Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

[jabba11]

just another brew day!

 

[Horseflesh]

After my staining or rust incident, I decided to repassivate my gear. CBS suggested citric acid but didn't actually recommend a procedure. There's another thread here where someone linked a cool NASA report on passivating with citric acid, and I followed the directions as show on the slide below: 4% solution by weight, 140F, 120 minutes.

To make 4% citric acid solution, use 151 g/gallon or 5.32 oz/gal. With my tap water this had a pH of 1.92.

This was the cheapest food-grade citric acid I could find on Amazon... $24 for 10 lbs. (I use it for some other things, too.)

I neutralized the acid with baking soda before dumping it. (go slow!) I doubt this is actually necessary if you dilute it a lot on its way down the drain.

 

[CodeSection]

just another brew day!

Nice conical there!

 

[prosperbrews]

I am 2 brews in with my CBS system (with mods). So far so good!

 

[jabba11]

Nice conical there!

This is only the second batch in my Spike. I have an SS BME Chronical as well. The spike is an upgrade in everyway with ONE exception. The lid gasket is a nightmare to get to stay in place. Its a bad design as there's no real "groove" that locks it in place like the SS does. I had to take the lid off the other day because it was leaking. Doing that with the coil installed and an active ferment going on is something I don't wanna do again. I will now have to pressure test the thing every time as I don't trust it or until I find a way to get to stay in place while flipping it and putting the band on. I DO like being able to take the lid off to clean it but if this continues to be an issue I wouldn't recommend it over a SS Unitank even though you pretty much have to CIP it.

 

[jabba11]

I am 2 brews in with my CBS system (with mods). So far so good!

everything working better with the smaller hoses etc in place?

 

[CodeSection]

This is only the second batch in my Spike. I have an SS BME Chronical as well. The spike is an upgrade in everyway with ONE exception. The lid gasket is a nightmare to get to stay in place. Its a bad design as there's no real "groove" that locks it in place like the SS does. I had to take the lid off the other day because it was leaking. Doing that with the coil installed and an active ferment going on is something I don't wanna do again. I will now have to pressure test the thing every time as I don't trust it or until I find a way to get to stay in place while flipping it and putting the band on. I DO like being able to take the lid off to clean it but if this continues to be an issue I wouldn't recommend it over a SS Unitank even though you pretty much have to CIP it.

I have yet to use my CF10. Hopefully, I will be using it the first time next weekend or the following weekend.

I read and watched reviews on YouTube that said and showed the same thing that you described. I thought they had corrected it by creating seal hold sections by slightly pinching the lid sides in various places.

I'm not sure why this design is such a problem as the swimming pool industry uses a similar seal design for their DE filters.

Do you have any tips you could give either on the seal or anything else associated with the CF10?

 

[jabba11]

I have yet to use my CF10. Hopefully, I will be using it the first time next weekend or the following weekend.

I read and watched reviews on YouTube that said and showed the same thing that you described. I thought they had corrected it by creating seal hold sections by slightly pinching the lid sides in various places.

I'm not sure why this design is such a problem as the swimming pool industry uses a similar seal design for their DE filters.

Do you have any tips you could give either on the seal or anything else associated with the CF10?

Not really, Ive only used it twice like I said. Be careful pulling it around its pretty unstable on 3 legs but if you be careful its not a real issue

 

[jahlinux]

Just had my element plug fail. Not sure what would have caused this. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[prosperbrews]

This is only the second batch in my Spike. I have an SS BME Chronical as well. The spike is an upgrade in everyway with ONE exception. The lid gasket is a nightmare to get to stay in place. Its a bad design as there's no real "groove" that locks it in place like the SS does. I had to take the lid off the other day because it was leaking. Doing that with the coil installed and an active ferment going on is something I don't wanna do again. I will now have to pressure test the thing every time as I don't trust it or until I find a way to get to stay in place while flipping it and putting the band on. I DO like being able to take the lid off to clean it but if this continues to be an issue I wouldn't recommend it over a SS Unitank even though you pretty much have to CIP it.

My personal opinion is that the ss unitank is quite a bit better product than Spikes. 2 cents

 

[prosperbrews]

everything working better with the smaller hoses etc in place?

