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What I did for beer today

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Up early to brew what I'm calling my RAT (Race Against Time) porter, a' la Irish Death (kinda) clone. Racing against time because I have to be at my mother's by 9:30 to take her to look at a new place for my dad. So far had to run for propane, overheated BOTH the strike & sparge to the point I had to drain some and add cold water (thanks for the distractions HBT!), and made a small mess on the floor with spilled wort. Gonna be a good day.
 
Up early to brew what I'm calling my RAT (Race Against Time) porter, a' la Irish Death (kinda) clone. Racing against time because I have to be at my mother's by 9:30 to take her to look at a new place for my dad. So far had to run for propane, overheated BOTH the strike & sparge to the point I had to drain some and add cold water (thanks for the distractions HBT!), and made a small mess on the floor with spilled wort. Gonna be a good day.
Relax. Hurrying just breeds more problems.
 
Your slant babies might like a clean playground when you wake them up. 4oz jars fit on top of quarts inside my pressure canner.

Next wort canning session I plan to give making invert sugar in the canner a try. Should be able to get a good hour or two of 240 time.
 
Smallest jars I have are pints, and yes they will stack on the quarts. I have the Presto 23 qt canner.
1st batch in the canner is 2 quarts and 5 pints. Next batch will be 3 quarts and 4 pints.
I've been keeping an eye on the blank slants at room temp, 2 out of 24 are infected. The gaskets on the vials I bought are not autoclavable, so I soaked the gaskets in StarSan while the vials were cooking, then replaced the gaskets when the vials cooled.
 
Rainy day here in NJ. Brewed a milkshake IPA. Waiting for the wort to cool down before pitching the yeast. I've been experimenting with hops lately. Hopefully it tastes as good, if not better, than it already smells.

The cool down time gives me a chance to plan out and order supplies for my next brew.
 
Smallest jars I have are pints, and yes they will stack on the quarts. I have the Presto 23 qt canner.
1st batch in the canner is 2 quarts and 5 pints. Next batch will be 3 quarts and 4 pints.
I've been keeping an eye on the blank slants at room temp, 2 out of 24 are infected. The gaskets on the vials I bought are not autoclavable, so I soaked the gaskets in StarSan while the vials were cooking, then replaced the gaskets when the vials cooled.

I have a 23 qt presto pressure cooker, but I thought I could only fit 4oz jars on top of quarts. Will have to double check next time as that would speed up the process if I can fit pints on top too. I have 4,8,16,32 oz jars so I can stepping up using sterile wort.

I was wondering about the lining of your vials. Looking for new vials, my first vials had a rubber one and the lining came off of few after a few uses. Found out I could not easily find replacement caps. The last set I bought had a different kind of cap from the phenolic type I was using. I was a bit nervous at first but I like the idea of non phenolic cap now so that I can smell if a clean yeast possible got contaminated.

My first batch of slants I allowed the slants to dry out before sealing them up, I had a few bad ones and I think some contaminated slants. Now I tighten the top as I pull them out of the canner jar and tape up as soon as the agar is set. I store upside down to aid draining the condensation.

It is bit of work but it is cool to bring a sleeping vial back to life.

I know making starter is not difficult but man do I like grabbing a jar of wort and be done.
 
Helped my brew buddy bottle beers for the Bluebonnet Brew Off competition this march. Last beer was an oak aged old ale named "Old Stiff Woody".
IMG_20200125_130526_0.jpg
 
Kegged a batch of kolsch a couple days ago. Kegged my mini batches a couple days ago too warm samples tasted good. Still have Lemooch yet to package other than that my fermenters are empty.

Brought a slant of wlp006 back to life two days ago, made new slants today and stepped up the base starter.

Signed up for NHC so have to do a couple beers in the next day or so to meet the entry window. Going over recipes today to figure what to brew for NHC.
 
I have a 23 qt presto pressure cooker, but I thought I could only fit 4oz jars on top of quarts. Will have to double check next time as that would speed up the process if I can fit pints on top too. I have 4,8,16,32 oz jars so I can stepping up using sterile wort.

I was wondering about the lining of your vials. Looking for new vials, my first vials had a rubber one and the lining came off of few after a few uses. Found out I could not easily find replacement caps. The last set I bought had a different kind of cap from the phenolic type I was using. I was a bit nervous at first but I like the idea of non phenolic cap now so that I can smell if a clean yeast possible got contaminated.

