Upright Keezer, 8 taps, 11 kegs

[GriffinsRoost]

Got the freezer one year old, starting to source the parts. How long are the shanks have to be?
Any issues with defrosting?? Anything you would do differently from the original build?

I will be removing all the shelves so my plan is to have 10 taps (if it is possible) and 2 lines for carbonation so total will be 12 kegs. Also I am thinking of getting Inkbird controller. Where do you put your temperature probe??? I would guess in the middle of the fridge..

Thanks

No issues with the defrost. The cycle is short enough that you don't notice it with the thermal load.

10 taps would be tough but do-able I would think. I am running 6, with shanks in place for 2 more. Doubt you could get 12 kegs in due to the hump at the back on the bottom. 6 on top max. I have been able to squeeze 4 in on the bottom a few times.

Shanks were 4- 1/8"

Edit: Forgot to comment on the inkbird. I would skip it. You can use the coarse adjust screw on the built in thermostat. Takes an hour or two to dial it in, but once you get it where you want, you are set. Saves $ and un-necessary modification.

Instructions here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...tat-to-32f-eliminate-external-control.249612/

 

[romsan]

No issues with the defrost. The cycle is short enough that you don't notice it with the thermal load.

10 taps would be tough but do-able I would think. I am running 6, with shanks in place for 2 more. Doubt you could get 12 kegs in due to the hump at the back on the bottom. 6 on top max. I have been able to squeeze 4 in on the bottom a few times.

Shanks were 4- 1/8"

Edit: Forgot to comment on the inkbird. I would skip it. You can use the coarse adjust screw on the built in thermostat. Takes an hour or two to dial it in, but once you get it where you want, you are set. Saves $ and un-necessary modification.

Instructions here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...tat-to-32f-eliminate-external-control.249612/

Thank you, I'll try to see if I can dial it in. I did went through that thread and it looks like the newer fridges are harder to adjust. I am removing all the shelves and there should be enough space for 12 kegs.
Yes, I am not 100% sure if I could fit 10 taps, need to measure everything again, but it would be nice.

 

[JonW]

Thank you, I'll try to see if I can dial it in. I did went through that thread and it looks like the newer fridges are harder to adjust. I am removing all the shelves and there should be enough space for 12 kegs.
Yes, I am not 100% sure if I could fit 10 taps, need to measure everything again, but it would be nice.

The only way you might get 12 kegs in is if you remove the door shelves. Otherwise they best you'll do is 5 kegs on the bottom in a staggered configuration. 11 Kegs on mine gets very tight. I also wouldn't give up my door shelves as it's nice to put glasses and bottled beer there.

 

[ttuato]

Hose management will be a limiting factor with 10 taps.

I just finished mine today (still need to clean it up). I have the CO2 & Nitro tank in fridge, and I went with regular taps so i have 10ft of draft lines - 8 kegs & 8 taps. 20cuft.

CO2 goes to three secondaries each with a distribution block mounted in back.

• One set for NEIPA at 2.2 vol
• One set for Pilsner, WCPA, Wheat at 2.5 vol
• One set for soda water & force carb

Also have One CO2 auxilary line through the ran through back to outside for closed system transfer. And a Nitro auxiliary line out back to outside for purging cans & growlers.

Thanks for the inspiration @JonW

 

[hubkapp]

Mine would look good sitting there!

 

[romsan]

No issues with the defrost. The cycle is short enough that you don't notice it with the thermal load.

10 taps would be tough but do-able I would think. I am running 6, with shanks in place for 2 more. Doubt you could get 12 kegs in due to the hump at the back on the bottom. 6 on top max. I have been able to squeeze 4 in on the bottom a few times.

Shanks were 4- 1/8"

Edit: Forgot to comment on the inkbird. I would skip it. You can use the coarse adjust screw on the built in thermostat. Takes an hour or two to dial it in, but once you get it where you want, you are set. Saves $ and un-necessary modification.

Instructions here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...tat-to-32f-eliminate-external-control.249612/

Will this shank work??
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Intertap-4-...190646?hash=item3d56424cb6:g:6OYAAOSwrMlZe1-D

it says it is 4" but you said you used 4-1/8

 

[JonW]

Will this shank work??
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Intertap-4-...190646?hash=item3d56424cb6:g:6OYAAOSwrMlZe1-D

it says it is 4" but you said you used 4-1/8

Yes, those will work just fine.