Yes all is well. I can never get to full open on top of the grain bed so it’s never been an issue. The sight glass is a life saver to ensure you don’t starve the element. If I open it up too much on the top circulation, you can see the liquid level quickly drop in the sight glass which tells me to back it off. Once some mods are in place, I believe this system is very close to a perfect biab solution

 

[jabba11]

Yes all is well. I can never get to full open on top of the grain bed so it’s never been an issue. The sight glass is a life saver to ensure you don’t starve the element. If I open it up too much on the top circulation, you can see the liquid level quickly drop in the sight glass which tells me to back it off. Once some mods are in place, I believe this system is very close to a perfect biab solution

yes I miss my sight glass for nothing but this. I watch it from the top nowadays but Ive become pretty adept and using it in a manner that it doesn't happen much anymore. Anytime I do a new brew with a heavy grain load I watch it like a hawk though LOL

 

[jabba11]

My personal opinion is that the ss unitank is quite a bit better product than Spikes. 2 cents

"quite a but better"...meh I wouldn't go that far. Its mostly about the lid. I do prefer being able to lift off the lid. Other than the lid the build construction and capabilities are the same IMHO. The spike is definitely a step up from my SS Chronical but hell I pressure transfer etc from my chroinical too. The only thing I cant do with it is ferment at pressure. It also has bulkhead fittings on some parts but in 2 years these have NEVER been a problem for me. Spike is sending me a new gasket and Ill see if that helps but I am skeptical. They were quick to respond and attempt a fix. SS is very well known for this as well.

 

[jabba11]

Just had my element plug fail. Not sure what would have caused this. Anyone have any ideas?View attachment 571231

I do not know what would cause this but I would definitely seek help form an electrician before I plugged things back in, that looks like a fire waiting to happen or worse

 

[tofuguy]

There is a loose connection in that terminal. High resistance drove heat... That is the result.

 

[jabba11]

well first issue with my system. either the power supply or the topsflo is caput. Theres a little green light on my power supply. When I turn on the pump it starts flashing (usually its a steady green). not sure what but Ill start with the supply and go from there

 

[jabba11]

well, its not the power supply. I bought a new one, its doing the same thing as the old one. I sent CBS and email and am waiting to hear back. The pump was rated at 20k hours I doubt I got 1/100th of that. My system is two years old however so }I don't necessarily expect CBS to warranty it still the system is useless without a pump and a new one is 140 dollars... also at 2 years old its outside the TOPSFLO warranty as well as far as I can tell

 

[jabba11]

CBS didn't offer much help but honestly they don't have to as both my system and the pump are out of warranty. They don't even use the TD-5 in their systems anymore. I sent Topsflo a message but haven't heard back. I have a chugger and so IM waiting on some fittings to use that but I may end up buying a topsflo again in the future. Im really just trying to get the motor part as the head for the thing is perfectly fine so if I could find that somehow id say probably half the price of a new one. Not real happy to have to buy a 140 dollar part for the thing 2 years that was supposed to last 20k hours. I doubt I had 200 hours on it realistically.

 

[mcgimpkins]

So I don't have any experience with the Topsflo TD-5. I have a chugger pump that I've been using for years recently upgraded with the Blichmann RipTide Upgrade Kit. I've got to state from the convenience side of cleaning it as well as the ability to purge air and reduce cavitation, the RipTide head has been pretty useful and superior to a Chugger Pump.

Take my $0.02 however you like, but if I had to do it all over again and buy a new pump I would probably get a Blichmann RipTide.

 

[jabba11]

So I don't have any experience with the Topsflo TD-5. I have a chugger pump that I've been using for years recently upgraded with the Blichmann RipTide Upgrade Kit. I've got to state from the convenience side of cleaning it as well as the ability to purge air and reduce cavitation, the RipTide head has been pretty useful and superior to a Chugger Pump.

Take my $0.02 however you like, but if I had to do it all over again and buy a new pump I would probably get a Blichmann RipTide.

Ya I get that. But I have my system setup in a way that puts the pump directly inline and makes it a bit simpler. Im going to use my chugger in the interim but Im hoping I can simply get the motor from Topsflo but sadly I haven heard back from them

 

[cyclonebeer]

New question:

Are you folks fermenting in just a primary, or are you using a secondary? In my old 3V system, I got away from using a secondary fermenter because it was an extra step, and I did not perceive any difference in the finished product. I kept that same train of thought when I started brewing on my CBS rig, and just used a primary fermenter. Lately, I've been using a secondary fermenter and have been impressed with the results. I feel that this system is just destined to send a relatively "dirtier" wort out of the kettle into the fermenter. I don't use any kind of filter or trub trap between the kettle and fermenter. Even after a good whirlpool after chilling, a lot of crap is left in the kettle, but a lot of crap makes it's way into the fermenter. I always had thought cloudy wort was just an aesthetic thing - stuff would settle out, and all would be fine. Now, I'm starting to believe that getting the beer off of that trub / yeast cake and sending it to a secondary in a cleaner condition makes a difference. Anybody want to chime in on this?

