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Unclear how to proceed--dry hopping

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mongoose33

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Brewed this last weekend. Took a while to finish fermentation--almost 8 days which is the longest I've ever had something go like that. Used S-05 instead of Pacman.

I'm expecting to dryhop in the keg. Any advice on doing that? I've read and read about dryhopping and advice is all over the place.

The beer is 8 days old, sitting at 66 degrees right now (Fermchamber, that's what it's been all along). I could raise it to 71 or 72 to finish for a couple days, would that be helpful to do this? I just took a hydrometer reading, it's done (1.013). The beer tastes ok, no off flavors I could detect, so I'm not sure a temp rise will do much.

Though this is my 24th batch, I don't brew IPAs much (as in, this is the first), and it's for a friend who "helped" during the brew day. He bought the ingredients, and we're making it for primarily his consumption.

I have a hop screen cylinder I'm going to use to dry hop--it's this one from NorCal brewing.

What i figured I'd do is rack the beer to keg, then dry hop for 3-5 days, pull the hop screen out (repurging of O2 when done), then crashing and serving shortly thereafter.

Anything in this that looks out of whack in these plans or that I should be looking out for?
 
No need to raise the temp with US-05.

Fill the keg with star san, pressurize with co2 and empty via the beer out.

Transfer from primary via the beer out

Load the keg hopper, open keg, add to the keg and purge the headspace throughly. say 30 times at 10 psi, 10 times at 30 psi

Keep at room temp for 3 days, then fridge and carb.

You don't need to remove the hops, it will be fine at cool temps.
 
No need to raise the temp with US-05.

Fill the keg with star san, pressurize with co2 and empty via the beer out.

Transfer from primary via the beer out

Load the keg hopper, open keg, add to the keg and purge the headspace throughly. say 30 times at 10 psi, 10 times at 30 psi

Keep at room temp for 3 days, then fridge and carb.

You don't need to remove the hops, it will be fine at cool temps.

That's right where I am right now--kegged it Tuesday evening, added the hops via the hop tube, and it's been sitting at 66 degrees since then. Didn't raise the temp.

All I need to do tonite (Friday) is drop the Inkbird temp to 32 degrees and then put it on the gas.

I juiced it w/ a bit of gas last night to see how it was doing--terrific nose, maybe the best I've ever experienced in terms of a nice citrusy aroma. Not quite there with flavor, but getting there.
 
Why is it not necessary to pump the temperature a little with US05?

I routinely do it but only because I understood I should to get the most attenuation.

Was that because it's done fermenting so no need or something particular to US-05?
 
When dry hopping in keg I like to attach hops with dental floss and purge keg slightly with hops inside before racking.
 
Why is it not necessary to pump the temperature a little with US05?

I routinely do it but only because I understood I should to get the most attenuation.

Was that because it's done fermenting so no need or something particular to US-05?

We ferment cool so we control the byproducts of fermentation. With fermenting too warm the yeast produce esters that aren't pleasant to our tastes and can produce fusel alcohol too. As the ferment slows at those cool temps, we can let the temperature rise because the yeast will no longer produce those compounds. There can still be some acetaldehyde or diacetyl, intermediate products of the fermentation, left in our beer and if there is, warming the beer will encourage the yeast to complete its job. Is it necessary to warm the beer? Many time it is not but it won't hurt to do so and it is so easy why not. In lager beers this is common and brewers of lagers call this a diacetyl rest.
 
I ramp with all my beers as you say to assist attenuation. However some yeast don't actually need it and will reach the same FG regardless. Its normally English and Belgian strains that need ramping
 
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