Welding two sanke kegs together??

[cwi]

Have you cut and converted kegs before?.

No, I have not found the need to create any Frankencocks.

Kegs are barely worth the effort to cut the tops off to make a BK/HLT/MLT, much less try to weld two of them back together, or even worse, prep them to have to be sent out to get welded, just to increase the capacity by a few gallons. Who knows though, maybe this is the start of a movement and someone will start making commercial 2 BBL brewhouses using stacked 1/2 BBLs. But why stop at 2 BBLs I ask, when the sky is really the limit.

As I stated previously, I believe the best solution is to buy a premade 26g stock pot for ~$200, or even a $150 55g drum as suggested, and then cut it down to size, since the OP doesn't want 55g capacity.

It is like getting a haircut- a whole lot easier to trim some off than to spend all day at the salon getting extensions woven in, and don't I know it.

The drums have even better proportions for an MLT than a stock pot, but I would not trust them to do double duty for use as a BK like some do. All the ones I have seen have a gasketed connection for the bottom, or a least a crimped seal with a crevice. There may be some with a keg-like bottom, I just haven't seen one in person.

 

[zazbnf]

20 gallon stainless pots will be cheaper than the welding fees alone, and you won't have a mash tun that looks like Frankenstein's cock.

Damn, you made me spill my drink.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

ROTFLMAO!!!

:rockin:

 

[kladue]

I second that, it never ceases to amaze me how vociferous the "Experts" are that never have done something like welded kegs together, yet they are the self proclaimed expert on the subject. It makes me want to say "Beam me up Scotty, no signs of intelligent life here", when they go into their rant.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

A seven axis water jet would do the best job of cutting it. No cleanup either

 

[cwi]

I second that, it never ceases to amaze me how vociferous the "Experts" are that never have done something like welded kegs together, yet they are the self proclaimed expert on the subject. It makes me want to say "Beam me up Scotty, no signs of intelligent life here", when they go into their rant.

It seems as though you are misinterpreting the tone of the two posts preceding yours. It is apparent with the follow up post after yours, unless you take that one literally too.

There is a big difference between welding two kegs together buy a guy who has a home shop (which says a lot about the guy, usually), and sending two kegs out to be welded that are going to be prepped by a guy who sounds like he has never plugged in a welder.

If this project solved a problem with no available solution, especially when the existing solution will probably be cheaper than the welding fees alone, it wouldn't get ridiculed.

 

[Golddiggie]

I was composing a response to all the haters on this thread, but then decided to take the higher path...

Something that I cannot let pass though... A proper weld will not fail AT the weld. The metal on either side will fail long before the weld will. IF this was done with solder, then I could see a shotty job failing. Or someone that had no clue as to how to weld stainless steel together.

As for the frankencock, well, at least one person got enjoyment from it.

There's an item on ebray that's close to what I'm looking to make, so it HAS been done before.

As for the rest of the negative Nancy's... How many fingers am I holding up??

BTW, just because I've not MIG/TIG welded before (I have done oxy-acetylene welding) doesn't mean much. I know enough to know I need a pro to do the welds. I've also mentioned that I'll not cut anything until I consult with the welder. I'm not stupid after all... Contrary to what some people might think, this IS a viable project. If nothing else, to help others learn. To think I was simply asking if someone else had done this before when the thread opened... So many 'smarter than you' posts about how other options are better... Except they WILL end up costing me MORE to go with.

 

[cwi]

Something that I cannot let pass though... A proper weld will not fail AT the weld. The metal on either side will fail long before the weld will. IF this was done with solder, then I could see a shotty job failing. Or someone that had no clue as to how to weld stainless steel together.

The metal on either side fails for a number of reasons:
-the filler metal has a much higher tensile strength and/or is much stiffer than the base metal (common with MIG and stick)
(this is not an advantage in most cases, as it causes a localized stress area which can lead to failure)
-the heat affected zone has compromised the integrity and/or temper of the base metal
-both of the above, as well as many others

Someone who has any clue about welding would know that.
On top of that, the only reference to welds failing was regarding the "Eiffel Mash Tun" made from 1000 soda pop cans. Hard to believe someone actually built one, but then again this thread is about paying someone to weld two kegs together to make a 20g mash tun.

As for the frankencock, well, at least one person got enjoyment from it.

There's an item on ebray that's close to what I'm looking to make, so it HAS been done before.

John Wayne Bobbit has a Frankencock. That doesn't make it a good idea, or make me want to go out and have it done, too- especially by somebody off Ebay.

Contrary to what some people might think, this IS a viable project. If nothing else, to help others learn. To think I was simply asking if someone else had done this before when the thread opened... So many 'smarter than you' posts about how other options are better... Except they WILL end up costing me MORE to go with.

If you will go back, the 'smarter than you' posts started after yet another of your responses deriding someone's response (To your request).
I don't know what you mean by 'viable'. No one said it was impossible, just not worth the time/effort/money.
As for cost, you can get a new 80qt pot for $150. Following your logic you could hand hammer out one of your kegs until flat, and drill 1000 holes by hand. Then you would have a 'free' false bottom with a total cost of $150 for your new MLT.

 

[phoenixs4r]

The lack of support on this forum compared to a year ago is appalling. OP, just do it. Does it make sense? No. So ****ing what?

ZOMG HES GOING TO WASTE MONEY!!! Is it your money? No, ****ing move on.

 

[cwi]

The lack of support on this forum compared to a year ago is appalling. OP, just do it. Does it make sense? No. So ****ing what?

ZOMG HES GOING TO WASTE MONEY!!! Is it your money? No, ****ing move on.

This thread hasn't been about supporting the OP for some time- since the third post when he chastised the first responder. Most people are just having fun. The OP is known for posting up his 'projects' for feedback, with the same retorts for any advice that differs from his preconceived ideas.

As for support, I myself even gave a viable easy way to scribe a line around the keg, and even improved upon a more complicated way that would give an even more accurate cut line.

As for his wasting money, he claims he is saving money by doing this, which is what confuses people who suggest alternative solutions.

 

[klyph]

I hope this project gets done, I want to see how it turns out.

 

[truebe]

I'm sort of torn in this issue...

Clearly for the sake of accuracy it should be called Frankenstein's Monster's Cock. But that name is very cumbersome, and the name Frankenstein's Cock will still get the point across in spite of it's inaccuracy. I'm just think I would constantly be annoyed by that little incorrectness.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

I beat the horse 'til it died and it still won't go anywhere!