 

[KIDD69]

have any of you mounted your secondary regulators to the back wall with some self tapping screws? I know the rear wall is just an air chamber, but don't know if it can hold the weight of 6 secondary regulators.

No screws, just used the existing shelf brackets.

 

[ateene]

Just scored on finding a Frigidair 22cf on CL for $50, will be starting my build.

 

[Jayjay1976]

Urrgh. I'm just about to buy a chest freezer but the cost per cubic foot is a lot higher than the same in an upright. Has to live in my garage; starting to think an upright makes more sense.

 

[benco]

Urrgh. I'm just about to buy a chest freezer but the cost per cubic foot is a lot higher than the same in an upright. Has to live in my garage; starting to think an upright makes more sense.

I have mine in the garage as well, it takes up less floor space. But I also have a small chest freezer for fermenting. Mine has six taps.

 

[ateene]

I'm starting to build the wood frame. From your pictures it looks like there are side mount holes for the wire shelf. Where the holes already there or did you add them?

 

[tmendick]

If you put enough support in the shelf, there is no reason to need the "side holes".
You would have to cut the wires a bit so the rack will fit in the fridge level though.

 

[ateene]

Anyone using the Gov Reg for their secondary? I'm considering it for my build.

 

[ateene]

Anyone using Accuflex Bev-Seal beer lines, and any issues with them flexing by the door?

 

[benco]

Anyone using Accuflex Bev-Seal beer lines, and any issues with them flexing by the door?

I’ve seen people use it in a chest freezer. I don’t know what the advantages are with it. I didn’t know any better and ordered for my upright keezer and realized that stuff is supper stiff. I went with regular bev line which is perfect. I think 7/16 by 3/16, love it!

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, the primary advantages provided by Bev Seal Ultra 235 line are conveyed by its PET liner. This substantially cuts oxygen permeability, and perhaps more importantly eliminates the "plastic" flavor common to solid PVC lines to which some folks are particularly sensitive (a genetics thing).

It does have a broader bend radius than solid PVC (eg: the industry standard Bevlex 200), and what is sold as 3/16" ID line is actually 1/5" ID - so lengths are appreciably longer for the same dispensing configuration. And of course that liner conveys premium pricing as well, but on the up side the liner is much smoother than solid PVC and should clean up better and last longer...

Cheers!

 

[missiletech]

Jon... And anyone else with a 20cf keezer.

What were the interior dimensions?

I'm looking at getting a 2 door commerical refrigerator where the left side will be for kegs and the right for food.

Since the cost is pretty steep I want to be sure I'm thinking this through. I want to be able to do a two tier like these freezers on that side.

Any thoughts are appreciated. I share a house with my in laws, they have their own side of the house and we share a garage fridge. This simplifies and cleans up our food storage in the garage and adds volume for the food while giving me beer space.

Thanks in advance.

*Any 54" solid two door commerical refrigerator.

 

[CottonClub]

You could measure the size x the number of the kegs you want to add, then back into the needed dimensions.

 

[JonW]

Here's the internal dimensions of mine:
Height: 57.5"
Width: 27.25"
Depth1: 23.5" (top shelf area)
Depth2: 20.25" (bottom shelf area)
Depth of door racks: 5.25"

The bottom shelf area has a hump in the back that cuts into the depth. On mine, I can fit 5 kegs on the bottom shelf with them in a 3/2 stagger. Top shelf is 2x3 kegs (6). This is maintaining all the door shelves. If you remove the shelves on the door, you can then fit 6 kegs on the bottom shelf. I opted to keep all my door shelves for bottled beer, glasses, etc.

 

[missiletech]

Thanks Jon.

Here's what I'm eyeballing.

 

[KBONE]

Just want to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread. I can't tell you how many times I read through the entire thread and studied all the pictures. I've been busy the last couple months with my very own upright keezer build..

I literally found the freezer on the side of the road and crossed my fingers that it worked. Sourced most of the parts lightly used from Facebook Marketplace. Biggest chunk of change was the pretty stainless steel drip tray.

