First post here! Been lurking for a while and learning a lot so I decided to sign up in hopes of getting some help converting a recipe to extract. The recipe is Two Brother's Resistance IPA, and here is what they emailed me for a 5 gallon recipe:
Mash: 152F for 60 minutes. OG=1.070, FG=1.016
89% Base 2 Row Malt
3% Crystal 10
6% Munich Malt
2% Melanoidin Malt
Hops and Oak aging:
First Wort hop with Chinook 16 IBU
60 minutes left with Centennial 15 IBU
30 minutes left with Chinook 12 IBU
20 minutes left with Centennial 12 IBU
10 minutes left with Columbus 5 IBU
5 minutes left with Simcoe 5 IBU
Dry hop with 2oz each of Simcoe and Centennial per 5 gallons.
Oak age 4 weeks after primary fermentation is complete.
I've been making a recipe spreadsheet based on the equations in John Palmer's book "How To Brew". That is what I used to come up with what I have so far, and here are my questions:
Malt Extract: with an OG of 1.070 in 5 gallons, I need 350 "points" of extract. That is pretty easy, but what extract should I use, liquid or dry, and what color? I was thinking Northern Brewer's Gold LME because it says that it is their "first choice" for IPA's. What is the difference between liquid and dry here? The research I've done seems to indicate that liquid is fine if it is fresh. I will do a full 6 gallon boil and planning on boiling all the extract for 60 minutes. Should I change some of it to a late addition? That is fine if that seems to be the recommendation and I will re-calculate the hop additions to account for the different boil gravity.
Specialty Grains: I was thinking that the Crystal 10 wouldn't be needed because it pretty much comes in the extract, right? So then I came up with 0.8 lbs of Munich and 0.25 lbs of Melanoidin to use for steeping specialty grains. These quantities came from analyzing an all-grain grist of the percentages they said, resulting in a 1.070 OG after 70% efficiency.
Hops: This is where it gets interesting, because they say IBU contribution from each instead of actual weights to use. I used the IBU calcs from Palmer's book to figure out the weights needed for each addition. What I came up with is shown below, assuming mid-range of the published AA values for each type (I'll probably round to the nearest half ounce). All that adds up to 65 IBU, with weights rounded to the nearest half ounce it gives 75 IBU. The actual beer is 70 IBU. I'll be using all fresh 2011 crop whole leaf hops.
First Wort hop with Chinook 16 IBU---------> 0.41 oz (assuming FWH is treated as a 60 min boil)
60 minutes left with Centennial 15 IBU------> 0.44 oz
30 minutes left with Chinook 12 IBU--------> 0.40 oz
20 minutes left with Centennial 12 IBU------> 0.58 oz
10 minutes left with Columbus 5 IBU--------> 0.29 oz
5 minutes left with Simcoe 5 IBU-----------> 0.60 oz
Yeast: They don't say yeast type, but I'm assuming 1056 would be a good start.
Dry hopping: no problem, probably one week.
Oak aging: Research I've done so far says that I would be crazy to oak age for 4 weeks. That makes sense, they are aging hundreds of gallons in giant French Oak Foudres, so they have a lot lower ratio of beer volume in contact with the wood. The problem is that I don't know what to start with. I was thinking 2oz of chips for one week, the same as I'll do for dry hopping.
Thanks!
Mash: 152F for 60 minutes. OG=1.070, FG=1.016
89% Base 2 Row Malt
3% Crystal 10
6% Munich Malt
2% Melanoidin Malt
Hops and Oak aging:
First Wort hop with Chinook 16 IBU
60 minutes left with Centennial 15 IBU
30 minutes left with Chinook 12 IBU
20 minutes left with Centennial 12 IBU
10 minutes left with Columbus 5 IBU
5 minutes left with Simcoe 5 IBU
Dry hop with 2oz each of Simcoe and Centennial per 5 gallons.
Oak age 4 weeks after primary fermentation is complete.
I've been making a recipe spreadsheet based on the equations in John Palmer's book "How To Brew". That is what I used to come up with what I have so far, and here are my questions:
Malt Extract: with an OG of 1.070 in 5 gallons, I need 350 "points" of extract. That is pretty easy, but what extract should I use, liquid or dry, and what color? I was thinking Northern Brewer's Gold LME because it says that it is their "first choice" for IPA's. What is the difference between liquid and dry here? The research I've done seems to indicate that liquid is fine if it is fresh. I will do a full 6 gallon boil and planning on boiling all the extract for 60 minutes. Should I change some of it to a late addition? That is fine if that seems to be the recommendation and I will re-calculate the hop additions to account for the different boil gravity.
Specialty Grains: I was thinking that the Crystal 10 wouldn't be needed because it pretty much comes in the extract, right? So then I came up with 0.8 lbs of Munich and 0.25 lbs of Melanoidin to use for steeping specialty grains. These quantities came from analyzing an all-grain grist of the percentages they said, resulting in a 1.070 OG after 70% efficiency.
Hops: This is where it gets interesting, because they say IBU contribution from each instead of actual weights to use. I used the IBU calcs from Palmer's book to figure out the weights needed for each addition. What I came up with is shown below, assuming mid-range of the published AA values for each type (I'll probably round to the nearest half ounce). All that adds up to 65 IBU, with weights rounded to the nearest half ounce it gives 75 IBU. The actual beer is 70 IBU. I'll be using all fresh 2011 crop whole leaf hops.
First Wort hop with Chinook 16 IBU---------> 0.41 oz (assuming FWH is treated as a 60 min boil)
60 minutes left with Centennial 15 IBU------> 0.44 oz
30 minutes left with Chinook 12 IBU--------> 0.40 oz
20 minutes left with Centennial 12 IBU------> 0.58 oz
10 minutes left with Columbus 5 IBU--------> 0.29 oz
5 minutes left with Simcoe 5 IBU-----------> 0.60 oz
Yeast: They don't say yeast type, but I'm assuming 1056 would be a good start.
Dry hopping: no problem, probably one week.
Oak aging: Research I've done so far says that I would be crazy to oak age for 4 weeks. That makes sense, they are aging hundreds of gallons in giant French Oak Foudres, so they have a lot lower ratio of beer volume in contact with the wood. The problem is that I don't know what to start with. I was thinking 2oz of chips for one week, the same as I'll do for dry hopping.
Thanks!