Unboxing Colorado Brewing Systems new Single Vessel System

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Thanks, just thought of this issue, need to see how much room I have with the basket in the pot. May need to trim it down some
 
Brewing a 10 gallon Schwarzbier and it's wide open and going well. The recirc arm rotated and sprayed my walls with wort. This needs a serious fix. So frustrated with this one single aspect of this system.

I may get it welded to the basket the. Add a tangential port on the side for whirlpooling. May kill my no hose change setup is all.

On the down under version the recirc arm's mounting point is welded onto the basket.
 
Brewed my 5th batch. So far I am pretty disappointed. For the two years I previously brewed in my cooler tun I never had an issue hitting my numbers. I have yet to hit my numbers with this. A few other observations, the basket needs to be taller, when your doing ten gal batches you have to raise the basket up otherwise the grain spills over the top. 5 gal batches no problems. The recirc arm is nice, but again, you have to have the basket lowered for it to work. Mine is a year old and I think they mount on top of the kettle now so this may not be an issue.

Overall I am glad I bought it, except for the terrible efficiency I get no matter what I do. It does speed up the brew day which is nice by making everything in one place and easier to clean.
 
Brewed my 5th batch. So far I am pretty disappointed. For the two years I previously brewed in my cooler tun I never had an issue hitting my numbers. I have yet to hit my numbers with this. A few other observations, the basket needs to be taller, when your doing ten gal batches you have to raise the basket up otherwise the grain spills over the top. 5 gal batches no problems. The recirc arm is nice, but again, you have to have the basket lowered for it to work. Mine is a year old and I think they mount on top of the kettle now so this may not be an issue.

Overall I am glad I bought it, except for the terrible efficiency I get no matter what I do. It does speed up the brew day which is nice by making everything in one place and easier to clean.
What mash efficiency do you get?
Do you do a squeeze and pour-sparge, or just pull and go? those can make a pretty big difference in numbers, if you don't want to just add more grain and call it good.
 
I used to get around high 70s, now mid low 60s. I pull the basket up and let it hang for 10 15 min while i start boil, I did try sparging with a gallon or so of hot water to see if that would help rinse the grain, didnt seem to make much of a difference.
 
Brewed another 10 gallons last night. 7# of wheat malt and rice hulls. 23# total grain bill and 17.7 gallons of water were maxing it out. Mash eff was 76%, brew house was 67%

I am not sold on the solid side basket at all. None of the water between the kettle and basket touches grain until the basket is raised. Is this a big deal? Probably not. I am trying to think up a better option for recirculation, there is a ton of temp stratification in this system from top to bottom. So far my ideas are to order a new full mesh basket or devise some way to recirculate things better.
 
Brewed another 10 gallons last night. 7# of wheat malt and rice hulls. 23# total grain bill and 17.7 gallons of water were maxing it out. Mash eff was 76%, brew house was 67%

I am not sold on the solid side basket at all. None of the water between the kettle and basket touches grain until the basket is raised. Is this a big deal? Probably not. I am trying to think up a better option for recirculation, there is a ton of temp stratification in this system from top to bottom. So far my ideas are to order a new full mesh basket or devise some way to recirculate things better.

Have you contacted Tim at Colorado Brewing concerning your issues? He ha.s always been very helpful to me...
 
I have just the pot and basket from CO. I picked up the recirculation doo dad that Stout uses for cheap in the for sale section here. I had tri clover fittings welded to the top and bottom of my lid. 1"+ butterfly valve with 1" tubing going up to lid. I'll take pics when its all setup and ready plus tell you how it works. This is a 1bbl system so my pump is a March Nano pump. I hoping flow won't be an issue.
 
Oh wait I do have a pic of it from way back when I got it to make sure it fit.

IMG_20160125_074202.jpg
 
No way that would work on 10 gallon batches and a 20 gallon kettle, it would be buried in the grain bed.

Have not contacted Tim on the basket, but he is sending me a new recirc piece to see if that stays attached better.
 
In the for sale section here. It attaches with tri clamps.

I looked around and didnt see it. is there a specific name for it?

I think I am going to use some bolts to raise the screen up the top of the kettle... this will keep the grain from going over the sides with ten gal batches. This way I wont have to use my pulley to suspend it like I do now...
 
I looked around and didnt see it. is there a specific name for it?

