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Belgian Dark Strong Ale Westvleteren 12 Clone - Multiple Award Winner

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Here's a sampling of my 1st attempt, came out around 10.5%. Real W12 on left and mine on the right only 1week kegged. The 2nd batch, now fermenting, will be darker as I used 1lb of 180 and 1lb of 240 syrup. To early to tell for sure but yeast quality is definitely similar. I used WY3787 Trappist.
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Belgian dark strong ( BDS ) and dopplebock are my favorite beers ( see my avatar picture ) . I brew the BDS using homemade dark candi syrup.
I want to brew the original recipe on page 1 of this thread. The recipe asks for 2.5 lbs of D-180 commercial candi syrup and some Clear wort boil-down.
Boiling down some runoff = reduce a solution of maltose + nitrogen to produce Maillard reactions and that's how candi syrup is made.
So the recipe asks for 2 additions of candi syrup, the commercial D-180 and the reduced wort . Is it correct ?

Jacques
 
Belgian dark strong ( BDS ) and dopplebock are my favorite beers ( see my avatar picture ) . I brew the BDS using homemade dark candi syrup.
I want to brew the original recipe on page 1 of this thread. The recipe asks for 2.5 lbs of D-180 commercial candi syrup and some Clear wort boil-down.
Boiling down some runoff = reduce a solution of maltose + nitrogen to produce Maillard reactions and that's how candi syrup is made.
So the recipe asks for 2 additions of candi syrup, the commercial D-180 and the reduced wort . Is it correct ?

Jacques

Yes, but it's debatable whether boiling down some of the first runnings into maltose syrup is worth the trouble, although there is no reason not to try it at least once to see for yourself. BTW, CSI, the original poster with the recipe, later reduced the 2.5 pounds of D-180 to 2 pounds, and CSI is in the business of selling syrup.

For me, 2 lbs. of D-180 in a 5 or 5.5 gallons batch is plenty, but it's a matter of taste.
 
Yes, but it's debatable whether boiling down some of the first runnings into maltose syrup is worth the trouble, although there is no reason not to try it at least once to see for yourself. BTW, CSI, the original poster with the recipe, later reduced the 2.5 pounds of D-180 to 2 pounds, and CSI is in the business of selling syrup.

For me, 2 lbs. of D-180 in a 5 or 5.5 gallons batch is plenty, but it's a matter of taste.

I agree, 2 lbs of candi syrup is a lot. I use 1 lb of homemade candi syrup + 1 lb of pure cane sugar ( for a dry finish ).
As you say, there is no reason not to try.
I might make the maltose candi syrup in advance by reducing some water + light malt extract.

Jacques
 
First off I want to say thanks to CSI for the super detailed recipe's and guidance on brewing this beer, and to everyone else for all the great info in this thread. I brewed this up with a buddy of mine a few weeks ago and can't be happier with how it's turned out, and with no aging at this point, definitely a bit green, but still pretty tasty.

This was our first ever big beer, but we have about 15 batches under our belt and were able to hit all the numbers. We followed the pilsner/pale ale recipe, couldn't find Brewers Gold so swapped in Northern Brewer hops, pitched a 3 liter starter that we decanted before pitching. We didn't aerate the starter since it was on a stir plate, but did aerate the wort for about 10 minutes with a regular aquarium pump and aeration stone.

Took a note from this thread and used a 1 inch blowoff tube on the Fermzilla, which was needed, because wow, this yeast takes off! Fermentation temp peaked at 75, and a couple of weeks later we got 1.013 as our FG. Thankfully didn't have any problems with the fermentation stalling, not sure if we got lucky or did something right. We have it conditioning in a keg right now, we didn't hook it up to the keezer so hopefully we can keep our hands off it for a few months.
 
Naw, I honestly don't know where I could get it, and I'm not worried about it being a perfect clone, I just want a good strong belgian that I can brew myself and try and keep on hand :)
If you get the point where your interested. Pricey but 3 bottles and a glass was enough for me.

https://belgianmart.com/
 
Just picked up everything I need to brew this. Planning for next weekend. Going to start fermentation at 70 for 2 days, then bump up 2 degrees every dayish till 84
That's the ticket. My next attempt I'll probably just ferment at 80. I'll be curious if you get those fruity esters mine are missing.
 
Exciting! What are you using for temp control?
I have a small chest freezer with an Inkbird controller. Controller has a cool and heat output. The 'heat' goes to a small heating pad inside. Just fermented a Kveik yeast IPA at 85F and turned off the chest freezer itself so it wouldn't quickly cool.
 