My first batch of slants I allowed the slants to dry out before sealing them up, I had a few bad ones and I think some contaminated slants. Now I tighten the top as I pull them out of the canner jar and tape up as soon as the agar is set. I store upside down to aid draining the condensation.

It is bit of work but it is cool to bring a sleeping vial back to life.

I know making starter is not difficult but man do I like grabbing a jar of wort and be done.
Last bunch of jars I bought are regular mouth pints, smooth sided, and they WILL NOT stack on the quarts. Last time I did the stacking trick, I believe it was wide mouth pints on top of wide mouth pints. So, I blew off the pints for now, and have 7 quarts cooking right now. The pints are already loaded, but will have to wait for the heat/cool cycle to finish.
 
I have a 23 qt presto pressure cooker, but I thought I could only fit 4oz jars on top of quarts. Will have to double check next time as that would speed up the process if I can fit pints on top too. I have 4,8,16,32 oz jars so I can stepping up using sterile wort.

I was wondering about the lining of your vials. Looking for new vials, my first vials had a rubber one and the lining came off of few after a few uses. Found out I could not easily find replacement caps. The last set I bought had a different kind of cap from the phenolic type I was using. I was a bit nervous at first but I like the idea of non phenolic cap now so that I can smell if a clean yeast possible got contaminated.

My first batch of slants I allowed the slants to dry out before sealing them up, I had a few bad ones and I think some contaminated slants. Now I tighten the top as I pull them out of the canner jar and tape up as soon as the agar is set. I store upside down to aid draining the condensation.

It is bit of work but it is cool to bring a sleeping vial back to life.

I know making starter is not difficult but man do I like grabbing a jar of wort and be done.

So, what vials are you using now? (source?). The vials I have have aluminum caps which I like, but the gasket is some kind of white plastic. Tested in boiling water, and they didn't make the cut.
 
So, what vials are you using now? (source?). The vials I have have aluminum caps which I like, but the gasket is some kind of white plastic. Tested in boiling water, and they didn't make the cut.

These are the first kind, only a few have lost their linings, but the shipping is a bit steep. Cant get replacement caps.
https://yoursciencehub.com/clear-glass-vials-w-autoclavable-cap-24ml-12-pk-115--27910
These are the kind I got last. I think I found replacement caps and liners but am not sure.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C13ODFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
These are the first kind, only a few have lost their linings, but the shipping is a bit steep. Cant get replacement caps.
https://yoursciencehub.com/clear-glass-vials-w-autoclavable-cap-24ml-12-pk-115--27910
These are the kind I got last. I think I found replacement caps and liners but am not sure.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C13ODFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I already located those in the 1st link, but not the ones in the 2nd. I have some 1/16" thick red rubber sheet, thinking I should punch some gaskets out of that, and see if they will hold up.
 
Making my DIPA and realizing that having moved my brewery to the garage, using my own mill for the grain, and understanding mashing temps better after a lot of beer-making practice, that I have to boil off 1 gallon of extra liquid (that I used to need). I hit my efficiency % for the beer, but I just mashed and sparged too much liquid.

Sometimes you win, sometimes you learn; no complaints.

EDIT: dropped my first carboy while doing this beer. Dang. You would think it was a 6G volume light bulb for how far it sent shards.
 
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Making my DIPA and realizing that having moved my brewery to the garage, using my own mill for the grain, and understanding mashing temps better after a lot of beer-making practice, that I have to boil off 1 gallon of extra liquid (that I used to need). I hit my efficiency % for the beer, but I just mashed and sparged too much liquid.

Sometimes you win, sometimes you learn; no complaints.
AND, you can drink your mistakes!
I also tend to use too much water when sparging.
 
Just tapped the Georgetown Bodhizafa clone I brewed last weekend...and sitting here just amazeballs at how it turned out. On a whim I just entered it in the Greater Everett Brewer's League IPA Challenge, I think it's that good. Needs a little bit more carbonation but entries aren't due until next Friday so I have time. Wow.
 
Will spund my Anchor Steam today, which followed as closely as possible what Fritz Maytag and the current Brewmaster Scott Underman described.
90% 2 row
10% C40
US N Brewer only
First batch 5 gallon: Ferment 60F ambient for first 2 weeks using open fermentation
Krausening batch 2 gallons: for maturation - add on top of first batch
2nd ferment/maturation at 58F ambient for 2 weeks
Keg and let mature in keg 2 weeks

So, I did the open ferment at 60F for two weeks, moved to the grarage and secondary ferment in a range that was less was probably 40 -55F
it's around 1020 now with a calculated FG of 1014, so may be fully carbonate. If it's flat, I can either add some sugar or just top off with CO2.