I think I am going to use some bolts to raise the screen up the top of the kettle... this will keep the grain from going over the sides with ten gal batches. This way I wont have to use my pulley to suspend it like I do now...

Stout Brewing sells them here:

Sparge Arm 10"
http://conical-fermenter.com/Sparge-Arm-10.html

Sparge Arm 12"
http://conical-fermenter.com/Sparge-Arm-12.html

Sparge Arm 18"
http://conical-fermenter.com/18-Inch-Sparge-Arm.html
 
I got a new one because mine kept bending at the fork. And this one is doing the trick. Same design but had less space between the fork and seemed to be welded better. Hope it holds. Two brews with it and and so far so good.
 
Yeah it is the same just seems like they took their time on this one. Other ones looked like a beginning welder put them together.
 
They must have changed the design because I just got my nano system in this week and that piece is welded onto the basket. Hopefully that will work out better. Can't wait to get it all setup for my first batch. Still also trying to figure out the best route in regards to gfci. Either replace the breaker or buy an inline cord.

20161118_063343.jpg
 
They are welded on the nanos because they have a whirlpool port on the kettle. Ours can be removed so we can use it on the mash and as a whirlpool on the kettle because we don't have the dedicated whirlpool.
 
Mine is the nano brewer home also, but I did have the whirlpool port added so I guess that's why it's welded on.
 
I'm thinking of ordering the 25gal Nano-Brewer Down Under. Does anyone use an immersion chiller? Wondering if the heating element would get damaged.

The website claims you should get 85% efficiency with these setups. Has anyone been able to get efficiencies that high?
 
I asked about an immersion chiller touching the element and was told it was OK. (I still ended up making feet out of copper wire. I do 5 gal batches in the big 20 gal kettle so if my chiller was cockeyed resting on the element half of it would stick out of the wort.)

I've only done one batch on my Nano Home and I don't recall the efficiency figures.
 
I do 5 gal batches in the big 20 gal kettle so if my chiller was cockeyed resting on the element half of it would stick out of the wort.)

I'm hoping I won't have any issues brewing five gallon batches in the 25 gal kettle. Tim from Colorado Brewing doesn't think I'll have any problems. He said I may need to add a little extra water if brewing a really big beer and just boil a little longer.
 
I am sure 5 gal batches will be manageable, but I am also sure that you will need to make some accommodations. Here's how it is in the 20 gal kettle...

- You need about 4 gallons of water in the kettle to get the bottom of the basket wet.
- The recirc arm comes down to about the 10 or 11 gallon mark, meaning, a typical 5 gal batch mash with ~8 gallons total volume is WELL BELOW the wort return. So, the returning wort will splash like crazy unless you modify the return.

It was actually really easy to modify the return. I got a foot of the thick-walled silicone hose from my LHBS, with an ID big enough that I could muscle it on to the return. Then I used copper wire to wrap the hose with enough coils that I could bend it and aim it. It's ugly, but actually works pretty well. The copper makes it just strong enough that it doesn't wiggle around even when the pump is running full speed.

KoFVHUj.jpg


Between extending the recirc arm and increasing the volume of your batches I am sure you can adapt. Extending boil time means you can't play with first wort hopping though, but that's not the end of the world.
 
I am sure 5 gal batches will be manageable, but I am also sure that you will need to make some accommodations. Here's how it is in the 20 gal kettle...

- You need about 4 gallons of water in the kettle to get the bottom of the basket wet.
- The recirc arm comes down to about the 10 or 11 gallon mark, meaning, a typical 5 gal batch mash with ~8 gallons total volume is WELL BELOW the wort return. So, the returning wort will splash like crazy unless you modify the return.

It was actually really easy to modify the return. I got a foot of the thick-walled silicone hose from my LHBS, with an ID big enough that I could muscle it on to the return. Then I used copper wire to wrap the hose with enough coils that I could bend it and aim it. It's ugly, but actually works pretty well. The copper makes it just strong enough that it doesn't wiggle around even when the pump is running full speed.

KoFVHUj.jpg


Between extending the recirc arm and increasing the volume of your batches I am sure you can adapt. Extending boil time means you can't play with first wort hopping though, but that's not the end of the world.

That is a neat idea, I have a similar problem and used a silicone tubing but wasn't smart enough to think of using a copper wire to make it even better. Thanks.
 