Cheers!

 

[fuzzybee]

I'm hopefully picking up my freezer tomorrow from a Facebook ad. Is there anything different any of y'all would have done? I'm planning on using Evabarrier tubing for both gas and liquid everywhere - it's supposed to be pretty flexible.

 

[IslandLizard]

I'm hopefully picking up my freezer tomorrow from a Facebook ad. Is there anything different any of y'all would have done? I'm planning on using Evabarrier tubing for both gas and liquid everywhere - it's supposed to be pretty flexible.

Ask them to turn it on the day before you pick it up, or in your case, now!
That way you'll know it works, runs and holds up.

Yes, EVA Barrier for the win! Minimal bending radius is like 2-3" with a little applied heat from a soak in hot water or a hairdryer, from what I've read.

 

[Konadog]

I just switched to the EVA Barrier tubing and can say it's a great way to go. Very flexible, and much shorter tube runs that the Bev-Seal Ultra tubing I started with. You won't regret it!

 

[Jayjay1976]

I've had mixed results with my Eva barrier setup. My keezer has 4 taps and holds 5 kegs, while shifting them around in there to neaten up the beer lines one of the beer out posts started spraying beer where the tubing is pushed into the fitting. I had been watching elsewhere and the tubing on that keg had been pulled somewhat when the ball lock fitting needed to swivel but didn't. I've seen videos of how much force the push in fittings can withstand, but apparently not without leaking.

I have left that line disconnected from the keg since that day but I plan on trimming the tubing and replacing the fitting just in case it was somehow damaged or defective.

I chose the Eva barrier and push fittings in the first place to allow shorter lines but I didn't know I'd also be giving up peace of mind about beer leaks. My gas side I don't worry about at all, hose clamps and beefy tubing haven't failed me and I kinda wish I'd gone that route on the beer side.

 

[sibelman]

I've had mixed results with my Eva barrier setup. My keezer has 4 taps and holds 5 kegs, while shifting them around in there to neaten up the beer lines one of the beer out posts started spraying beer where the tubing is pushed into the fitting. I had been watching elsewhere and the tubing on that keg had been pulled somewhat when the ball lock fitting needed to swivel but didn't. I've seen videos of how much force the push in fittings can withstand, but apparently not without leaking.

I have left that line disconnected from the keg since that day but I plan on trimming the tubing and replacing the fitting just in case it was somehow damaged or defective.

I chose the Eva barrier and push fittings in the first place to allow shorter lines but I didn't know I'd also be giving up peace of mind about beer leaks. My gas side I don't worry about at all, hose clamps and beefy tubing haven't failed me and I kinda wish I'd gone that route on the beer side.

I too experienced this kind of leaking. I've kept the EVA tubing, but abandoned the push-in fittings and reverted to barbs and Oetiker clamps. In a small/crowded kegerator interior it's hard to avoid stressing the fittings when wrestling kegs into place. I don't want any leaks!

 

[TenaCJed]

Same here, EVA tubing but I am no longer using the push-in fittings, too easy to crack. I have the keg overflow setup and the elbow now has a crack. Mind you, this sits in a storage container until needed when filling a keg, it is not being used roughly and it has already cracked and you can here gas coming out of the crack which defeats a closed transfer!

 

[Odin's_FJ40]

I

fwiw, the primary advantages provided by Bev Seal Ultra 235 line are conveyed by its PET liner. This substantially cuts oxygen permeability, and perhaps more importantly eliminates the "plastic" flavor common to solid PVC lines to which some folks are particularly sensitive (a genetics thing).

It does have a broader bend radius than solid PVC (eg: the industry standard Bevlex 200), and what is sold as 3/16" ID line is actually 1/5" ID - so lengths are appreciably longer for the same dispensing configuration. And of course that liner conveys premium pricing as well, but on the up side the liner is much smoother than solid PVC and should clean up better and last longer...

Cheers!

I know your post is old but can you purchase the line in less than 100' lengths? Seems that is all I can find.

 

[Konadog]

Interesting, I've used the John Guest fittings since I built my set up 4 years ago and have never had an issue with push-in fittings. I did put 90° elbows on the back of my shanks to relieve some stress on the lines, but never had any issues with them.