 

[RockyMtnGT]

I don't have the Nano Brew system yet, but I've never used a secondary vessel. I ferment in bottling buckets with a SS ball valve. When fermentation is complete, I cold crash for 3-4 days, then transfer directly from the ball valve into the out side of the keg. Prior to that I filled the keg with Starsan, then pushed it out with C02. I also add gelatin to the keg before racking. After the first few pulls from the keg, the beer is crystal clear.

 

[Horseflesh]

While I haven't done secondary I am skeptical that it would have a big impact on clarity. Anything that falls to the bottom is out of the picture, right? So whether you transfer into a keg or a secondary, only what is still in solution will factor into clarity from that point on.

In other words, for a secondary to help clarity, you have to believe that the stuff on the bottom of the vessel has a clarity impact on the beer above it. Right? Add that doesn't seem likely to me. But like I said, I haven't done it myself.

 

[jabba11]

I do not secondary. The only time I would probably ever do one now is for a sour or something I was putting in very long term storage. that said I have conicals and the ability to dump trub but I rarely even do that. Additionally I can get very clean wort out of my system and have never had a problem getting my beers to clear.

 

[SoInBrew]

This may have been covered, somewhere in the 35 pages. I only went through about half of it. Is there a calculation or way to determine which spray nozzle to use based on entry water pressure? My house is about 40psi. I am thinking the 6gph nozzle, but haven't seen anything other than anecdotal info to support it.

 

[jabba11]

elegant solution to my pump issues. This actually works very well. I am concerned about the placement of the pump as water getting into the motor is a concern of course and I plan to build a shield to cover it soon. (chugger should really include a shield IMHO id pay an extra couple bucks for one). Flow rate is definitely better than the topsflo. CBS said they don't sell it anymore and include chuggers with their systems again. I also originally had built a box for my system to be on and plan to put that back in place soon to raise it up some so priming is less an issue.View media item 69234

 

[Horseflesh]

I have a couple of chuggers that I got with a pile of used stuff I bought. They are burly, but the Topsflow is much easier to handle and disassemble for cleaning. I prefer the Topsflow today while mine works... but if it craps out, I ain't gonna replace it.

 

[jabba11]

I have a couple of chuggers that I got with a pile of used stuff I bought. They are burly, but the Topsflow is much easier to handle and disassemble for cleaning. I prefer the Topsflow today while mine works... but if it craps out, I ain't gonna replace it.

if I could buy the topsflo motor ITSELF at a reduced cost I may go back to it. I mean if my chugger craps out at least I can buy the one with the plastic head and mount my stainless to it. Honestly the setup I created works pretty dang well though and I no longer have to worry about all the weight hanging on the fitting on the pot.

 

[prosperbrews]

Now that I’m 10 brews In on the CBS system, hoping we can get the conversation going on efficiency. I have my volumes and temperatures dialed in right now - no problems there. However, my efficiency has constantly been in the 60-65% range across all kinds of grain types - wheat beers, IPAs, cream ales, etc.

Again my temps are always spot on, I build my water profiles from scratch using RO water, and my PH has always been on point.

Additionally, I’ve tried crush sizes ranging from .030 to .045. I’ve tried double crushing the grains at .045. Nothing helps. Obviously, the tighter crushes impacts circulation. I always stir the hell out of the mash and then let it sit.

Finally, I’ve modded the system to use the ss brewtech mash manifold. I always mash for 90 minutes and do a mash out at 168f for 10 minutes. And still the best I can do is a sorry 65% efficiency. Anyone have any ideas? What are you seeing with your system?

 

[Horseflesh]

Do you mean brewhouse or mash efficiency?

Either way, my efficiency is also lower than I expected. 65-70% Brewhouse is typical, mash efficiency 70-75%. Occasionally I will get a couple more % points, not sure why, but I almost always miss my OG target by a few points.

Like you I hit my pH targets and use the Ss manifold. I also did tests and found I require a 90 minute mash, or I am throwing points away. I have tried stirring lots to not stirring at all, and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

I am stuck using the shop mill for now, but hearing that you're trying different gaps and still having trouble gives me second thoughts about getting my own mill.

I have the giant 20 gal kettle and only do 5 gallon batches, maybe mash thickness has something to do with it?