I scrubbed the heck out of that copper with Bar Keeper's Friend in case it had any chemicals on it... I hope that was enough to make it food safe!

While the hose trick worked and it was cheap it does not really support my fetish for stainless steel. I am considering asking about a custom part in that "let me make stainless steel parts for you" thread. If we had a couple more takers it would get the price down.........
 
That is a great idea, I was wondering how low the arm went. I bet Colorado Brewing could make up an additional arm for brewing small batches.
 
So I'm really thinking of ordering the 25 gal system. Anymore thoughts out there on why I should or shouldn't? I really think it's a great design and should simplify my brew day. I'm a little concerned about people getting such low efficiencies but as long as the beer comes out good that wouldn't be a deal breaker for me.
 
FWIW with just one batch under my belt... which may not be much...

The 20 gal kettle is functional for a 5 gal batch but I would want some extra reassurance before I got a 25 gal kettle. Maybe Tim can tell you how much volume is under the bottom of the basket. On the 20 gal kettle, it is 4 gal. Any more than that excluded from the grain bed and I could be forced into doing a longer boil just to keep mash volume up.

Though, looking at the Down Under pictures, the basket hangs from the crossbar. You could maybe rig it to hang lower? That would help.

Why the Down Under instead of the Home, unless you aim to use the whole 25 gal sometimes? The 20 gal Nano Home with the cool touchscreen is a couple hundred bucks less than the 25 gal Down Under.
 
Why the Down Under instead of the Home, unless you aim to use the whole 25 gal sometimes? The 20 gal Nano Home with the cool touchscreen is a couple hundred bucks less than the 25 gal Down Under.

I've thought about the touch screen, but I'm worried about the reliability of it. Something about basic controls I like. My dream is to someday open a nano brewery and the 25 gal system would be a great pilot brewing system.

I like the frame design on the Down Under. They are going to modify the frame so I can gravity drain from the kettle into my 30L Speidel Fermenters.

But, you are right about the price difference. And the Nano Home ships free! Not an easy decision.
 
I decided I wanted the touchscreen because I love the idea of automation... because it helps with repeatability, and may save time. Bottom line, I am happy I did it. On my first run, I did a 2-step mash plus mash out... and didn't have to do anything for 1:34. It was glorious.

Beyond mash time and temp steps you can also program in addition timers during the boil. This is not NEARLY as useful. The UI is poor... it only shows you elapsed time, not the time left until the next step. It will beep and flash and print a message for each addition, though.

Mash and boil steps are saved in a recipe, so you can easily repeat a brew. Not sure how many recipes you can have, and you have to page through them one at a time. Not great, not too bad though.

The software is made by CBS and can be upgraded from a computer, which is great... because it has some bugs! Nothing I couldn't work around, though. I'm going to give them a report this weekend. As is, it is functional. There's absolutely room for improvement, though.

The touchscreen itself appears to be industrial gear. I looked it up, and this is probably the guy:

http://unitronicsplc.com/samba-series-samba43/#1451658074249-d6f71763-59ae

They are apparently made for use in factories. It's even IP66 water resistant. That's no guarantee it will last, but it's a big step up from say a cheap Android tablet. These are the same units that go to CBS's commercial customers... anyway, I like having it and I hope it lasts! If it craps out and CBS is out of business, you can probably buy the unit from the PLC manufacturer and install it... but I understand your concerns and share them to a degree. Simpler gadgets tend to last longer.

Regarding Nano Home vs Down Under: tough call for sure. Seems like you can save some real dough with the Home but if that 5 gallons makes a difference, so it goes.

FWIW I had no problems getting wort into the fermenter with the pump, but when I unhooked the whirlpool input I had to pinch the hose and still lost a small splash of wort. It's not elegant, but still pretty easy. A 3-way valve would be a nice upgrade but I'm not yet sure it's worth the money.

Let us know what you decide!
 
Anyone have a link or want to explain how to calibrate the PID? I have the 20 gallon and the PID doesn't have any branding on it. On their downloads page it's a one page PDF that might as well be Greek to me. [emoji16]
 
I have DIY CBS system. How far under the wort level does your recirculation arm go? Is it near the surface or closer to where the grains might settle down? I'm having a difficult time finding the appropriate height to keep stable mash temps and the whirlpool stirring effect.
 
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