I think spunding tastes better but need to do a side by side trial to self test.

Looking forward to this experiment getting to completion in about 2 weeks.

I tend to brew certain styles with the seasons as I don't really have precise temperature control. So, winter is for lagers and make a sake test, summer for Kviek, in-between for the UK styles...

Anyone know the origin of the current California common or cable car yeast? I was quite surprised to hear Fritz describe in the early days going around to different breweries in the area like lucky lager, and Hamms to get a pitch. he got tired of that and then used red yeast bread yeast in liquid form before it was dried out. Not sure what they use now, so any thoughts?
 
Came home between jobs to check the kinda WF lager I brewed yesterday, that is fermenting in the garage (not in the ferment fridge). Used 34/70 for this one, and wrapped it in thermowrap and a blanket to keep it happy. Huge beautiful krausen going on, blowoff is bubbling nicely, and if this works I've got an option since my current ferment fridge can only hold one fermenter (currently hosting my Irish Death clone). And sipping on a small glass of the Bodhizafa clone that will get bottled off for a competition on Wednesday night. Great week for my homebrew.
 
Came home between jobs to check the kinda WF lager I brewed yesterday, that is fermenting in the garage (not in the ferment fridge). Used 34/70 for this one, and wrapped it in thermowrap and a blanket to keep it happy. Huge beautiful krausen going on, blowoff is bubbling nicely, and if this works I've got an option since my current ferment fridge can only hold one fermenter (currently hosting my Irish Death clone). And sipping on a small glass of the Bodhizafa clone that will get bottled off for a competition on Wednesday night. Great week for my homebrew.
Ok, what is WF lager?
 
tested the Mild that I spunded in the 2.5 gallon keg. Only partially carbonated and tastes sweet, so prolly has not yet fully fermented the priming sugar. Could be the garage is too cold, so I brought it inside to warm up to about 70F.

I kegged my 5 gallon Anchor Steam clone. The gas intake won't connect and has been sticky for a while.

Question: if I let all the air out of the intake valve, unscrew the intake assembly and replace, it should not make a big ol' mess, correct? Or am I screwed?
 
tested the Mild that I spunded in the 2.5 gallon keg. Only partially carbonated and tastes sweet, so prolly has not yet fully fermented the priming sugar. Could be the garage is too cold, so I brought it inside to warm up to about 70F.

I kegged my 5 gallon Anchor Steam clone. The gas intake won't connect and has been sticky for a while.

Question: if I let all the air out of the intake valve, unscrew the intake assembly and replace, it should not make a big ol' mess, correct? Or am I screwed?
First question, did you prime or force carbonate? Now, if you let the the gas off very slowly via the pressure relief valve there shouldn't be much foaming. Then you should be able to replace the gas valve and pressurize the keg. Hope this helps
 
First question, did you prime or force carbonate? Now, if you let the the gas off very slowly via the pressure relief valve there shouldn't be much foaming. Then you should be able to replace the gas valve and pressurize the keg. Hope this helps
I primed with a handful of sugar cubes as the FG was probably 4 points above target. If that results in over carbonation, the spunding valve should take care of it.

Appreciate you validating slowly let the gas out via the pressure release valve, and then replace the valve and it should not make a horrible mess.
 
Should of linked this the first time, there is a lot of information in this thread.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/warm-fermented-lager-thread.592169/

I usually ferment cold for lagers, but have done it a few times. The last lager I did was a bit of an experiment, American 2row instead of pilsner and hopped with liberty. I fermented half with wlp029 and the other half with S-189 fermented at 67F.

I've done them both ways, and really can't tell the difference; except the cold-fermented ones tend to clear out better, dunno why. Last few have been done with all two-row, and I like the flavor I get from it; this one was 90/10 pilsner and two row, with Saaz for bittering and flavor, with some Crystal added at the end for a bit of fruitiness which I like in my lagers. A few batches back I had a WF one go grain to glass in 8 days; tasted great on initial tap, and got moderately better with some age on it. Who says lagers need three weeks at the minimum.....
 
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