I use a heat wrap on the fermenter, a tc coil for cooling, and a 2 stage inkbird to control them.

Nice, I've looked at the coils a few times but it seemed like another thing to clean, and I didn't want to have to build/buy a chiller for it. Seems like a really space effecient way to cool though.

I have a small chest freezer with an Inkbird controller. Controller has a cool and heat output. The 'heat' goes to a small heating pad inside. Just fermented a Kveik yeast IPA at 85F and turned off the chest freezer itself so it wouldn't quickly cool.

Do you have any trouble getting 5 gallons in and out of it? I thought about going that route but recently got a Fermzilla and wasn't sure about getting it in and out of a chest freezer.

For mine we put it in a cool spot in the house (about 66° ambient), and used the natural rise and a heated seed map to ramp up the temp. Since the Fermzilla tank is only rated for 122° max I was a little concerned about using a normal heat wrap, because none of them specify the temp range and I couldn't find one that listed it in the specs.

Have brewed many times. Here's my oops from the most recent iteration. Came home from work to find an unexpected experiment in open fermentation.View attachment 671977

Wow, yeah, that yeast is a beast.
 
Nice, I've looked at the coils a few times but it seemed like another thing to clean, and I didn't want to have to build/buy a chiller for it. Seems like a really space effecient way to cool though.



Do you have any trouble getting 5 gallons in and out of it? I thought about going that route but recently got a Fermzilla and wasn't sure about getting it in and out of a chest freezer.

For mine we put it in a cool spot in the house (about 66° ambient), and used the natural rise and a heated seed map to ramp up the temp. Since the Fermzilla tank is only rated for 122° max I was a little concerned about using a normal heat wrap, because none of them specify the temp range and I couldn't find one that listed it in the specs.



Wow, yeah, that yeast is a beast.

I live in southern Arizona, so temp control is a problem for me. During the winter months, I can ferment at room temp, approx 68°. For the summer, I use a 7.5 cu ft chest freezer, which can fit two 6.5 gallon big mouth bubblers. My 9.25 gallon fermentasaurus will not fit in there. The freezer is temp controlled. The only problem in our 9 month long summers is keeping the fermentation cool enough, heating is not a problem.
 
I've just bottled this after 7 weeks in the primary. I followed the original recipe from the first post and FG came out at 1010. I fermented it around 70 and then after 4 weeks brought the temp up to 75.

Having sampled the beer at bottling I'd be inclined to ferment at a higher temp if I did this again. I've had a Westie 12 and distinctly remember the deep plum flavours and the fact that the flavour lingered. Admittedly the sample I'm drinking straight out of the primary is going to change a fair bit but for me it already it lacks the deep plum I'd been hoping for.
 
Jumping back into brewing with both feet using the second recipe of the Westy 12 clone. I've made both versions and while both are super delicioso, I find the second and more complicated grain bill gives the best version. It just has more complexity.

My brother and I have "merged" our breweries (LOL!) and will do an eleven gallon batch on Friday, 7/3... Then we'll partigyle a small beer for a total of 16 gallons. Two 5.5 gallon batches will use the Westmalle strain (wlp530) in a starter of 4L, and the other will be dry yeast Safale BE-256 which is for Abbey ales. It's new to me but excited to try it out.
 
Jumping back into brewing with both feet using the second recipe of the Westy 12 clone. I've made both versions and while both are super delicioso, I find the second and more complicated grain bill gives the best version. It just has more complexity.

My brother and I have "merged" our breweries (LOL!) and will do an eleven gallon batch on Friday, 7/3... Then we'll partigyle a small beer for a total of 16 gallons. Two 5.5 gallon batches will use the Westmalle strain (wlp530) in a starter of 4L, and the other will be dry yeast Safale BE-256 which is for Abbey ales. It's new to me but excited to try it out.

BE-256 is closer to a Saison type yeast. Lallemand Abbaye is the one to use, unless you already made your purchase.
 
Made the purchase already but do not fear my friend! I plan on using it in the small beer from the second runnings. It will have everything but the Candi sugar and the hop variety will be different. I love saisons so that works well, but was told that it's not really a grist for a saison, but I'm willing to experiment.
 
Even CSI, who sells syrup, later reduced the syrup in that batch size from 2.5 lbs to 2 lbs. And you can mess around with the malts. To me, an all pilsner recipe is just as good as the (more or less) half pilsner, half pale ale.

Great recipe.

I know I’m late to the party but where did you see this? Seems like the CSI site still shows 2.5lbs of D-180.
 
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