiller?

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I think if I get a plate chiller (likely now) that I will follow that method and still whirlpool, I just put in a glycol chiller with a 10 gallon reservoir. I think I can get a 10 gallon batch down in less than 10 minutes.
 
+1^ Pretty much all covered here.

I use a 30-plate plate chiller and pump to recirculate back into the kettle, until around 90-110F, then single pass directly to the fermentor, with ice water if needed. A hop basket, spider, hop bags, or a very large size mesh filter on the bottom (a la hop taco) or a combination of those are needed to keep hop debris out of the chiller. The fine dust that makes it out of the spider and hop bags doesn't clog the chiller. Neither does cold break.

Oven sterilization:
After backwashing with hot water, back and forth until clean, the plate chiller gets Starsaned, drained, shaken as dry as possible, and put away. Every few brews or when I deem needed, I stick it in the oven anywhere between 250-450 for a few hours, usually with the bread or pizza.

If you want to whirlpool with the pump, bypass the chiller, it has too much resistance. But I do run boiling wort through it first for 5 minutes to sanitize, just in case.
 
I think if I get a plate chiller (likely now) that I will follow that method and still whirlpool, I just put in a glycol chiller with a 10 gallon reservoir. I think I can get a 10 gallon batch down in less than 10 minutes.

What is the glycol going to cool? I don't bother hitting pitch temps with my plate chiller inline to the FV because the glycol drops the wort to pitching in less than 20 minutes. I'm dealing with 15-20 gallons of wort in the FV.
 
I think if I get a plate chiller (likely now) that I will follow that method and still whirlpool, I just put in a glycol chiller with a 10 gallon reservoir. I think I can get a 10 gallon batch down in less than 10 minutes.


I've been cooling the entire kettle by recircing back form the therminator. That along with a false bottom and bazooka screen keep my trub in the kettle 100%.

I just built a tee/thermo combo though so I'll start doing like the guys above now that I Know the temp exiting the chiller.
 
This is all really good information to consider. I currently use a IC, but I still think that with the addition of my new brewstand, I'll probably upgrade to a plate chiller. I realize that they may take more to keep clean and not have to worry about plugging up, but that is something that I'm pretty anal about to begin with and I don't think it will become an issue. Good topic! :mug:
 
I have only used my CFC. It works. It's fast enough.

But I want to trade it for a more efficient, easier to clean Immersion Chiller.

I believe a person can build a 2-pipe IC for very cheap that can perform better than the average CFC and requires very little in cleaning and maintenance. I know Jaded Brewing makes a few models using multiple tubes. This kind of design is, in effect, like having 2-3 chillers running at the same time. The length is shorter, so the water doesn't warm up as much halfway through. It has more cold surface area than a longer single tube chiller.

And clean up is simply rinsing off with hot water (collect a bit that first comes out of the chiller) and let it dry. With a CFC you can't see how nasty it is in there, and it's a PITA to clean inside too. I once used my diptube brush inside my CFC and was amazed at the amount of blackish gunk that came out when I was sure I was rinsing well enough after each brew. Since my brush was not long enough to reach the middle from both ends, I am sure there is still some gunk in there.

Now, with a pump, I can sanitize it during the last few minutes of the boil, just as I would with an IC, but I'd still like to be able to SEE how clean it is, AND get improved performance from a multi-tube IC.

Plate Chillers are great for pro brewers where using an IC would be impractical with their equipment and the batch size. CFCs are efficient too, but in my experience still leave a bit to be desired.

Homercidal - I just saw this counterflow chiller looking at different chilling methods and it made me think of you. It seems to solve every problem you don't like with your CFC and still offer super fast chilling.

http://jadedbrewing.com/collections/counterflow-chillers/products/the-jaded-cfc
 
What is the glycol going to cool? I don't bother hitting pitch temps with my plate chiller inline to the FV because the glycol drops the wort to pitching in less than 20 minutes. I'm dealing with 15-20 gallons of wort in the FV.

I was going to run the glycol through the water side of the plate chiller, or at least run a coil throught the glycol tank to chill the water to as cold as I can get it. In the summer especially my groundwater can be over 70.

I do not have the GC plumbed to my fermenters yet, that is an upcoming project.
 
Not sure if this has been said or not but be careful with plate chillers. If you are unable to take them apart eventually you will get off flavors no matter how much acid, bases and water you back flush through them
 
Not sure if this has been said or not but be careful with plate chillers. If you are unable to take them apart eventually you will get off flavors no matter how much acid, bases and water you back flush through them


Have passed probably 50 brews through my plate chiller with a mere counterwash at the end of the brewday with no off flavors... A few brews have even scored in the 40s in BJCP comps. Mine doesn't come apart. Your assessment is inaccurate.
 
Have passed probably 50 brews through my plate chiller with a mere counterwash at the end of the brewday with no off flavors... A few brews have even scored in the 40s in BJCP comps. Mine doesn't come apart. Your assessment is inaccurate.

A vote for a solid Immersion Cooler. Use 50', 1/2 inch copper (I made one myself). Similar to the one that is in photos above - longer pipe allows to make both inner and outer coils.

I have fairly warm tap water, yet I can cool from boil to 90F in 10min flat.
No cleaning is required. No clogging ever. Super-easy setup. Wort is in contact with outside only, which is easy to inspect.
 

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